If we find a desgin flaw, which i dont see it being that. But, if there was, and Pats motor failed DUE to that, then i can not see why we wouldn not take care of that unless you had a s**t ton of miles on it before that happened.

Mark
SBR

 

yes that exactly what i thought, but like i said I do not believe that will happen to his its broke in ,it would of done it already, lets move off this topic! how is your car running? ready to put some beer on it u-vrs-me at track? with stock turbo on mine? I'm up for it when i get t-case back from shep. after i crush you we'll switch cars an i'll beat you in your own car...

 

HAHAHA.. you like to talk! anyways. I maybe parting the car, or selling it as is. we will see.


mark
SBR

 

you sold me the crank, rods and bundled bearings... you would think they would be the correct ones.

 

are you saying that your evo is too much for you to handle, and that your affraid to go heads up against me? thats the way it looks... c-mon my car only makes 300+ a few, ur car made 400+whp you should have it in the bag.... dont be a pine rider

www.Ian@ucantoutTree/60ft/me-mark.com

 

I was talking about the OP's car. But still, I would be more likely to blame the actual builder of the part first, before I would levy blame at someone who I had bought a bundle of parts from.

 

a motor that is suppose to rev as high as 10k should have tolerance in line. the mere fact that this type of thing comes with a 10k redline tag should already suggest that everything needs to be assembled perfectly.

 

so wait a min here. your telling me you would blame manley? {Example}well ok lets say you come to me and i'm a racefuel maker and you design some new formula for race gas that your sure will work, i mix it up/make it the "exact"way you tell me 100% to your spec "and its so post to be say 140octane on your calc and after we tested it, actually only was 100 octane, that it would be my fault..?? Well I'm sorry but i do not agree and i dont believe anyone else will either

 

I am very sorry to see this sort of thing happen. Obviously, it creates considerable inconvenience and expense.

A 2.1L 4 cyl engine making 400bhp is akin to a 4.2L V8 making 800 bhp. Think about what the reciprocating assembly components have to withstand to live with that level of punishment. What would you do in assembling an 800 bhp V8 that is expected to last?

If one is building an engine that is expected to deliver that type of output and turn 8000 rpm, proper torque and clearances with all fasteners and friction surfaces is an absolute must. One can get away with guesstimating with an assembly of a 150hp engine, but that won't work in this case. In no way should building a high hp EVO shortblock be regarded as a casual affair.

When one takes shortblock assembly into his own hands, he assumes responsibility of proper assembly. I strongly suggest verifying potentially critical measurements such as deck height and straightness, block journal straightness(crank straightness as well), piston size and integrity, ring gaps, piston/wall clearance, all bearing journal clearances, and torquing all fasteners in steps and in proper sequence. Just remember that the more power one intends to put through it, the less deviation it will tolerate. Bearing clearance deviations as little as a fraction of a mm are significant. Here is a bit perspective:

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/4380/

and

http://popularhotrodding.com/enginem...e_short_block/

Likewise, I agree with both articles that the best way to measure bearing clearances is with a proper dial-bore indicator, although Plastigauge is cheap and easy.


If one cannot or is otherwise unwilling or inexperienced in blueprinting a shortblock, have it done by someone who can and does verify all of the above. Yes, it costs more, but it costs less in the long run.

 

But what it tends to suggest to those with more money than sense (and there is no shortage of that) is that it's perfectly ok to get out and drive it like it was meant to be spun to 10k rpm, despite the fact that very, very few persons have a turbo large enough to warrant that type of abuse. As we've seen just recently, those who engage in this practice are far more likely to be sorry sooner than later.

 

Actually no, I am thinking the engine was not assembled properly - again, in the OP's case. If I/he was an expert at building race 4G63's, then I would then blame Manley, or whoever.

Okay, stop right there because I have no idea what you are trying to say, or show with your analogy.

 

plastigauge should be the absolute minimum used; it's pretty accurate but does not tell the whole story. If you're spending thousands on a build then you should spend ~$300 on some inexpensive measuring tools that will last a lifetime: 0-6" micrometer set with .0001" resolution, dial bore gauge set, bearing micrometer or ball attachment for conventional mike, inexpensive 0-6" caliper, feeler gauge set, dial indicator and stand. Oh, and a quality torque wrench- not included in the $300. I think that does it. You don't have to buy mitutoyo or starett; the enco brand chinese/taiwanese measuring tools are more than accurate enough.

Rule of thumb is check EVERYTHING and assume nothing is correct out of the box. Once you buy measuring tools you will be surprised with what you get from machine shops and even new parts; I know I was.

 

From what I understand Curt left Slowboy a while ago, I'm not 100% sure but like 99%.

Good luck with the rebuild!

 

Wrong Curt dude. he worked in shipping and had nothing to do with motor builds. The curt we are talking about is Curt Brown, a customer.

Thanks
MARK
SBR

 

We will soon have another motor to judge this on. BTW Mark...how is my build coming along?

Tom