Clutch restrictor removal on Evo 8
Just a little FYI that may have been covered elsewhere, but I didn't notice in this thread: Although the clutch and brake reservoir are combined as one, they are also divided within said container.
So, if you plan on doing this mod, take into consideration that you may be staring at what appears to be a full container, but probably isn't. (The light coating that remains in the reservoir makes this extra deceiving.) That way you don't spend an ungodly amount of time trying this and that, running around town looking for a Mighty Vac, etc... when all you really have to do is dump some more fluid in
This will also allow you to make it to the track on time (to see if this really helps) and prevent you from looking like an idiot in your first post.
So, if you plan on doing this mod, take into consideration that you may be staring at what appears to be a full container, but probably isn't. (The light coating that remains in the reservoir makes this extra deceiving.) That way you don't spend an ungodly amount of time trying this and that, running around town looking for a Mighty Vac, etc... when all you really have to do is dump some more fluid in
This will also allow you to make it to the track on time (to see if this really helps) and prevent you from looking like an idiot in your first post.
Last edited by EvolvedDSM; Jun 27, 2003 at 11:26 PM.
My question is did Mit. do this on purpose to protect something else. Like tranny, diff or the like from failing. I mean easier to blame a clutch failure on driving them blame a tranny or something failing because of all the torque and abuse.
Originally posted by JT-KGY
Clutch and brake use the same reservoir right?
Clutch and brake use the same reservoir right?
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after putting several threads about not taking out the spring, after examining the driveline and clutch system of the evo per owners manual, the spring is not a restrictor but actually makes the clutch self adjusting. as the clutch wears, the decreased clearance is adjusted by the spring and in turn takes more clutch fluid in the slave cylinder. that is why if you are going to replace your clutch you need to bleed the slave cylinder to take out some of the excess fluid due to wear adjustment.
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Originally posted by sblvro
after putting several threads about not taking out the spring, after examining the driveline and clutch system of the evo per owners manual, the spring is not a restrictor but actually makes the clutch self adjusting. as the clutch wears, the decreased clearance is adjusted by the spring and in turn takes more clutch fluid in the slave cylinder. that is why if you are going to replace your clutch you need to bleed the slave cylinder to take out some of the excess fluid due to wear adjustment.
after putting several threads about not taking out the spring, after examining the driveline and clutch system of the evo per owners manual, the spring is not a restrictor but actually makes the clutch self adjusting. as the clutch wears, the decreased clearance is adjusted by the spring and in turn takes more clutch fluid in the slave cylinder. that is why if you are going to replace your clutch you need to bleed the slave cylinder to take out some of the excess fluid due to wear adjustment.
All the adjustment is done in the clutch master cylinder.
Originally posted by sblvro
after putting several threads about not taking out the spring, after examining the driveline and clutch system of the evo per owners manual, the spring is not a restrictor but actually makes the clutch self adjusting. as the clutch wears, the decreased clearance is adjusted by the spring and in turn takes more clutch fluid in the slave cylinder. that is why if you are going to replace your clutch you need to bleed the slave cylinder to take out some of the excess fluid due to wear adjustment.
after putting several threads about not taking out the spring, after examining the driveline and clutch system of the evo per owners manual, the spring is not a restrictor but actually makes the clutch self adjusting. as the clutch wears, the decreased clearance is adjusted by the spring and in turn takes more clutch fluid in the slave cylinder. that is why if you are going to replace your clutch you need to bleed the slave cylinder to take out some of the excess fluid due to wear adjustment.
...simple mechanics when your looking at it sitting in the slave cylinder... fluid control.
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Originally posted by Zeus
wrong answer... ...simple mechanics when your looking at it sitting in the slave cylinder... fluid control.
wrong answer...
...simple mechanics when your looking at it sitting in the slave cylinder... fluid control.
hehe, simple mechanics then you should have figured it out then. the slave cylinder has a spring inside which expands the slave cylinder when there is wear in the clutch. since the slave cylinder takes the new volume of the clutch wear, and since the fluid is not compressible then it makes the clutch self-adjusting unlike the cable types. and yes you can also adjust the clutch at the clevis pin area but that is static adjustment. the internal slave spring allows self adjustment.
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Originally posted by sblvro
hehe, simple mechanics then you should have figured it out then. the slave cylinder has a spring inside which expands the slave cylinder when there is wear in the clutch. since the slave cylinder takes the new volume of the clutch wear, and since the fluid is not compressible then it makes the clutch self-adjusting unlike the cable types. and yes you can also adjust the clutch at the clevis pin area but that is static adjustment. the internal slave spring allows self adjustment.
hehe, simple mechanics then you should have figured it out then. the slave cylinder has a spring inside which expands the slave cylinder when there is wear in the clutch. since the slave cylinder takes the new volume of the clutch wear, and since the fluid is not compressible then it makes the clutch self-adjusting unlike the cable types. and yes you can also adjust the clutch at the clevis pin area but that is static adjustment. the internal slave spring allows self adjustment.
You are talking about the one that pushes the slave cylinder piston out. Completely different. And yea, removing THAT spring would be idiotic!
Originally posted by sblvro
hehe, simple mechanics then you should have figured it out then. the slave cylinder has a spring inside which expands the slave cylinder when there is wear in the clutch. since the slave cylinder takes the new volume of the clutch wear, and since the fluid is not compressible then it makes the clutch self-adjusting unlike the cable types. and yes you can also adjust the clutch at the clevis pin area but that is static adjustment. the internal slave spring allows self adjustment.
hehe, simple mechanics then you should have figured it out then. the slave cylinder has a spring inside which expands the slave cylinder when there is wear in the clutch. since the slave cylinder takes the new volume of the clutch wear, and since the fluid is not compressible then it makes the clutch self-adjusting unlike the cable types. and yes you can also adjust the clutch at the clevis pin area but that is static adjustment. the internal slave spring allows self adjustment.
I have a question
Shuold i remove the restrictor if i have my stage 3 clutchmaster kit install. Or shuold i leave the restrictor there shince my aftermarket clutch grab 10x better?
Shince my warrentee just went to Hell thanks to my new and improved clutch,i just think its a good idea to avoid damging my tranfer case or tranny itself. What do you guys think?
Well at any point i still have 500 miles to break in my new clucth befor i have to decide if i shuold remove it or not.Till then im going to baby my clutch like if the dam thing is made out of plastic
Shuold i remove the restrictor if i have my stage 3 clutchmaster kit install. Or shuold i leave the restrictor there shince my aftermarket clutch grab 10x better?
Shince my warrentee just went to Hell thanks to my new and improved clutch,i just think its a good idea to avoid damging my tranfer case or tranny itself. What do you guys think?
Well at any point i still have 500 miles to break in my new clucth befor i have to decide if i shuold remove it or not.Till then im going to baby my clutch like if the dam thing is made out of plastic
So.. if I remove the restrictor.. I wont have to bleed the brakes
as well right?.. Though I assume I will need to fill up the fluid
from the same spot in the engine bay...
(Looking through the manual now...)
It seems crazy to me that manufacture expect any of EVOs
clutches last longer than 10k.... ?? I assume that slippage will
happen when ever you shift at high rpm (in any gear)??
It really doesn't matter if you launch the car or not... The only
way to prolong clutch life is to shift at low rpms at all times....
as well right?.. Though I assume I will need to fill up the fluid
from the same spot in the engine bay...
(Looking through the manual now...)
It seems crazy to me that manufacture expect any of EVOs
clutches last longer than 10k.... ?? I assume that slippage will
happen when ever you shift at high rpm (in any gear)??
It really doesn't matter if you launch the car or not... The only
way to prolong clutch life is to shift at low rpms at all times....