No you won't have to bleed the brakes but make sure you keep the master cylinder slightly above the full mark when bleeding the clutch afterwards. The resevoir is decieving and it can go dry and look full. If you have the cap off, you will normally hear it gurgle if there is not enough fluid in it, which is too late and you just reintroduced air in the system.

 

ok i'm dumb i guess, but now that i took it out, the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor, and whala, nothing doesn't come back up, i've tried pumping it to no avail. there is fluid .....HELP!

 

and yes i did bleed it

 

tech manual strongly cautions against pumping the clutch pedal while bleeding. Clutch stays down, only because of the air in the line. Just pull the pedal up manually and then depress once and hold to bleed in the normal fashion. Repeat as necessary to restore normal pedal actuation and feel.

You won,t have this problem if you use a manufactured vacuum bleeder or improvise one by running a hose from the bleeder to a vacuum line from the intake system. Just keep an eye on the section of the resevoir that is partitioned for the clutch fluid (area between 12:00 and 2:00 as you face the firewall). I couldn't figure out why I ccouldn't get fluid through the bleeder hose until I realized that the clutch section of the resevoir was empty. I was monitoring the level from the front of the resevoir which is only used for brakes. After I noticed the problem, the procedure worked as expected.

 

yeah i know where its at problem is you can't "vacuum it out" without putting the air box back on....because the engine won't start

 

nothing?

 

Have you added fluid to the reservoir? While it appears to be full from the front, the divider makes it deceiving. I ran into this problem--the front (brake) was full, but the back (clutch) was empty. Pour some fluid in and bleed again.

 

Anyone in the WEst LA area want to help a brother out with this mod ? I have no facilites and would love to do this cause my clutch is a pain in the ***. Want to get the stainless braided line o nthere at the same time.

 

i checked back there i actually removed the screen and looked and it is the same level as the front. i even tested it, i opened the bleed valve and then depressed the pedal, and fluid shot out.....

i mean if you were to even BLOW on the clutch pedal it will drop straight to the floor and you have to pull it up by hand...

i've tried gravity bleeding and pressure bleeding and when i pressure bleed a minute amount of air comes out..

now i called my father, he's an ASE master mechanic, that's why i'm very comfortable doing this stuff...he taught me alot, and he told me it could take about 40-50 times to get the pressure built up. and still nothing, i've made sure both copper rings are assembled and the only thing that is taken out is the restrictor.

 

...you say pedal stays down... who's depressing the pedal while you open an close the bleeder valve... or vise versa? Do they know what they are doing? Sounds stupid, but my 11 year old depressed (and lifted on the first few strokes) the pedal for me. It took a little coaching for him to understand the timing of the "UP... DOWN... UP... DOWN..." if you know what I mean.

 

a friend of mine...


we put the pedal down, open the valve, close the valve pedal up, pedal down, open the valve, and so on....

nothing

 

Use a mity-vac on the bleed nipple to pull the fluid and air out. You may also have to bleed the master cylinder and slave cylinder.

To bleed the master:
0. Put a mity-vac on the bleed line with a good vacuum on it.
1. disconnect the master cylinder plunger from the clutch pedal assy
2. Fill the reservoir all the way, and have someone on hand to fill it.
3. Open the bleed.
4. press in on the master cylinder plunger until it hits bottom.
5. Close the bleed.
6. Let the plunger back out SLOWLY!
7. Repeat from 2 a couple more times.
8. Reconnect the plunger to the clutch pedal.

Then bleed the clutch line all the way as you normally would.

Then bleed the slave cylinder.
0. Put a mity vac on the bleed line with a good vacuum on it.
1. Push the slave cylinder plunger all the way back into the slave cylinder housing.
2. Open the bleed.
3. press in on the clutch pedal.
4. Quickly, with the pedal pressed in, tighten the bleed.
5. Let the clutch pedal out SLOWLY!
6. Repeat from 2 a couple times.

Then again, bleed the clutch line all the way as you normally would.

The mity-vac prevents air from getting back into the line.

That will get you a rock-solid clutch hydraulic system.

 

I was asked what the plungers are. Basically the master and slave cylinder have pistons in them that move in and out. When the master cylinder piston moves into the cylinder, it pushes hydraulic fluid out and pressurizes the line. The slave cylinder piston then pushes out.

I've been using plunger and piston interchangably. They are the same thing.

The reason you have to disconnect the rod that goes into the master cylinder from the clutch pedal (under the dash) is that the normal clutch pedal movement will not push the piston all the way into the master cyl so it bottoms out. You want to bottom it out so it gets ALL the air out of the master cylinder.

 

listen to him...

 

is this info in the tech manual, as to where to access these items?