buschar/warrtalon stage one- car wont start- help?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 30
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From: SoCal, CA
If the code is wrong wouldn't dyno flash pick up on that? In fact, on the second trip back to dyno flash I asked al if the codes could be a problem. Is there anyway to tell if that is what is happening.
Yes, he has to do these all the time, so he knows the code is important, and that would probably be the first think he'd check.
We can't tell now, because you don't have your original stock ROM saved, but he should have it. Hmm, come to think of it, since it wasn't an e-flash, then he wouldn't have had to touch the immobilizer code.
We can't tell now, because you don't have your original stock ROM saved, but he should have it. Hmm, come to think of it, since it wasn't an e-flash, then he wouldn't have had to touch the immobilizer code.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: SoCal, CA
just to add, the car was driven for a few hundred light miles before the computer was sent it- so pretty much everything is pointing at ecu trouble ( it worked ok when i pulled it?) but al says it ok......but the car doesnt start..... another day without my car 
The car is cranking over, but no spark. the fuses are OK under the dash? I had this problem with the cam angle sensor wire getting pinched when they put my motor back in. I don't know if that could happen with you. Look for a blue wire by the cam cover, and the front of the engine. I also had the car quit while autoxing, out of the blue. It was a fuse on my starter. blew the fuseable link by the starter. If it is NONE of those, I am sorry, I am out of guesses!
Originally Posted by timzcat
Start by checking the crank sensor connector at the back of the cam cover on the passenger side. Did you unplug anything when you were installing the parts???
We must think alike. I am just going by my personal expierences on when this type "issue" happened to me. I don't know where the blue wire goes to (which was the one of the 3 I had pinched in half) but it is close to the camcover (bottom) and snakes its way up to the top/front part of the motor.
I got NO SPARK/ NO FUEL with that one.
Oh yeah you jsut reminded me of something else.
Are you using any anti-foulers? The O2 wires can and will short on the heat shield by the cat.
This blows the ECU fuse and all sensors so the car will not start.
Are you using any anti-foulers? The O2 wires can and will short on the heat shield by the cat.
This blows the ECU fuse and all sensors so the car will not start.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: SoCal, CA
no anti foulers ( i assume those are for no cats?) but i am still running a cat so nothing is unplugged. i will re check the cam sensors ect, but like i mentioned, the car had a few hundred miles ( ran like normal), i pulled it into the driveway, undid the battery, yanked the ecu, got it back and now its not starting. thanks again for everyones ideas.
I would say disconnect the battery, pull the ECU connectors again, ground strap also, then re install it, make sure all the connectors are pushed in securely, and make sure the ground strap is tight. It has to be something in the box. I know this sounds "dumb" or obvious, but I would try it again. make sure none of the pins are bent in the ECU, or that any of the wires in the connectors have wiggled loose.
A few points - the mail in flashing has proven very reliable over hundreds and hundreds of ecus - this condition is very rare situation
I have had 2 or 3 that got smashed in shipping due to poor packaging and I have always replaced them no questions asked
In your case I ran your ecu in 3 othere evos and it runs fine
As for your particular case I would say that either dicsoncecting and reconnecting your battery some fuse or link got burnt from the voltage spike or
Since the ecu runs fine in other evos which i have tested somehow the imbolizer or key code may have been corrupted
I would take the car to a dealer and have them try and resynch the imobilzer and see if that resolves the problem and if not have them diagnose what is the cause
IF its anything on my end that caused this I will provide you with a replacement ecu.
I am sorry that you are having frustrations but I think you will find it is something minor
I have had 2 or 3 that got smashed in shipping due to poor packaging and I have always replaced them no questions asked
In your case I ran your ecu in 3 othere evos and it runs fine
As for your particular case I would say that either dicsoncecting and reconnecting your battery some fuse or link got burnt from the voltage spike or
Since the ecu runs fine in other evos which i have tested somehow the imbolizer or key code may have been corrupted
I would take the car to a dealer and have them try and resynch the imobilzer and see if that resolves the problem and if not have them diagnose what is the cause
IF its anything on my end that caused this I will provide you with a replacement ecu.
I am sorry that you are having frustrations but I think you will find it is something minor
Last edited by DynoFlash; Jul 18, 2006 at 09:21 AM.
