all the 4G64 blocks are cast iron. the block in the galant from 99-03 and eclipse from 00-05 is the same block. its all the same casting, all internals same part #'s. The EVO blocks are even the same casting. They make an EVO block by casting a 4G64 block, decking it shorter, changing the size of the water pump opening, add squirters and relocate some of the bolt holes for the accessories. Perfect example is the 4G64 blocks have a hole for a knock sensor, yet no mitsu 2.4 motor has ever had a knock sensor from the factory. Oil squirters are not required. They are a luxury, not a neccessity(sp?) Both magnus and slowboy sell 2.4 and 2.1's using the 64 blocks and none of them come standard with squirters.

 

I am not going to use the oil squirters on my motor.

 

Why would anyone in their right mind put squirters in a block that is using forged pistons and rods?

 

You'll be fine to rev the engine to 8k on stock length rods, however regardless of how high you rev 2.3/2.4 bearings, especially the thrust bearings, take a beating. One of the best things you can do when building your motor is to try to find the lightest combination of rods, pistons, pins, possible.

 

I *think* the 2000-up Hyundai Sonata 2.4 belt may also work.


Adjustable 4g63 cam gears advanaced 1/2 a tooth on both sides should put all your timing back into spec by my best calculation.

 

If I do a 2.4 liter block I will be having squirters installed. They provide a crap load of piston cooling.... cool pistons allow for a more agressive tune weather they are forged units or not.

Keith

 

From what I heard....Curt Brown was not using them (oil squirters) on his motor and there are a few others with some high HP 2.1L from SBR that do not use them either. Its about peace of mind I suppose.

I can definately agree that more cooling will come from the squirters....but how much more is the real question. I cant even begin to guess on that answer. I dont have enough info either way.

 

Just an FYI, the Mahle pistons are by far the lightest piston I have found that makes a shelf stocking piston for the 2.3l EVO application, they are about 80 grams lighter than a Wiseco piston, which is VERY light!

If someone would be interested, I can grab a bunch of rods/ pistons and throw them on the scale and report back?

Mike Huml

 

The down side to oil squirters is it robs oil from the main oil galley, which takes oil away form a few very important places

I have never used oil squirters in any of my personal motors since 1998.

With that being said, I am not saying your average street/strip car should be without them, but they are not needed in the overall scheme of things.

Mike Huml

 

They provide cooling which really isn't needed for forged pistons. If you want cooling that bad opt for a rifle fed rod or have the tops of the pistons Swaintech Gold coated.

Also, cooler pistons do nothing in the way of allowing a more aggressive tune. The only thing that would cause a piston to deter a more aggressive tune is if your getting pre-ignition due to a sharp edge or something else on the valve reliefs.

Oil squirters, especially in 4g63's, have a problem at times of sticking open or shut. When you add a squirter your really adding another potential problem to your engine.

I've been building 4g63 stroker motors since 1996, back when we use to stock pistons and flycut down the tops of the pistons. Believe me when I say, avoid at all cost adding any more potential issues to your engine.

 

True. There are better ways to keep a piston cool if that is what you want to do.

1998? Ha! I've got you beat by two years.

 

In 1996 I was still working on my *gasp* Integra GSR, so you surely have me beat

(Don't hold this against me) cause in 1991 I drove a Renault Fuego 1.6l turbo... YEA YEA!

Mike Huml

 

This has been a long debated topic. Some say the oil squirters complicate things, and many even blame the 2G DSM crankwalk issue on them. Overall I think it is a very good idea to have them installed, however if you just like going in straight lines, they really aren't needed. If you do any kind of high performance driving where the engine is constantly in the red for extended periods of time, the pistons get hotter than hell (even if they are forged). In this type of environment, the squirters help with the endurance and reliability of the engine.

 

Interesting. Do you have any information to back this up?

I've been roadracing my latest stroker creation for nearly 2 years at a dyno'ed ~450hp level and daily driving it just as long. I have NEVER once had a piston heat related problem.

Every stroker motor that I have ever built or help built (upwards of 25 since), with the exception of the first one, never had oil squirters either. In fact, most builders I know including myself opt for the NA blocks over the Turbo blocks for this reason.

Every failure I've ever seen related to the stroker has been at the bearings due to the pounding they take nothing at the pistons. If you've found just one that has died due to piston heat please post info.

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Mike H, if you would, please weigh some of the rods you have in stock. I'm pretty sure that the Scat or Eagles are going to end up being the lightest. But I am most curious about the A beam and I beam rods. I think the Carillo rod is going to end up being the lightest but I would like to have that verified...Thanks!

 

I do not have any hardcore data or evidence, but the engineers who developed these engines most likely do. Yes you said you have done some road racing, and the failures your engine has experienced were bearing related not piston related. Oil squirters are there not only help prevent piston failure, but premature piston wear.

If you apply some basic principles of thermodynamics, it is easy to see that oil squirters do indeed help prevent engine wear/failure.

No one here can deny that oil squirters indeed drop the operating temperatures of the pistons. The oil splashes the bottom of the pistons and the heat is transferred from the pistons to the engine oil. Because the pistons get this nice constant flow of oil cooling them down at all times, the piston, wrist pin, and even the top of the connecting rod operate at cooler temperatures than they would be if no oil squirter were in place. OK, so what? You say to yourself "big deal". They run at cooler temperature. I cannot prove how much this temperature differential is, but believe me, it is there. Since it is there, remember from your high school physics class the concepts of thermal expansion? The hotter something gets, the more it expands. If no oil squirters were in place, the piston, wrist pin, piston rings, and connecting rod are all going to operate at a higher temperature, and therefore, expand to a larger physical size. This expansion causes excessive wear on the rings, piston skirts, cylinder walls, and on the connecting rod. While a total engine failure may not result, other nasty things (such as bad compression or excessive oil consumption) may show their face. So you see, the oil squirters help "regulate" the temperature of the pistons (and related components) and by doing so they also regulate the size of all related components. There are many, many variables involved in this process, because of every metal alloy has a different thermal coefficient of expansion (i.e. your cast iron block will expand at a different rate than your forged crank, pistons and rods, and aluminum head). It is almost undeniable that oil squirters increase engine longevity (if they don't clog up and fail) however by how much they help is very debatable.