Intake questions
Ok guys i'm new to this, and i have been looking at all of your posts on different intakes and temperature changes, but i wanna know which is the best intake right now...
I hear that the AEM V2 is pretty good, but i wanna know your guys input
PLEASE HELP SOON...
I hear that the AEM V2 is pretty good, but i wanna know your guys input
Probably one your best choices would be a SRI with a hood duct. It's cold air through the duct straight to the filter with very little distance to travel. CAI's just have farther to travel to get that cold air into the engine. Any kind of filter or SR would be your best bet IMO. Good luck with your decision.
Re: Intake questions
Originally posted by cecilia
Ok guys i'm new to this, and i have been looking at all of your posts on different intakes and temperature changes, but i wanna know which is the best intake right now...
I hear that the AEM V2 is pretty good, but i wanna know your guys input
PLEASE HELP SOON...
Ok guys i'm new to this, and i have been looking at all of your posts on different intakes and temperature changes, but i wanna know which is the best intake right now...
I hear that the AEM V2 is pretty good, but i wanna know your guys input
Why the rush? I think it would be better to wait a bit and see what becomes available for our cars in the not too distant future.... Better wait and get something that works well and fits well than to rush and get something unproven or perhaps unnecessary or harmful...........
I chose Buschurs intake. It's simple to install and only 1 peice, the filter. It bolts right up. 80 bucks. It sounds kick *** too. The only bad part is the rubber tubing from the turbo to the filter will need to be replaced with a hard pipe. That is why it is cheap. Others I'm sure will come with the hardpipe upgrade but will cost more of course.
I have the Buschur, but to be totally honest with you, I've seen no difference in performance whatsoever.. if you like the sound, its worth the 80 beans.. but personally I hate the noise it makes.. I have other supporting mods that would potentially benefit more from the air filter. Be careful with that primary piping.. I heard that some products may actually be more restrictive than the stock rubber pipe.. If your unsure, just get a K&N Panel filter for the stock airbox, its cheap enough to toss aside when the jury is finally out..
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I was running againast a wheun's evo at New England drag last week, he has the buschur intake installed, I had the stock airbox, we both had a couple of runs. And we had 1 run together, I beat him by .2 second. Neither of us had a very good night, both of our ETs at 14.0(just can't get the launch right!
) So, besides the cool factor, I don't see much of a difference with or without the filter.....
) So, besides the cool factor, I don't see much of a difference with or without the filter.....
Thats kind of what I expected.. I did hook up my laptop to the car's obd2 port on a cooler night, and discovered there was only a few degree difference between the two.. On a really hot day it may be more significant though..
Originally posted by stvbreal
I chose Buschurs intake. It's simple to install and only 1 peice, the filter. It bolts right up. 80 bucks. It sounds kick *** too. The only bad part is the rubber tubing from the turbo to the filter will need to be replaced with a hard pipe. That is why it is cheap. Others I'm sure will come with the hardpipe upgrade but will cost more of course.
I chose Buschurs intake. It's simple to install and only 1 peice, the filter. It bolts right up. 80 bucks. It sounds kick *** too. The only bad part is the rubber tubing from the turbo to the filter will need to be replaced with a hard pipe. That is why it is cheap. Others I'm sure will come with the hardpipe upgrade but will cost more of course.
Why does it have to be replaced?
Its actually not exactly rubber.. Its the black intermediate pipe that goes between the air filter (not including the MAF sensor) and the turbo inlet.. Its not pretty, but it works.. It doesnt have to be replaced..
The theory about using hard pipe over that one is if you were to look on the inside of the pipe.. a hard pipe would(should) be larger diameter, will not distort for any reason like rubber/plastic could, and the stock part may have surfaces on the inside that could contribute to turbulence or restriction..
Now with that said.. Its not currently necessary to replace that portion, the jury is still out on the gains of replacing it. Some have reported no difference, some have reported losses in power for one reason or another.. and some have (and ultimately will) report gains..
Part of the problem with being an "Early adopter" of speed parts is not everything is proven yet.. Or even works.. and we are actually beta testing alot of these things.. In the end, the people who try these things may end up wasting a little money in the pursuit of more horsepower because we will discard the stuff that doesn't work. However in the end, it helps the entire industry because our experiments end up being the products that are "tried and true" commonplace modifications that people will use in the future.
The theory about using hard pipe over that one is if you were to look on the inside of the pipe.. a hard pipe would(should) be larger diameter, will not distort for any reason like rubber/plastic could, and the stock part may have surfaces on the inside that could contribute to turbulence or restriction..
Now with that said.. Its not currently necessary to replace that portion, the jury is still out on the gains of replacing it. Some have reported no difference, some have reported losses in power for one reason or another.. and some have (and ultimately will) report gains..
Part of the problem with being an "Early adopter" of speed parts is not everything is proven yet.. Or even works.. and we are actually beta testing alot of these things.. In the end, the people who try these things may end up wasting a little money in the pursuit of more horsepower because we will discard the stuff that doesn't work. However in the end, it helps the entire industry because our experiments end up being the products that are "tried and true" commonplace modifications that people will use in the future.
Last edited by MalibuJack; May 2, 2003 at 04:04 PM.
Originally posted by MalibuJack
Its actually not exactly rubber.. Its the black intermediate pipe that goes between the air filter (not including the MAF sensor) and the turbo inlet.. Its not pretty, but it works.. It doesnt have to be replaced..
The theory about using hard pipe over that one is if you were to look on the inside of the pipe.. a hard pipe would(should) be larger diameter, will not distort for any reason like rubber/plastic could, and the stock part may have surfaces on the inside that could contribute to turbulence or restriction..
Now with that said.. Its not currently necessary to replace that portion, the jury is still out on the gains of replacing it. Some have reported no difference, some have reported losses in power for one reason or another.. and some have (and ultimately will) report gains..
Part of the problem with being an "Early adopter" of speed parts is not everything is proven yet.. Or even works.. and we are actually beta testing alot of these things.. In the end, the people who try these things may end up wasting a little money in the pursuit of more horsepower because we will discard the stuff that doesn't work. However in the end, it helps the entire industry because our experiments end up being the products that are "tried and true" commonplace modifications that people will use in the future.
Its actually not exactly rubber.. Its the black intermediate pipe that goes between the air filter (not including the MAF sensor) and the turbo inlet.. Its not pretty, but it works.. It doesnt have to be replaced..
The theory about using hard pipe over that one is if you were to look on the inside of the pipe.. a hard pipe would(should) be larger diameter, will not distort for any reason like rubber/plastic could, and the stock part may have surfaces on the inside that could contribute to turbulence or restriction..
Now with that said.. Its not currently necessary to replace that portion, the jury is still out on the gains of replacing it. Some have reported no difference, some have reported losses in power for one reason or another.. and some have (and ultimately will) report gains..
Part of the problem with being an "Early adopter" of speed parts is not everything is proven yet.. Or even works.. and we are actually beta testing alot of these things.. In the end, the people who try these things may end up wasting a little money in the pursuit of more horsepower because we will discard the stuff that doesn't work. However in the end, it helps the entire industry because our experiments end up being the products that are "tried and true" commonplace modifications that people will use in the future.
I guess I helped pay for the research and development by purchasing the Buschur unit for $80.
One more question for whoever.
Am I the only one who thought of leaving the stock plastic duct in the car for cool air direction to the cone filter? It must help out at least a little bit. It at least creates a little cold air pressure under the hood near the cone. It may not be perfect but it is already there.
Yah, I made a small aluminum guide and bracket to hold the air filter, and the OE duct in place so air will pass over the filter.. but to tell you the truth, it didn't effect temps much, if you want it to function, it really should be a closed box so it can suck air from the outside..
corect me if i am wrong, but a cold air intake will do nothing for on an EVO...?
the intake charge is going to get heated anyhow, and then cooled only after the fact... right...?
what's the part number for the K&N drop in...?
the intake charge is going to get heated anyhow, and then cooled only after the fact... right...?
what's the part number for the K&N drop in...?
Your question is one that will open a can of worms.. Some feel that it will be a benefit.. others think it is a wash.. My personal feeling on it is an open element air filter, and the lower restrictions and whatnot, outweighed the slight difference in temps, and ultimately, after I did log my intake temp in the OBD2, it was such a small difference that it comes down to personal preference or money.. get what you like, whether it sounds good, looks good, or whatnot.. or wait it out until there are more definitive dyno tests out there.. Drop a K&N filter in the stock box until there's more info.. If you like the whoosh sound, get the open filter.. It really isn't hurting anything..




