which stroker kit would you guys go with??
which stroker kit would you guys go with??
Ive been really considering going with a 2.3l stroker. I have checked out ams and the sbr kits. They both look very similar and i know there are lots of fast cars running both kits. Are there any notable differences between the two, or are they pretty much the same?
or.. is it recomended to buy a pre assembled block?
or.. is it recomended to buy a pre assembled block?
Originally Posted by smokedmustang
Pre assembled AMS stroker, don't pass go until you get that one!
What turbo are you going to hang off of it??
If you are 100% confident that you can build the motor, then you will save about 1200 + the shipping of your block.
Personally i would go with AMS or Buschur. When that time comes around for me i will go with the AMS stroker just because they are close and i can just disassemble everything and bring the block to AMS to build the motor.
Personally i would go with AMS or Buschur. When that time comes around for me i will go with the AMS stroker just because they are close and i can just disassemble everything and bring the block to AMS to build the motor.
Trending Topics
i didnt check the buschur one yet, so ill go look into that. As for putting it all together, i have a local shop (full function) that is real good at building 4g63s.. so that shouldnt be an issue.
It depends on your goals..
If you like to keep cost down go with a 4G64 crank, some cheep rods and pistons. Balance everything and step up to 85.5mm cylinder diameter. That will give you ~2.25l and a 100mm stroke for close to nothing.
Next if you like all other Americans like to have the largest displacement possible you can get a custom crank with a 102mm stroke, some nice Carillo H-beam rods and good CP pistons. For example you can order 102mm cranks from Eagle, Crower and Doug kiddy. This will give you a little bit more than 2.3l depending on cylinder size. It can be a mid price to high price project (Doug Kiddy is very expensive but one of the best out there).
My choice would be (and is) JUN 2.2l kit. It's very expensive with a retail at $6500 but you get it all! Billet steel crank with 88mm stroke, light pistons and rods made for reving. This is the kit many racers in Japan uses.
Just below JUN comes TOMEI, they have the same stuff but with a bit easier design and not so much R&D as JUN. It's also a 2.2l kit with billet crank, 88mm stroke and so. I know my friend Jeff over at http://www.500WHP.com can get this at a good price.
All abow choices uses your stock block with some machining.
There is also the 4G64 block conversion that RnR have but that's another story.
Remember: The longer stroke, the bigger displacement, the less you can rev.
High HP = High rev = Harder to drive on the street.
The best (according to R&N) displacement/rev is 2.2l
If you like to keep cost down go with a 4G64 crank, some cheep rods and pistons. Balance everything and step up to 85.5mm cylinder diameter. That will give you ~2.25l and a 100mm stroke for close to nothing.
Next if you like all other Americans like to have the largest displacement possible you can get a custom crank with a 102mm stroke, some nice Carillo H-beam rods and good CP pistons. For example you can order 102mm cranks from Eagle, Crower and Doug kiddy. This will give you a little bit more than 2.3l depending on cylinder size. It can be a mid price to high price project (Doug Kiddy is very expensive but one of the best out there).
My choice would be (and is) JUN 2.2l kit. It's very expensive with a retail at $6500 but you get it all! Billet steel crank with 88mm stroke, light pistons and rods made for reving. This is the kit many racers in Japan uses.
Just below JUN comes TOMEI, they have the same stuff but with a bit easier design and not so much R&D as JUN. It's also a 2.2l kit with billet crank, 88mm stroke and so. I know my friend Jeff over at http://www.500WHP.com can get this at a good price.
All abow choices uses your stock block with some machining.
There is also the 4G64 block conversion that RnR have but that's another story.
Remember: The longer stroke, the bigger displacement, the less you can rev.
High HP = High rev = Harder to drive on the street.
The best (according to R&N) displacement/rev is 2.2l
Last edited by ZyBeR; Aug 24, 2006 at 06:10 AM.
Originally Posted by Reine
Guys.... If you want to play with the big boys, there is only JUN...
For the average joe i say go with AMS or Buschur's stroker kits. Can't go wrong either way.
We actually have a stroker kit that we pieced together. If you have a good machine shop and can afford the downtime of your car it would be cheaper to rebuild your motor. Mitsu charges a arm and a leg for a empty block.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...it-p-2624.html
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop...it-p-2624.html
Originally Posted by Reine
High HP = High rev = Harder to drive on the street.
and correct me if im wrong (which could be) but the Highest hp evo right now is using a stroke'd 4g63?
EDIT dont get me wrong i know most the highest hp Evo's are destroked evo's but not all of them is all i'm saying
Last edited by Rcebowl; Aug 24, 2006 at 03:35 PM.



