All I simply stated that my car does not have any of the "normal" problems associated with the VTA BOVs. Such as stalling, poor idle, etc. Again, if you re read my post, you'll see that I never said that VTA is the way to go, all I simply said that it works for others, not all.

Do I track my car? No. Why the hell would that matter?

While I do admit that this is the first FI vehicle I have owned, and there is much for me to learn, yet to tell people that they don't know if their own car is running right is absurd.
I planned on running a recir. BOV in the future after everything I had read on the boards regarding VTA, but on the same token, I have not had any issues w/ my VTA, hence the reason I still run it.

 

If VTA is not giving u stalling or idle problems it doesnt mean yr car is running fine, u have MAF that calculates metered air and yet u r venting it out to the atmosphere, it will just make yr car run rich whenever u shift!

not that it will damage yr engine, but like warrtalon said.. yr car is not running at its best!

 

That I can accept, I may just go recirc. just to see the said differences. Again, in my first post I never gave VTA the thumbs up.....just that it sometimes works is all.

 

It doesn't matter if you give it the thumbs up. It's posts like yours from uninformed/uneducated Evo noobs that make other uninformed/uneducated Evo noobs think it's ok to go ahead and buy that name brand blingathon VTA BOV. It's a major problem we have in the Evo community, especially with all the Honda ricer converts and Sport Compact Car readers who finally found a way to afford an Evo.

You don't race, so you have no idea if the car really performs well. You just drive around doing nothing with your Evo and think it's ok, when we know for a fact that it's not. Symptoms or not, it's not running optimally. Why did you even pay for the BOV in the first place if you're not even using the car and don't care how well it runs? That's the part that baffles me. You could have saved your self $200+, stayed on the stock BOV, and never known the difference...

 

Are you just trying to start sh*t? Re read my posts, I never once said there were ANY benefits to running VTA, just that I did not have any problems with it. When the hell did I go tell everyone to VTA? People make their own choices, and if someone chooses to take advice online, there are other issues that need to addressed. And I suppose you knew everything about the Evo when you bought yours?

And since when do you have to race your Evo if you own one?

What baffles me even more, is that I agreed w/ you that the VTA may not have the car run at it's best, yet you continue to post **** mincing my words.

Your knowledge is always masked by your arrogance. Give it a rest.

 

would have said the same thing but clay beat me to it.

go get em bro

 

Well said
I guess some people need to put others down to make them feel better and to make them feel "powerful." I'm not an expert, I don't know everything or even close, I don't race and I'm not on a cover of a magazine so I guess my opinion is not valued here either. Oh well... lol

 

Take it from me man you don't want to do it. I had mine VTA even with an EIDS. My car still ran rich. I had flames coming out of the tailpipe and everything. Looked cool, till it melted part of the rear bumper. Then when I threw the stock cat back on it completely ruined the element and I had a bunch of pieces clogging up my exhaust. could have done alot of damage if I hadnt pulled apart my exhaust and checked it out. Its just not worth it. Yeah, it sounds cool or whatever, but it does get old and it does hurt. I just sold my HKS SSQV and EIDS this morning, going back to recirc FTW!

 

I had always heard that cars with VTA bovs can be tuned to function correctly...but this was on subarus. is this not the case with the Evo? Or are the engine management tools lacking, short of a standalone unit?

 

You will never get a MAF application to run correctly with a VTA BOV, if the car doesn't have a MAF, or the MAF is located AFTER the blowoff valve then that is the only time it doesnt matter.

It just happens to be that the design of the HKS SSQV is a little different than most, and it will idle a bit better than others because its not partially open at idle always venting.

Unfortunately the amount of spring tension required to get the car to idle okay and not stall frequently, will directly lead to compressor surge ultimately ending the life of your turbo early... But The sound is worth damaging the turbo right?

Someone wanted an answer why... this is the answer.. The metering portion makes the car run poorly, but the damage is caused by the compromises you make just to get the car to run "Good enough" when a proper recirculation setup is the way to go.

I still cant figure out why these threads still keep turning up though..

Hondas can do it because their speed density, and the guys doing it correctly on an EVO have either Speed density, or a blowthrough MAF.. expensive options if you just want to VTA...

 

You're missing the entire point. I already said it doesn't matter if you are PROMOTING VTA or not. What I'm saying is that you came in here and said RUNNING VTA IS FINE ON YOUR CAR. What happens is some noob goes to some other noob and says, "Well, so-and-so said it ran fine on his car, so I'm gonna do it." It happens all the damn time. I can't tell you how many people have said that VERY SENTENCE to me in person, on AIM, in PMs, or in emails.

I didn't say you had to race if you have an Evo. The vast majority of Evo owners DO NOT utilize their Evo one bit. Hey, no big deal. The point is that how in the WORLD do you know if your RUNS PERFECTLY if you never use it? Good lord, occasionally hitting boost on a 45mph road doesn't do a whole lot, you know? Until you've actuall taken the car to its limits to see how it does, you have no clue. Do you realize how many people have bought used Evos that were previously modded, put back to stock, and were only running 11psi? Do you know how many of them HAD NO CLUE THAT ANYTHING WAS WRONG? Almost once a week, I help a new Evo owner troubleshoot that very problem. By now, it's just commonplace...happens all the time, and we can diagnose by the time we read the freakin thread title. Those guys would be just like you saying their Evo runs great not ever knowing that they are about 70-80whp below normal. How do they eventually find out? Many go to the track and notice they run 14s at 93mph. Others install a boost gauge eventually and then come ask us why they only see 11psi or .8bar...

So, the point is that just by you coming here and saying that your car runs so well with one of the worst possible BOVs to use on an Evo does NOTHING except lead some poor ricer into wasting his money on something detrimental to his car just because "some guy" said it worked fine on HIS Evo...

Catch my drift yet?

 

I have Greddy Type RS. It worked fine until the diaphram started to leak from being deformed/overheated. I'm going to buy a different kind next time.

 

First, Warrtalon posts this on Jun 15....

"When I put on my RT-615s, I could tell they were better than the Blizzak's that I had been running all Winter, but I couldn't remember if they were comparable to my original Advans. Combine that with the fact that I never push it on the street like I do when racing, and I wasn't really able to give a good review. All I knew was that the RT-615s were nice and wide, very cheap, and looked cool. They also did well at the drag strip, but hell, you can do well at the drag strip on all-seasons, so that didn't tell me much."

Then, on Jul 29 he writes this....

"RT-615s are street tires like the Advans. You're right that the RT-615s aren't quite as good as the Advan A046"

And he proceeds to "rip a new one" on speedfreak0920, the poster of this thread on vta bov's....

"The guy above said he didn't have a clue when he bought and had it installed, yet he thinks his car runs well. That's the sort of thing you just don't admit. What it means is he wasted money on something that does not benefit him in anyway WHILE ALSO causing a degradation in performance - what's worse is he can't even tell that it's a degradation...


Pot calling the kettle black????

Granted VTA BOV's on stock MAF'd cars are not ideal, but just like RT-615's "work", so do VTA BOV's. Not ideal, but they work.

Warr, you hold yourself out as this great messiah for newbs, and you will lead them to salvation when modding the EVO. Do you just talk the talk, or do you walk the walk?

You've been a real *** in this thread. I normally agree with your message, but not your approach.

 

Tires and BOVs are two completely different things, and to compare them with each other is asinine.

BTW, rt-615s are good and they don't degrade the performance of your car. Also they're a cheap replacement for the stockers.

VTA BOVs are expensive, and they do degrade the performance of your car.

You could run comparable times on the different tires, but not with the VTA BOV. Get it? Oh yeah, and the tires can't potentially damage your engine.

You guys fight too much.

 

you missed the point of the post entirely,

But, RT-615's do degrade the performance of the car. By warrtalon's admission, my own personal experience, and plenty of other posters on this board who have shared their experience. They (RT-615's) are cheap, that's a fact, but they do degrade the performance of the car compared to the stock Advans. That's the point..... people compromise, because it's cheap, it sounds cool, or it looks cool, or whatever reason. If you're gonna walk the walk, then do it. Don't just talk it, and try to make others feel/look stupid in the process, while you're doing the same thing.

To compare the two, although totally different, is totally relevant.

And please don't tell my you're trying to say that with a good race tire, a VTA BOV equipped car on a road course/drag strip would lose to an all season tire'd, stock BOV car. Now that's asinine.