The reason you MUST do a "boost leak test"!! Don't pass go. Read this.
To an extent. Some will escape into the engine but for the most part it should hold. The important thing to do is listen and look for leaks. Trust me you can hear it if you have one.
My buddy at work told me that I could potentially ruin seals and valves in my engine by using this kind of leak tester. Is there any truth to this claim? Or is it safe to do this? Does the motor have to be in any certain position before doing this? Thanks guys!
-Fred
-Fred
Do a search as this topic has been covered many times in the past with drawings etc.
Those were my excuses also, and look at all the TIME I LOST and money I LOST!! Which could have been spent drinking and being lazy, if I ONLY did the stupid leak test before jumping on a dyno!!!
HMMMM I have to target a 12.7 afr to acheive an 11.7...duh
PS this was not posted because I hate AMS but that being said I would rather go to walmart and have the greeter tune my evo
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42
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From: finland
I've used the following method for leak testing:
Take a motorcycle inner tire and cut it in half, clamp another end on the delivery pipe on the throttle end and another one on the intake pipe before turbo. (in my setup this cycle should be solid)
Then push air to the tire, the tire will act as a regulating part in the chain so you don't accidentally push 100psi into the system if you have high flow comp. Just listen carefully
throug the whole setup and if you hear hissing its easier to locate with a length of pipe held to your ear while you run the other end over the assumed problem area.
has worked pretty well and with this setup i can take out the engine from the equation.
Take a motorcycle inner tire and cut it in half, clamp another end on the delivery pipe on the throttle end and another one on the intake pipe before turbo. (in my setup this cycle should be solid)
Then push air to the tire, the tire will act as a regulating part in the chain so you don't accidentally push 100psi into the system if you have high flow comp. Just listen carefully
throug the whole setup and if you hear hissing its easier to locate with a length of pipe held to your ear while you run the other end over the assumed problem area.
has worked pretty well and with this setup i can take out the engine from the equation.
I've used the following method for leak testing:
Take a motorcycle inner tire and cut it in half, clamp another end on the delivery pipe on the throttle end and another one on the intake pipe before turbo. (in my setup this cycle should be solid)
Then push air to the tire, the tire will act as a regulating part in the chain so you don't accidentally push 100psi into the system if you have high flow comp. Just listen carefully
throug the whole setup and if you hear hissing its easier to locate with a length of pipe held to your ear while you run the other end over the assumed problem area.
has worked pretty well and with this setup i can take out the engine from the equation.
Take a motorcycle inner tire and cut it in half, clamp another end on the delivery pipe on the throttle end and another one on the intake pipe before turbo. (in my setup this cycle should be solid)
Then push air to the tire, the tire will act as a regulating part in the chain so you don't accidentally push 100psi into the system if you have high flow comp. Just listen carefully
throug the whole setup and if you hear hissing its easier to locate with a length of pipe held to your ear while you run the other end over the assumed problem area.
has worked pretty well and with this setup i can take out the engine from the equation.
BTW, anybody have some advice how to fix the pinhole leaks?
I was thinking JB weld, or superglue. Or is the only feasable way to fix it to remove it and take it to be welded?