The reason you MUST do a "boost leak test"!! Don't pass go. Read this.
#197
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So I am trying to find out if Im doing my boost leak test right! I have a 2.3 hta86 with a manual boost controller, and an stm catch can. So Since I have a buschur front facing turbo, I made a tester to go right on the turbo inlet. Since I also have a double pumper, I pull the fuse conected to the battery for the double pumper. My main question is what do I do with the manual boost controller. I have been pulling the hose that goes from the waste gate to the bottom of the buschur boost controller off. I am leaving the hose on the waste gate, but pulling it off the boost controller nipple. I have not done anything like disconecting from the catch can setup. Am I doing this right? If you guys are unsure of what I mean I can post a picture for ya.
#199
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So I am trying to find out if Im doing my boost leak test right! I have a 2.3 hta86 with a manual boost controller, and an stm catch can. So Since I have a buschur front facing turbo, I made a tester to go right on the turbo inlet. Since I also have a double pumper, I pull the fuse conected to the battery for the double pumper. My main question is what do I do with the manual boost controller. I have been pulling the hose that goes from the waste gate to the bottom of the buschur boost controller off. I am leaving the hose on the waste gate, but pulling it off the boost controller nipple. I have not done anything like disconecting from the catch can setup. Am I doing this right? If you guys are unsure of what I mean I can post a picture for ya.
#200
Well, my car was running like crap for the last few days so I decided a boost leak test may not be a bad idea. Here was my first attempt..
Problem was that the cap I purchased was slightly > 4" so it did not fit in my intake coupler. It fit snug around it, but after about 5 psi it would pop off. So, I went back to lowes and crafted this:
The reducer was for supporting the inside while I tightened the clamp on the intake coupler..
Tapped the 3 " cap and the plumbing coupler was just the right width to fit snugly.
Also tapped the top with a air line fitting and set my compressor psi to 12. Worked great. Turned it up to 22 and found a big leak. A stripped clamp was the Problem, so I slapped a t bolt clamp on and called it a day.
Here is the leak tester on the car. Worked great! Again, THANKS FOR MAKING THIS THREAD.
Problem was that the cap I purchased was slightly > 4" so it did not fit in my intake coupler. It fit snug around it, but after about 5 psi it would pop off. So, I went back to lowes and crafted this:
The reducer was for supporting the inside while I tightened the clamp on the intake coupler..
Tapped the 3 " cap and the plumbing coupler was just the right width to fit snugly.
Also tapped the top with a air line fitting and set my compressor psi to 12. Worked great. Turned it up to 22 and found a big leak. A stripped clamp was the Problem, so I slapped a t bolt clamp on and called it a day.
Here is the leak tester on the car. Worked great! Again, THANKS FOR MAKING THIS THREAD.
#201
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old thread but a good one. Boost leak tests are important. I always tell folks to get a tester and do one as part of your service intervals. I did a boost leak test for a local evo owner and found his tb shaft seals leaking at 5 psi. It would barely hold 3 psi. I didn't attempt to go further since they were leaking so bad. The car was tuned and seeing 28 psi so Im sure leaks at 5 psi cant be good when your pushing the turbo that hard.
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