The reason you MUST do a "boost leak test"!! Don't pass go. Read this.
Aug 30, 2006, 02:37 AM
#32
Here is where I got my stuff: Napa, I got a "tank" valvestem. the gold screw in type, just ask the employee what you are looking for. (a tire valvestem), make sure the hose (radiator) has the right size. I went to Menards (like Lowes) and they didn't have an "end cap" so I went to Lowes Home Improvement, and went to the Plumbing section. (I bought the hose in with me also) and tried fitting in different "end caps" the one I found to fit, had threads on it, but it worked fine!!! I did have to put some WD40 on the turbo, to be able to put this hose on it, because it is a TIGHT fit!! I did also "scrape" some of the inside of the hose with a razor blade, to make the thickness of the hose "less" so it would fit a little easier. be patient, it WILL GO ON!!
Here is where it goes in laymans terms:
You hook up this contraption to the drivers side of the turbo. First disconnect your intake (My case I took out the airbox, and the intake pipe going to the turbo), stuck this "tester" on the turbo outlet(drivers side) and pumped it up with my "air tank". didn't have a compressor handy. you will hear the whistle of air leaking where the culprit is. just leave the intake stuff on the drivers seat, or out of the way. the BOV will keep the other piping shut, so you can "load" the system with air. Have someone look at the boost gauge inside the car, and dont OVERINFLATE the car with more boost than you would see while driving/racing. I got to 4 psi, found the first leak, then 12psi, 2nd leak, then 20 PSI, the other leak on the LICP was Obvious. fixed them all, then re-pumped the system full of air, and the boost gauge would read 22 and stay there, NO leak. (of course I had to hold my finger on the LICP to keep the pressure in there.) Problems solved!!
Watch out for the Radiator shroud also, it is one sharp ****!!
Here is where it goes in laymans terms:
You hook up this contraption to the drivers side of the turbo. First disconnect your intake (My case I took out the airbox, and the intake pipe going to the turbo), stuck this "tester" on the turbo outlet(drivers side) and pumped it up with my "air tank". didn't have a compressor handy. you will hear the whistle of air leaking where the culprit is. just leave the intake stuff on the drivers seat, or out of the way. the BOV will keep the other piping shut, so you can "load" the system with air. Have someone look at the boost gauge inside the car, and dont OVERINFLATE the car with more boost than you would see while driving/racing. I got to 4 psi, found the first leak, then 12psi, 2nd leak, then 20 PSI, the other leak on the LICP was Obvious. fixed them all, then re-pumped the system full of air, and the boost gauge would read 22 and stay there, NO leak. (of course I had to hold my finger on the LICP to keep the pressure in there.) Problems solved!!
Watch out for the Radiator shroud also, it is one sharp ****!!
Last edited by smokedmustang; Aug 30, 2006 at 02:44 AM.
Aug 30, 2006, 02:48 AM
#33
Originally Posted by anjapower
What do you do about the connection of the DV to the intake pipe once the intake pipe is removed?
Aug 30, 2006, 05:49 AM
#34
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I'll post a pic of Kevin's tester after a bit, but I wanted to make note of something else first:
when testing the system, you may need to block off the boost solenoid or MBC if you are using one as these will leak quite a bit of air. Since Kev runs the XEDE, and controls the boost from there, the boost solenoid is still installed. We simply blocked the output line from the solenoid with a golf tee.
when testing the system, you may need to block off the boost solenoid or MBC if you are using one as these will leak quite a bit of air. Since Kev runs the XEDE, and controls the boost from there, the boost solenoid is still installed. We simply blocked the output line from the solenoid with a golf tee.
Aug 30, 2006, 06:08 AM
#35
Originally Posted by hashiriya
I'll post a pic of Kevin's tester after a bit, but I wanted to make note of something else first:
when testing the system, you may need to block off the boost solenoid or MBC if you are using one as these will leak quite a bit of air. Since Kev runs the XEDE, and controls the boost from there, the boost solenoid is still installed. We simply blocked the output line from the solenoid with a golf tee.
when testing the system, you may need to block off the boost solenoid or MBC if you are using one as these will leak quite a bit of air. Since Kev runs the XEDE, and controls the boost from there, the boost solenoid is still installed. We simply blocked the output line from the solenoid with a golf tee.
Aug 30, 2006, 06:14 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by smokedmustang
At least I get to use my golf equipment for something.
Aug 30, 2006, 09:05 AM
#40
Originally Posted by lexat20
If you are hitting your max boost is it possible to still have a leak?
Aug 30, 2006, 09:56 AM
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For the people who do not want to make there own. Here is a website that has prebuilt testers with the gauge already on.
http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html
http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html