there is no such thing as slave cylinder restrictor plates, taking out the spring and the plates allows you to have less travel of the slave cylinder and therefore less slippage. the spring and the plate was there for a purpose if you want to adjust the clearance of the clutch to have less slippage and therefore more grab, underneath the dash near the clutch pedal there is an adjustable cylinder rod that pushes the clutch master cylinder, shortening the cylinder rod by adjusting the nut would serve the same purpose and less work. some dealers will tell you that since it is a hydraulic clutch it is not adjustable, that is not true. if you adjust it too short, you might have some shifting issues, too. so, adjust it that you can shift well and at the same time less slip

 

I never dynoed my car stock, because I didn't know there was an AWD dyno that wasn't too far from me.

My first dyno pass with the mods I have now was 273hp/268tq. This was with some baseline SAFC numbers I got. From there, I cleaned up the maps and got my 286/273. Numbers seem about right for the mph I'm pulling, factoring in the weight of the car, and my trap speeds.

Car weighed exactly 3400lbs with me in it last night, 1/4 tank of gas, a little bit of stuff in the trunk.

 

Were your intial settings leaner or richer than what you ended up with?

 

From stock to my base SAFC settings, there was no point where I had to richen it up over stock.

From my base map to my final map, I had to add a little bit of fuel in the midrange and a tiny bit upstairs, to keep the knock sensor from backing off timing.

I ended up running a conservative 11.4 to 11.7 a/f ratio, all the way through the rpms range, except at redline, where it's a little bit richer.

To answer your question, my base map was leaner than my final map.

 

incognito i asume its Terry? have i guessed right?

 

hey, Alfred*** what times did you run Sunday? I ran a 13.2 at 103.8 mph. last wendsday . mods -k&n, afc, 20lbs mbc. stock exhaust including cat. Oh, forgot to mention this being my first time doing the 1/4 mile. curious to see your times since you have over 300 at the wheels.

 

Is your afc dyno tuned or track tuned?

 

Uhh, no.

The spring and restrictor in the slave cylinder are there to slow down the fluid when the clutch pedal rises. It is there to keep the clutch from being released quickly.

Adjusting the clutch at the clutch pedal does absolutely nothing for slippage because the clutch is always fully engaged when the clutch pedal is released.

I've gone through just about every aspect of Mitsubishi's clutch hydraulic design.

 

Yes, you guessed right. Incognito is me (Terry).

 

ShapeGSX: -- u got it exactly.

 

brake fluid is not compressible, whatever volume is applied at the master cylinder level is transmitted to the slave cylinder, by adjusting how much travel it takes to push the master cylinder, the same thing happens at the slave cylinder. the pressure plate absorbs whatever impact there is in the clutch to the flywheel and it the same pressure plate that allows the clutch to contact the flywheel. the effect of the spring being that small is negligible and since you drained the fluid that way there is some amount of air in the system that translate to a smaller slave cylinder travel. I have done it!

 

Of course. However, it goes both ways. The spring on the clutch pedal itself does double duty. At the top of the pedal throw, it forces the clutch pedal up. At the bottom of the clutch pedal throw, it forces the pedal down.

When you release the clutch, the pedal itself will not want to return. However, the clutch pressure plate has enough force to push back on the clutch release bearing and fork. This, in turn presses on the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder piston pushes fluid back through the restrictor, which slows the fluid's progress. With the restrictor in place, the clutch plate will engage more slowly, and the clutch pedal will return more slowly than if it was not in the system.

This is done so that someone revving to redline and side-stepping the clutch will only smell clutch smoke instead of gear oil.

However, if you are not a moron, and know how to drive your car, removing the restrictor in the slave cylinder allows the clutch to engage more quickly. This allows for better shifts. It also allows you to launch the car effectively without doing so much damage to the clutch as it would if the restrictor were in place.

Wrong. You can get all the air out of the master and slave cylinder, even if you drain them both the whole way. How do you think that Mitsubishi does it? I made a post about it recently on another board. I will post it here, now.

Do you bleed the master and slave cylinder seperately? With the bleeder open, first bleed the master by pushing the rod all the way into the cylinder (can't use the clutch pedal for this...not enough throw, do it manually). Then let it out slowly (slow is key to keep air from getting pulled past the master cyl seals!) with the bleeder closed. This will draw fluid back into the master from the reservoir. Do this a bunch of times.

Then bleed the clutch as you would until you are satisfied that all the air is gone in the line.

But there might still be air in the slave plunger cylinder. You have to push the slave plunger back into the cylinder with the bleed open (and hopefully some vac source on it like a mity-vac). Then hold the slave cylinder plunger in that position with the bleed open while someone else pushes down on the clutch pedal. Then close the bleeder, let the master up slowly, and repeat a few times. Then close the bleeder, let the clutch pedal up slowly. Then let the slave cylinder plunger come back out very slowly.

That should get you a clutch line that is completely free of air. Not many people are so extensive with bleeding. I always use a mity-vac every time I open my clutch line bleeder.

 

If you are not a complete idiot, you would understand what I am talking about(an idiot has the lowest IQ than a moron!). What I meant in my post was not the spring of the clutch pedal(where did you get this idea?). on top of the clutch pedal there is a cylinder that the clevis pin connects to the pedal and it is adjustable. it pushes the master cylinder! I have no disagreement about your bleeding techniques but that wasn't the point anyway. and again you don't have to retort in such idiotic way, to each his own(an idiot has the lowest IQ than a moron!)

 

guys.........guys, come on . You're debating about a clutch/slave cylinder relax..... enjoy your cars

 

preach it, brother.