Best FMIC?
My god all of this talk and no mention of Buschur. Guess everyone is quick to forget the first shop in 8's with an Evo 8. Buschur also makes a quality and equally badass FMIC as AMS
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Diamond Bar, California
Originally Posted by 2StepsAhead
Search around, a lot of people say you don't need it...which is true. But some people say around the 350 whp mark an upgraded fmic might help out...and doing repeated pulls also starts to heat soak the intercooler, which is why ams recommends it especially if you do road racing.
, only with a turbo upgrade will more dramatic gains be seen in my opinion. Still if you plan to eventually upgrade the turbo I don't see it as such a bad option.
Last edited by 3000ways; Sep 16, 2006 at 05:25 AM.
Originally Posted by 3000ways
I don't know if that is entirely true, even a stock turbo should pick up atleast 10-15whp. Now the cost vs. gains is a different story, $800-$1200 for an intercooler to gain 10-15whp , only with a turbo upgrade will more dramatic gains be seen in my opinion. Still if you plan to eventually upgrade the turbo I don't see it as such a bad option.
, only with a turbo upgrade will more dramatic gains be seen in my opinion. Still if you plan to eventually upgrade the turbo I don't see it as such a bad option.
The farther south you live, the more relevant an upgraded FMIC on the OE turbo is, regardless of what all the fare-weather birds say.
09/15/06Austin, TX... heat index at noon... 116 degrees as per News 8.
The way I see it, the most proven units seem to be Buschur/AMS/Nisei.
Sure there are cheaper ones out there, but none are tried and true as of yet.
09/15/06Austin, TX... heat index at noon... 116 degrees as per News 8.
The way I see it, the most proven units seem to be Buschur/AMS/Nisei.
Sure there are cheaper ones out there, but none are tried and true as of yet.
Last edited by Zeus; Sep 16, 2006 at 07:33 AM.
Originally Posted by 2StepsAhead
Search around, a lot of people say you don't need it...which is true. But some people say around the 350 whp mark an upgraded fmic might help out...and doing repeated pulls also starts to heat soak the intercooler, which is why ams recommends it especially if you do road racing.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Bangkok
As I have said elsewhere, and am saying again, IMO
The intercooler is a compromise between three things:
1.)Cooling - increased difference between the inlet and outlet temp
2.)Pressure drop - the loss of pressure as the air flows through from one side to another (from turbo to intake).
3.)Volume - the volume of air inside the intercooler. If it's really big, then there's going to be a delay between increasing the flow into the intercooler and then out of the intercooler.
Obviously it's no good to cool the air loads if the ic loses precious boost. Neither is it good to have high boost with no cooling at all. Finally, if you think of the ic as a box of air, as the turbo starts to spool it's going to take a finite amount of time for to accelerate the air, compress it and have it rushing to the intakemani. It is not always possible to improve on all three at the same time and really you have to choose one that matches your needs.
If you're running monster flow rates then the stock ic probably isn't going to cool your intake charge enough but the larger turbo can probably work against a slight increase in pressure drop so a larger ic would be the way to go.
With the stock turbo, my guess would be that the stock ic is pretty well matched. Since I also have the stock turbo, I am looking for something that can cool better (it's hot here) and have less pressure drop. The ARC079 seems a good choice. It's coming next week so I guess I'll know soon...
The intercooler is a compromise between three things:
1.)Cooling - increased difference between the inlet and outlet temp
2.)Pressure drop - the loss of pressure as the air flows through from one side to another (from turbo to intake).
3.)Volume - the volume of air inside the intercooler. If it's really big, then there's going to be a delay between increasing the flow into the intercooler and then out of the intercooler.
Obviously it's no good to cool the air loads if the ic loses precious boost. Neither is it good to have high boost with no cooling at all. Finally, if you think of the ic as a box of air, as the turbo starts to spool it's going to take a finite amount of time for to accelerate the air, compress it and have it rushing to the intakemani. It is not always possible to improve on all three at the same time and really you have to choose one that matches your needs.
If you're running monster flow rates then the stock ic probably isn't going to cool your intake charge enough but the larger turbo can probably work against a slight increase in pressure drop so a larger ic would be the way to go.
With the stock turbo, my guess would be that the stock ic is pretty well matched. Since I also have the stock turbo, I am looking for something that can cool better (it's hot here) and have less pressure drop. The ARC079 seems a good choice. It's coming next week so I guess I'll know soon...
Last edited by x838nwy; Sep 16, 2006 at 07:34 AM.
Originally Posted by Big Daddy Mango
Buschur, excellent fit and quality, very reasonable prices. Not to mention the great customer service!
Deluxe version uses a rear opening inlet which reduces LICP length
In addition, I now understand why you have to cut your factory tray to make this setup work. Negating the ability of the tray to do its job is reason enough not to go with such a design. Again, if that is the only option then you do what you can, but it is clearly not the only option. If you are limited for space then you do what you need to do to make it fit, but if you can you should always design your setup to minimize potential problem areas.
Again, I am not saying this setup doesn't work, but I don't think shortening the pipe and making the charge smack a wall has provided any gains over a stock like configuration. This is my $.02 so I am not offended if you don't agree with what I have said.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Sep 16, 2006 at 08:00 AM.
Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
Not to spoil your party, but I am not sure what that design has gained you in the performance department. This design has only removed one 180 deg bend and replaced it with a 110deg bend. In addition, the inlet know runs right into a wall before making its way to the core. I am not saying the design doesn't work, but that I cannot see it being any better, but perhaps worse, than routing the piping in a similar fashion as stock.
In addition, I now understand why you have to cut your factory tray to make this setup work. Negating the ability of the tray to do its job is reason enough not to go with such a design. Again, if that is the only option then you do what you can, but it is clearly not the only option. If you are limited for space then you do what you need to do to make it fit, but if you can you should always design your setup to minimize potential problem areas.
Again, I am not saying this setup doesn't work, but I don't think shortening the pipe and making the charge smack a wall has provided any gains over a stock like configuration. This is my $.02 so I am not offended if you don't agree with what I have said.
In addition, I now understand why you have to cut your factory tray to make this setup work. Negating the ability of the tray to do its job is reason enough not to go with such a design. Again, if that is the only option then you do what you can, but it is clearly not the only option. If you are limited for space then you do what you need to do to make it fit, but if you can you should always design your setup to minimize potential problem areas.
Again, I am not saying this setup doesn't work, but I don't think shortening the pipe and making the charge smack a wall has provided any gains over a stock like configuration. This is my $.02 so I am not offended if you don't agree with what I have said.
