Flutter at WOT
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From: PA
Originally Posted by jbfoco
i havent read you whole post.....
but i had the same problem and i had my boost controller hooked up wrong, check that never know
but i had the same problem and i had my boost controller hooked up wrong, check that never know
Originally Posted by Evo VIII Black
Yes I was overboosting. Why? Because the boost gauge was reading the pressure in correctly. So that being said genious.... As cheap as the gauge may have been or is it was the primary cause of the problem. Why go and by a new boost controller when it was not the primary cause. I found the primary cause of the problem and rectified it........ problem solved........lesson learned.
As for Autometer being crap thats your opinion and like A$$Holes everyone has one. And just for the record I am using real vacuum hose not the plactic stuff.
As for Autometer being crap thats your opinion and like A$$Holes everyone has one. And just for the record I am using real vacuum hose not the plactic stuff.
The gauge did not cause the problem.
Your BOV was not fluttering.
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From: PA
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Mechanically speaking you were overboosting because you turned your boost up too high.
The gauge did not cause the problem.
Your BOV was not fluttering.
The gauge did not cause the problem.
Your BOV was not fluttering.
I can't see how the gauge was not the problem. The gauge being off obviously did something...............I caused me to turn my boost up because I trusted it........so again explain to me what your getting at.
Originally Posted by Evo VIII Black
Ok well what ever...... what is your point. What was fluttering? Enlighten me.
I can't see how the gauge was not the problem. The gauge being off obviously did something...............I caused me to turn my boost up because I trusted it........so again explain to me what your getting at.
I can't see how the gauge was not the problem. The gauge being off obviously did something...............I caused me to turn my boost up because I trusted it........so again explain to me what your getting at.
My suspician was that it was either compressor surge or boost controller bleeding off high pressure.
You cannot flutter the stock BOV unless you have it hooked up backwards.
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From: PA
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
I am getting at you getting at the root cause of the problem so that others that read this thread in the archives over the years can actually learn the real causes and effects of the actual problem at hand.
My suspician was that it was either compressor surge or boost controller bleeding off high pressure.
You cannot flutter the stock BOV unless you have it hooked up backwards.
My suspician was that it was either compressor surge or boost controller bleeding off high pressure.
You cannot flutter the stock BOV unless you have it hooked up backwards.
Originally Posted by Evo VIII Black
So what was the fluttering I and two other people were hearing? Well nothing is installed backwards. So I guess I'm hearing things.
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From: PA
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
No, you are just not reading things.
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From: PA
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
I am getting at you getting at the root cause of the problem so that others that read this thread in the archives over the years can actually learn the real causes and effects of the actual problem at hand.
The cause of me turning up my boost was due to a faulty boost guage. the effect was me overboosting and create a mysterious flutter of some sort according to you.
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From: PA
The OEM Valves on the Evo's:
While the OEM valves on the Evo's, both the black plastic and the metal JDM/MR/9 units, are fine and dandy for certain applications and performance needs, they are not necessarily the best solution for every application.
I appreciate the views of those who like the OEM valves, their performance, and operation, and that they recommend the JDM/MR/9 valve as an upgrade for those whose cars still have the black plastic valve, but even then, there are some faults to be found.
Both of the OEM valves are a multi-chambered design, and while the design works well under certain scenarios, the valves typically will not hold boost levels as high as other aftermarket alternatives. When looking at the OEM valves, take note of the channel/vein running up the back side of the valve. This channel is used to help equalize the pressure differential on either side of the valve's diaphragm under partial throttle/partial boost conditions. (more on this later) This equalization of pressure helps give the valve very smooth response and operation.
The limiting factor of the OEM valves, however, is boost holding capacity. As mentioned above, a valve's ability to hold boost is not solely a function of spring pressure. The small vacuum line sourced from the intake manifold to the valve provides a positive pressure reference to the valve under positive pressure/boost conditions to aid in the valve's ability to maintain a seal and retain boost in the system until throttle lift. While other factors such as surface areas also apply, when the boost pressure in the intercooler piping surpasses the holding capacity of the spring and pressure reference combined, the valve will begin to leak/bleed off boost pressure causing a loss of an indeterminable amount of power dependant upon the size of the leak.
The OEM black plastic valve has been tested to hold roughly 18-19 PSI reliably. This figure may vary from valve to valve and car to car, but this is a good estimate to go by.
The metal JDM/MR/9 valve has been tested to hold roughly 21-22 PSI reliably, but really no more. Again, these figures may vary slightly from your car, but these are best estimates for the sake of argument.
Again, this, in no way means that these valves are insufficient at holding boost under those circumstances, but as the vast majority of Evo owners undertake modifications to boost their cars beyond these levels, the valves are then lacking compared to other manufacturer's valves in their ability to hold boost.
While the OEM valves on the Evo's, both the black plastic and the metal JDM/MR/9 units, are fine and dandy for certain applications and performance needs, they are not necessarily the best solution for every application.
I appreciate the views of those who like the OEM valves, their performance, and operation, and that they recommend the JDM/MR/9 valve as an upgrade for those whose cars still have the black plastic valve, but even then, there are some faults to be found.
Both of the OEM valves are a multi-chambered design, and while the design works well under certain scenarios, the valves typically will not hold boost levels as high as other aftermarket alternatives. When looking at the OEM valves, take note of the channel/vein running up the back side of the valve. This channel is used to help equalize the pressure differential on either side of the valve's diaphragm under partial throttle/partial boost conditions. (more on this later) This equalization of pressure helps give the valve very smooth response and operation.
The limiting factor of the OEM valves, however, is boost holding capacity. As mentioned above, a valve's ability to hold boost is not solely a function of spring pressure. The small vacuum line sourced from the intake manifold to the valve provides a positive pressure reference to the valve under positive pressure/boost conditions to aid in the valve's ability to maintain a seal and retain boost in the system until throttle lift. While other factors such as surface areas also apply, when the boost pressure in the intercooler piping surpasses the holding capacity of the spring and pressure reference combined, the valve will begin to leak/bleed off boost pressure causing a loss of an indeterminable amount of power dependant upon the size of the leak.
The OEM black plastic valve has been tested to hold roughly 18-19 PSI reliably. This figure may vary from valve to valve and car to car, but this is a good estimate to go by.
The metal JDM/MR/9 valve has been tested to hold roughly 21-22 PSI reliably, but really no more. Again, these figures may vary slightly from your car, but these are best estimates for the sake of argument.
Again, this, in no way means that these valves are insufficient at holding boost under those circumstances, but as the vast majority of Evo owners undertake modifications to boost their cars beyond these levels, the valves are then lacking compared to other manufacturer's valves in their ability to hold boost.
I'm done. TTP you can say what ever you want. I ain't buying it. There are way to many threads about fluttering and most seem to be from a BOV.
Simply put, you CORRECTED THE PROBLEM BY LOWERING THE BOOST, not by replacing the gauge. Replacing the gauge did not solve the problem but allowed you to FIND the problem which was OVERBOOSTING. Get it? got it? good 
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From: PA
Originally Posted by gkania
Simply put, you CORRECTED THE PROBLEM BY LOWERING THE BOOST, not by replacing the gauge. Replacing the gauge did not solve the problem but allowed you to FIND the problem which was OVERBOOSTING. Get it? got it? good
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From: PA
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
No, just not correct.
You first post was to replace my boost controller. Why? Already tried a new one, produced the same result. It had nothing to do with my issue what so ever..... so how knowlegeable are you? Like I said enlighten me.
If your main goal is to bash me then go right ahead. Do you feel tough now.....
Originally Posted by Evo VIII Black
Still I'm perplexed at what your tring to get at. Still you have yet to give a valid reason on what the real problem was. What makes this so funny is that I solved my own problem. The car boost to 20 psi now with no fluttering. Yet you still say there is a problem.
You first post was to replace my boost controller. Why? Already tried a new one, produced the same result. It had nothing to do with my issue what so ever..... so how knowlegeable are you? Like I said enlighten me.
If your main goal is to bash me then go right ahead. Do you feel tough now.....
You first post was to replace my boost controller. Why? Already tried a new one, produced the same result. It had nothing to do with my issue what so ever..... so how knowlegeable are you? Like I said enlighten me.
If your main goal is to bash me then go right ahead. Do you feel tough now.....
Overboosting would indicate a boost controller problem.
Your gauge malfunction is not the cause, but an effect of a poor install or faulty product.
Fluttering was not BOV flutter at all, but likely compressor surge and/or timing retard from detonation caused by overboost.