ACT clutch = ruined tranny
I have ACT street clutch in mine Evo and everytime I'll be at the track it locked me out at least once or twice. This is only in 2nd. I had a problem putting it in 4th once. I try shifting at lower rpms, but the problem still exist. I think i need to do a little adjustment with it. If I had the money, Exedy will be my choice.
I also want to reiterate that it's not the ACT brand, IMO, it's all the clutches that use the huge heavy stock type discs. The guy losing the 4th gear synchro on the stock clutch is a good example of this. An ACT clutch with an unsprung 6 puck for example should have none of the problems we are discussing here, and sure enough everyone that runs such a setup has no complaints. I'm too ***** to run a puck clutch due to thier track record for destroying DSM trannys like it was their job however. 
It's also worth mentioning that saying "this clutch shifts great on my car" and not providing any qualifiers like the fact that your shifts take .75 seconds and happen at 7000 rpm has absolutely NO meaning whatsoever. I feel it's equally irresonsible as what TTP mentions above... If you are not going to provide all of the relevant information, don't bother with the "me too" posts.
It's also worth mentioning that saying "this clutch shifts great on my car" and not providing any qualifiers like the fact that your shifts take .75 seconds and happen at 7000 rpm has absolutely NO meaning whatsoever. I feel it's equally irresonsible as what TTP mentions above... If you are not going to provide all of the relevant information, don't bother with the "me too" posts.
Originally Posted by trinydex
dude... i'm sure you were referring to my harsh post but look where i'm not wrong... changing the fluid and crossing your fingers does nothing.
notice you found the proper clutch for your application also... good stuff!
notice you found the proper clutch for your application also... good stuff!
Originally Posted by evolancer04
I adjusted pedal engagement and did a bleed and leak of the system.
Originally Posted by kjewer1
Back on topic, I have to defend the original poster. It's a pretty well known fact on other forums with more experienced membership that the stock type clutch, ACT or otherwise, will not shift well especially at high RPM. Just looking at and handling the stock or ACT clutch you can quickly spot what I now believe is the problem. The disc is HUGE and it weighs a TON. This makes a lot more work for the synchros to do. I had no trouble shifting at regular RPM, but at 8k plus I had to shift slow. This has been severely hampering my drag times ALL season. Comparing my shift times to a fellow EVOlinker is a real eye opener
I installed 8-10 ACTs on my 2g over the 5 years I raced it, and never had a problem. On the units I had some premature slippage on I found that my input shaft seal was getting oil on the disc. The DSM clutch seems to use a smaller diameter disc, and they shift fine. I don't have to tell you guys what increasing the diameter of the disc is going to do to its inertia.
I installed a 2900-3000 pound plate with an ACT stock-type disc, and had the same shifting issues as stock. With this one however I also have a hard time getting into gear when the tranny is overnight cold. I figured it couldn't be the clutch since it is temperature dependant, but more on that later. I adjusted the rod out until the engagement was RIGHT at the top of the pedal travel. It had no affect on my shifting problems, so I set it back to a very high but reasonable engagement point to prevent premature wear. I got a full year out of this clutch, with about 25k miles, weekly trips to the track where the car consistently pulled 1.6s on snow tires and on the Advans, and countless street launches. It held the power perfectly! It just wouldn't shift well. In the last few weeks it started slipping badly, and the engagement point moved itself right to the top of the travel. When I pulled the disc it was the thinnest disc I've ever pulled out of one of these cars. I DEFINITELY got my money's worth out of the clutch, as far as that goes...
Fast forward to now, just installed an Exedy Twin HD. Holy ****, what a difference. No more problems getting in gear when the car is cold, and it shifts incredibly smooth. I wish I had done this back when I put the other clutch in, but it simply was not in the budget. Looking at the discs, they are only about 6 inches in diameter, and are very light. Engagement is right in the middle of pedal travel, and is very comfortable. I have always hated the high engagement point of the ACT type clutches. No change to the pedal adjustment.
So to the point, there is no way that driving for over a year on the previous clutch forcing the tranny into gear against its will could have not worn the synchros excessively. Are they dead? Probably not. Will they live a shorter than usual life? I'm sure of it. If nothing else was changed except the clutch, and all of my problems went away, could the cause of those problems been from anything BUT the clutch, for whatever reasons?
I installed 8-10 ACTs on my 2g over the 5 years I raced it, and never had a problem. On the units I had some premature slippage on I found that my input shaft seal was getting oil on the disc. The DSM clutch seems to use a smaller diameter disc, and they shift fine. I don't have to tell you guys what increasing the diameter of the disc is going to do to its inertia.
I installed a 2900-3000 pound plate with an ACT stock-type disc, and had the same shifting issues as stock. With this one however I also have a hard time getting into gear when the tranny is overnight cold. I figured it couldn't be the clutch since it is temperature dependant, but more on that later. I adjusted the rod out until the engagement was RIGHT at the top of the pedal travel. It had no affect on my shifting problems, so I set it back to a very high but reasonable engagement point to prevent premature wear. I got a full year out of this clutch, with about 25k miles, weekly trips to the track where the car consistently pulled 1.6s on snow tires and on the Advans, and countless street launches. It held the power perfectly! It just wouldn't shift well. In the last few weeks it started slipping badly, and the engagement point moved itself right to the top of the travel. When I pulled the disc it was the thinnest disc I've ever pulled out of one of these cars. I DEFINITELY got my money's worth out of the clutch, as far as that goes...
Fast forward to now, just installed an Exedy Twin HD. Holy ****, what a difference. No more problems getting in gear when the car is cold, and it shifts incredibly smooth. I wish I had done this back when I put the other clutch in, but it simply was not in the budget. Looking at the discs, they are only about 6 inches in diameter, and are very light. Engagement is right in the middle of pedal travel, and is very comfortable. I have always hated the high engagement point of the ACT type clutches. No change to the pedal adjustment.
So to the point, there is no way that driving for over a year on the previous clutch forcing the tranny into gear against its will could have not worn the synchros excessively. Are they dead? Probably not. Will they live a shorter than usual life? I'm sure of it. If nothing else was changed except the clutch, and all of my problems went away, could the cause of those problems been from anything BUT the clutch, for whatever reasons?
I had perfect shifts above 800RPM's every time, never lock out and I only adjusted it once. I agree 100% that the Exedy twin plate is better, but at three times the price better, nope, not with my 1.60 60 foots and NEVER a slip.
Use OEM fluid ONLY, never BG.
Originally Posted by kjewer1
Back on topic, I have to defend the original poster. It's a pretty well known fact on other forums with more experienced membership that the stock type clutch, ACT or otherwise, will not shift well especially at high RPM. Just looking at and handling the stock or ACT clutch you can quickly spot what I now believe is the problem. The disc is HUGE and it weighs a TON. This makes a lot more work for the synchros to do. I had no trouble shifting at regular RPM, but at 8k plus I had to shift slow. This has been severely hampering my drag times ALL season. Comparing my shift times to a fellow EVOlinker is a real eye opener
I installed 8-10 ACTs on my 2g over the 5 years I raced it, and never had a problem. On the units I had some premature slippage on I found that my input shaft seal was getting oil on the disc. The DSM clutch seems to use a smaller diameter disc, and they shift fine. I don't have to tell you guys what increasing the diameter of the disc is going to do to its inertia.
I installed a 2900-3000 pound plate with an ACT stock-type disc, and had the same shifting issues as stock. With this one however I also have a hard time getting into gear when the tranny is overnight cold. I figured it couldn't be the clutch since it is temperature dependant, but more on that later. I adjusted the rod out until the engagement was RIGHT at the top of the pedal travel. It had no affect on my shifting problems, so I set it back to a very high but reasonable engagement point to prevent premature wear. I got a full year out of this clutch, with about 25k miles, weekly trips to the track where the car consistently pulled 1.6s on snow tires and on the Advans, and countless street launches. It held the power perfectly! It just wouldn't shift well. In the last few weeks it started slipping badly, and the engagement point moved itself right to the top of the travel. When I pulled the disc it was the thinnest disc I've ever pulled out of one of these cars. I DEFINITELY got my money's worth out of the clutch, as far as that goes...
Fast forward to now, just installed an Exedy Twin HD. Holy ****, what a difference. No more problems getting in gear when the car is cold, and it shifts incredibly smooth. I wish I had done this back when I put the other clutch in, but it simply was not in the budget. Looking at the discs, they are only about 6 inches in diameter, and are very light. Engagement is right in the middle of pedal travel, and is very comfortable. I have always hated the high engagement point of the ACT type clutches. No change to the pedal adjustment.
So to the point, there is no way that driving for over a year on the previous clutch forcing the tranny into gear against its will could have not worn the synchros excessively. Are they dead? Probably not. Will they live a shorter than usual life? I'm sure of it. If nothing else was changed except the clutch, and all of my problems went away, could the cause of those problems been from anything BUT the clutch, for whatever reasons?
I installed 8-10 ACTs on my 2g over the 5 years I raced it, and never had a problem. On the units I had some premature slippage on I found that my input shaft seal was getting oil on the disc. The DSM clutch seems to use a smaller diameter disc, and they shift fine. I don't have to tell you guys what increasing the diameter of the disc is going to do to its inertia.
I installed a 2900-3000 pound plate with an ACT stock-type disc, and had the same shifting issues as stock. With this one however I also have a hard time getting into gear when the tranny is overnight cold. I figured it couldn't be the clutch since it is temperature dependant, but more on that later. I adjusted the rod out until the engagement was RIGHT at the top of the pedal travel. It had no affect on my shifting problems, so I set it back to a very high but reasonable engagement point to prevent premature wear. I got a full year out of this clutch, with about 25k miles, weekly trips to the track where the car consistently pulled 1.6s on snow tires and on the Advans, and countless street launches. It held the power perfectly! It just wouldn't shift well. In the last few weeks it started slipping badly, and the engagement point moved itself right to the top of the travel. When I pulled the disc it was the thinnest disc I've ever pulled out of one of these cars. I DEFINITELY got my money's worth out of the clutch, as far as that goes...
Fast forward to now, just installed an Exedy Twin HD. Holy ****, what a difference. No more problems getting in gear when the car is cold, and it shifts incredibly smooth. I wish I had done this back when I put the other clutch in, but it simply was not in the budget. Looking at the discs, they are only about 6 inches in diameter, and are very light. Engagement is right in the middle of pedal travel, and is very comfortable. I have always hated the high engagement point of the ACT type clutches. No change to the pedal adjustment.
So to the point, there is no way that driving for over a year on the previous clutch forcing the tranny into gear against its will could have not worn the synchros excessively. Are they dead? Probably not. Will they live a shorter than usual life? I'm sure of it. If nothing else was changed except the clutch, and all of my problems went away, could the cause of those problems been from anything BUT the clutch, for whatever reasons?
So im guessing you would reccomend the Exedy Twin HD clutch??? Or what other clutch???
By the way this clutch hasnt seen that much track time. It was only at the track twice on the stock turbo setup and once with my new turbo setup.
We've installed over 15 of them in Evos amongst others like ATS-Across, Cusco, Exedy etc and have never had a problem with any of the ACT clutches. Unless the disk is damaged or seperating from the backing plate the issue is most likely
wrong fluid put in trans
clutch not adjusted properly upon replacement
internal transmission damage
wrong fluid put in trans
clutch not adjusted properly upon replacement
internal transmission damage
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
From: Danville, CA
I normally wouldn't get involved in something like this, but to make a thread title like that when you aren't even sure the clutch caused the problem is just stupid. I've ran an ACT clutch for awhile now and I am very happy with it. What mods are on your car? If it is stock and you used up a stock clutch already then it almost seems like you are pretty abusive on the clutch. Just because you do track days doesnt mean a clutch should get beat up unless you are at a drag strip or have tons of power.
also as others have mentioned, did you use the correct fluid and have you properly adjusted it?
also as others have mentioned, did you use the correct fluid and have you properly adjusted it?
Your mitsubishi warranty is not going to cover your transmission you need to get a shep rebuild and an exedy twin or a satge two. for the parts it s about $1400 (exedy stage 2)with your good core and if you ruined anything shep will charge you his cost for the internal transmission parts they your broke, you probably bent forks and scuffed up some gears and it will most likely cost you an extra 4-500 bucks for the **** that sheps gotta replace. I know this from expirience. If you try to get it covered under warranty mitsubishi will tear it down litterally just to take cash out of your wallet becuz thats how the dealerships roll trust me i work at one. And if you race your evo DO NOT GET A REBUILT TRANNY FROM THE DEALER. go with a shep rebuild or a bushwacker tranny. a rebuilt tranny from a dealership will put you in debt becuz they dont know how to rebuild them properly. I was charged $900 for a tear down I took my car in pieces never went back to the dealership again for anything!
Bushwacker $850.00 with your good core.
Shep trans $895.00 with your good core. (obviously you don't have a good core probably will be an extra 5 bones.)
www.bushurracing.com
www.shepracing.com
Bushwacker $850.00 with your good core.
Shep trans $895.00 with your good core. (obviously you don't have a good core probably will be an extra 5 bones.)
www.bushurracing.com
www.shepracing.com
I have a shep rebuild with ACt and love it. The ACT price is nice and the clutch grabs well. Some just need to learn how to drive. If ACT is so bad then why does Shep deal directly with ACT. I trust his opinion and experiences. You jump out and say its ACT after you go and put nonreliable fluid in the tranny. When I miss a gear, I know its me. Much like a computer, it knows what to do. you just have to tell what and when properly. 10% rule!!!!
