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egt tapping into manifold????????

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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 07:48 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Evo2Envy
would anyone know if tapping a tubular manifold compromise the integrity of the manifold; weaken it at all?


If I was going to install an EGT on a tubular manifold, I would drill and have a
bolt welded on. I've never done it, but most tubular manifolds seem to be
to thin to tap for an EGT probe.

Last edited by Spec'd; Oct 28, 2006 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 07:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
ok i did it. used evomoto's how to. came out great. how high should my egt's get. what is to high or where i should strart to worry.
There's a lot of different opinions on EGT temp.
As a rule try to stay 850 to 900 Celcius max.

If it starts creeping over 900 ... I wouldn't let it stay there to long.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #33  
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The cast manifold wall is barely thick enough to support an EGT probe. A tubular manifold wall will most likely be thinner, so I'd definitely weld a bung on for the probe.

I have a greddy EGT tapped on my #1 runner. I get EGTs of ~920C at the top of 4th gear. The EVO seems to be able to take higher EGTs compared to DSMs.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 08:29 PM
  #34  
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well mine seems to clim read fast to 1550. my wideband says 11.5 to 11.7 witch is ok as im told. so hum. i have no idea. nice gauges tho. lmao
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 03:59 AM
  #35  
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# 2 exhaust manifold runner about 2" from the head, requiring trimming of your heatshield for the exhaust temperature probe to clear, is said to be the best place. This location gives a temperature reading which most closely matches the temperature on the piston dome surface in the combustion chamber of the hottest running cylinder, which is what you need to know when turning up boost, leaning out the AFR's and advancing the timing to the edge.

Other locations such as the exhaust manifold collector chamber, which runs hotter, or the O2 housing, which is about 300* F.( at least it is on diesels) cooler than the manifold runner location, do not give you as direct a reading of the temp in the hottest running cylinder. These downstream locations introduce some fudging thus moving further away from the reality of accurate combustion chamber temp readings.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 02:39 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by sparky
# 2 exhaust manifold runner about 2" from the head, requiring trimming of your heatshield for the exhaust temperature probe to clear, is said to be the best place. This location gives a temperature reading which most closely matches the temperature on the piston dome surface in the combustion chamber of the hottest running cylinder, which is what you need to know when turning up boost, leaning out the AFR's and advancing the timing to the edge.

Other locations such as the exhaust manifold collector chamber, which runs hotter, or the O2 housing, which is about 300* F.( at least it is on diesels) cooler than the manifold runner location, do not give you as direct a reading of the temp in the hottest running cylinder. These downstream locations introduce some fudging thus moving further away from the reality of accurate combustion chamber temp readings.
ok its tapped in that spot on the maniold. but whats to high of egt's to start to woory. mine clime to 1550 fast but my wideband reads 11.7 tops 11.5 is about ave

i idle at 1000 deg. maby 900
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 02:48 PM
  #37  
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FWIW Mike Welch at RRE informed me (for my 90 GSX) to tap into the #1 cyl runner, for that is the cylinder that has a tendency to run the hottest. I BELEIVE the same principle applies to the EVO, but I could be wrong. Ultimatley I would prefer to use the hottest reading of locations for sorta speak of a ....temperature buffer.. If that makes sense!?!?
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 03:03 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by fricci4993
FWIW Mike Welch at RRE informed me (for my 90 GSX) to tap into the #1 cyl runner, for that is the cylinder that has a tendency to run the hottest. I BELEIVE the same principle applies to the EVO, but I could be wrong. Ultimatley I would prefer to use the hottest reading of locations for sorta speak of a ....temperature buffer.. If that makes sense!?!?
and this ???????????????


ok its tapped in that spot on the maniold. but whats to high of egt's to start to woory. mine clime to 1550 fast but my wideband reads 11.7 tops 11.5 is about ave

i idle at 1000 deg. maby 900
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #39  
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Your ok.... mine idles around 800 and gets to about 1450 on the highway. and my a/f is around 11.2 11.4
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by E VOL IX
Your ok.... mine idles around 800 and gets to about 1450 on the highway. and my a/f is around 11.2 11.4
ok at wot when should i begin to let off. and what is a danger area on pump gas for the wideband i should look for. what is to lean???

i was told 1550 is the cut point. but then im told its ok. lol.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 07:33 PM
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1650*F.(900*C.) pre-turbo, is usually given as a safe max temp for our cars. But, you can't rely solely on EGT's. As you mention, you must consider the interplay of AFR's, ignition timing, your fuel's knock resistance and a bunch of other factors that I don't really understand.

Many of the tuners and racers stress that an engine can sustain short bursts to higher than 1650*F. Scott, from TTP takes his engines up to 1750-1850* F. for brief periods.... Wow, hot!!!.

I do a lot of uphill mountain driving, and under load, the EGT's climb really fast. So, driving fast on long, uphill straights, I keep an eye on the pyrometer. I use it more than the boost gauge, in fact.

Last edited by sparky; Oct 29, 2006 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by sparky
1650*F.(900*C.) pre-turbo, is usually given as a safe max temp for our cars. But, you can't rely solely on EGT's. As you mention, you must consider the interplay of AFR's, ignition timing, your fuel's knock resistance and a bunch of other factors that I don't really understand.

Many of the tuners and racers stress that an engine can sustain short bursts to higher than 1650*F. Scott, from TTP takes his engines up to 1750-1850* F. for brief periods.... Wow, hot!!!.

I do a lot of uphill mountain driving, and under load, the EGT's climb really fast. So, driving fast on long, uphill straights, I keep an eye on the pyrometer. I use it more than the boost gauge, in fact.
A lot has to do with the type of EGT.

K type thermocouples are FAST responding and reactive but lifespan may be shorter. This is the type available with the ZEITRONIX wideband units.

Autometer type probe is gigantic and slow reacting but usually gets a longer life.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 04:30 PM
  #43  
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i got defi bf's. its got a probe. lol. thats all i know. i got my warning lite set for 1550. but honistly i dont think i sen it hit PAST 1600 degree's yet. so i guess im ok. never hurts the check. thanks men
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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So if I tapped my downpipe immediately after the o2 housing, my readings could be up to 300 F cooler than the actual hottest cylinder? I really dont want to go through with tapping the manifold...

Any thoughts or experience you guys have had with tapping after the o2 housing?
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 04:05 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by GSknight
So if I tapped my downpipe immediately after the o2 housing, my readings could be up to 300 F cooler than the actual hottest cylinder? I really dont want to go through with tapping the manifold...

Any thoughts or experience you guys have had with tapping after the o2 housing?
You would be wasting your time. Unless of course you like lighted, blinky useless gauges in your car.
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