TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

Just installed a Turbo XS standard manual boost controller and am now having problems. I checked the installation and realized that I had the line from the BOV on the wrong end and switched it with the one where the wastegate line was attatched. Everything else was capped off. It feels slow, laggy, and once I hit about 5K rpms the boost cuts, the car bucks a little, and the power just drops. It doesnt pull like it did before I installed the MBC, and Lower intercooler pipe. It's also throwing a CEL. I'm going to check the licp for leaks tomorrow, but I believe the culprit is the MBC. I had the licp loose once and it popped off, but it was loud and noticeable when it happened. I know there are no boost leaks anywhere else because I used RE WORKS aluminum T clamps on all the intercooler piping and made sure the intake box and throttle body clamps were nice and tight. I'm running a GReddy Type-S recircing and when I shift it backfires. Even with the factory cat. I've tried to list all the info I could to help solve this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Shaker Motorsports

iTrader: (17)

I would definately check that licp pipe again. That sounds like a similar problem I had with that pipe a couple years back. No noticeable sound from it but it was the culprit.
The MBC wouldn't cause the car to be laggy, it wouldn't reach the proper boost levels.
Also, try this. Take off the MBC, put the boost config back the way it was before the MBC instal and try it. or take off the MBC and blow into one hole. Does the air come out the other side? If so, it is not a problem.
You could also do a boost leak test. Then you would know if it was the licp.

TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

Its most likely the licp. Damn it! I forgot to double check that one before I took the car off the jackstands. Thats the only one I'm not 100% on. I did hear a hissing coming from the exhaust manifold area, possibly from the licp down under the turbo somewhere. Does that sound like a licp leak? Thanks.

TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

I followed this by the way.

bigric09

iTrader: (37)

i ran from the turbo to the wastegate... didnt tap into the bov line...

TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

How did that work out? Should I tap it there instead?

TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

Turbo XS website shows to install like this:

bigric09

iTrader: (37)

it works great... the lines are shorter and you are controlling boost at the source... either way works, but i find this way to be less confusing. to me it sounds like you have your lines backwards... try installing it that way and see what happens. when i had my 03 evo i had the MBC on it, it worked fine, just hated adjusting it.... you should in reality, get rid of it, get a forge or the hallman, they are much easier to adjust, install is the same, but adjustment is key.

TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

Thanks, will probably go that route. If the Turbo XS website says to install it that way, I guess you can't go wrong.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

1) That's the worst MBC for the Evo. Sell it (if you can) and get a Forge UNOS or Hallman Pro.

2) LICP installations are the most common culprits for boost leaks. It doesn't have to pop off to be leaking. You need to doublecheck the installation, but more importantly, do a boost leak test.

3) Before doing anything, switch the boost system back to stock using the OEM BOOST LINES, and see if the boost issue is still there.

4) Did you say you are SURE there are no boost leaks just because you installed t-clamps? Come on, dude, you don't know a durn thing until you do a boost leak test. Just installing t-clamps ensures nothing. Do a proper boost leak test: http://vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

5) Poor choice of BOV (much like the MBC)

6) You still have the stock intake. Are you still using the stock intake snorkel that feeds air to the aribox? If so, does it still have both clips holding it down? If not, that's a big problem, so get 2 replacement clips from the trunk lining.

7) I use the turbo nipple for my MBC install, but the BOV method works fine if you do it right.

TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

I meant that I had reassembled the intercooler pipes with very strong clamps. And since I had just reassembled it, I triple checked to make sure everything was on and tightened before I replaced the bumper. I had to loosen the licp to adjust one pipe a little and I can't remember if I tightened it down. I might have forgotten. I've never leaked boost before the install so I doubt thats the problem. I could be wrong. Well, thanks anyways for the help.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

How can you doubt that's the problem when you haven't done a boost leak test and the LICP is the most common cause of boost leaks? It does not matter how hard you tighten it or what clamps you use - if there is a kink, or a bad angle, or anything, there can be a leak. I cannot see how you'd conclude that because you had no boost leaks before the install of the LICP that you would have none now...

Evo8zip

iTrader: (1)

i ran the turbo xs on my DSM for 3 years and on my evo for a year with 0 problems. the only reason i switched was for the in-cockpit controller for convenience. my car had the same symptoms one time...i forgot to plug the harness back into the maf. make sure you did that! and GL!!

WickedWhtMR

iTrader: (13)

When one of my intercooler pipes had a leak, i couldnt hear it either but it slow and laggy and hit boost cut and then aftter a few hits of the boost cut it finally threw a cel. check you plumbing

TogueMonster

iTrader: (14)

Just did a boost leak check. Nothin'. I'm redoing the MBC lines. Maybe the MBC is bad. Bought it used.