The picture looks the same on the Buschur website for this pipe for the 8 and the 9.

 

anyone have any fitment issues with the nisei?

 

I'm new to this site, but I have been watching Buschur perform at Englishtown, NJ since the 90s. That is the most naive statement I've read so far on this site that I just had to post something. Please get a clue.

 

Lets try to compare the DIFFERENT STYLES of LICP and which is BEST!!! (at this time, of course).

Actually I have indeed seen quite BIG differences in the design of these pipes.

Some start to taper to smaller diameter about 2/3 the way (away from the intercooler), some use the coupling to taper.

Is there a difference between doing a very gradual taper, starting about halfway and smoothly tapering down, tapering 2/3 the way in (still relatively smooth) like the AMS or Ebay, or tapering at the last second at the coupling?

Okay, pictures tell the story.

Here is the HORSEPOWERFREAKS one that tapers at the COUPLING:-



Heres the EBAY one (similar to AMS) that tapers 2/3 the way in:-



Here is the STOCK one (and some which are similar) which starts tapering about 1/2 the way in:-



Here is the NISEI one which I think is similar to HORSEPOWERFREAKS and tapers at the couping (but i couldn't find a picture of the coupling to confirm this):-


Here is the BUSCHER EVO VIII one that tapers at the coupling too:-


Apparently the BUSCHER EVO IX one is like the AMS and tapers 2/3 on instead of using the tapering coupling (but please correct if this is not so).


SO... after looking at all the different and supposedly "best" LICP designs, which is the better design? Doing a gradual taper from 2/3 the way in like the AMS/Ebay/others, or tapering at the last minute at the coupling like the NISEI/BUSCHER/HORSEPOWERFREAKS?


I am talking about spoolup response and any actual response/performance differences, not colours or materials.

What do you guys think???

 

I've been running a custom one with a support bracket like the Nisei pipe for 2 years now and aside from it performing 100% all I can say about it is that it has never blown off Not saying that anyone's design is bad, just that I can vouch that utilizing one of the stock mounting points does work in preventing the pipe from blowing off. Also, tapering at the coupling works very well but I have no data to compare the two designs. Just sharing my first hand experience.

 

I guess the main issue is, is it BETTER to have the gradual taper from mid to 2/3 into the pipe and go down slowly, OR to taper at the coupling immediately?

I am GUESSING tapering at the coupling is better, but I'm no expert in fluid dynamics and all that, and haven't dynoed or experienced them, so perhaps someone can add some info?

 

Excellent. Thanks Mitsuorder. Did you ever notice any noise from vibration? Other than that, 2 years without any problems is good enough reason for me to go with the Nisei.

 

why does the nisei and buscher pieces look like they go to totally different parts of the car? also, i dont see how any of them replace the factory pipe that is shown above. im very interested in the gains people are stating of getting w/ this mod.

 

I have no education in fluid dynamics but do conider the fact that the taper, whether it be at the coupling or gradual through the pipe itself is not a restriction. The taper is just there to join the pipe to the outlet pipe of the turbo. The direction of flow is going from the turbo outlet to the the intercooler, not the other way around. So the restriction is a constant when using the stock turbo outlet pipe regardless of where the taper is in the actual lower intercooler pipe. As long as you are getting a solid coupling between the lower i/c pipe and the turbo outlet pipe I think you're going to be ok. Keep in mind that minimizing the amount of couplers used in the pipe cuts down on possible boost leaks. Then again we are dealing with some pretty high velocity here so there is a possibility of a negative effect caused by an immediate transition but I have no education in these matters so I'm just thinking out loud.

 

If you know the location of the turbo extension outlet and the IC inlet, the Nisei and Buschur both make sense. The Buschur looks a bit different than others because their unit includes the bend to mate up with the IC. Other LICPs use the OEM hose which has the bend.

 

i have the ralliart kit and even it has only 1 bracket. i can't imagine any manufacturer adding that front bracket on there. if you really feel it is necessary i suggest you having someone copy the stocker or cut the taperd part off and reweld larger piping with proper bends. good luck with your searching! (no sarcasm)

 

I'm not really sure the LICP does anything. I have the AMS unit which I think looks the best out of all of them. Performance wise people only say they get better spool with an aftermarket pipe. Yet on a dyno the gains just aren't noticable. Personally I think the stock pipe is a very good piece that may just look restrictive but in all honesty its not bad FOR THE STOCK TURBO. The pipe that feeds the LICP is just as small as the stock pipe so its not really hampering flow.

I dropped the $175 for piece of mind and bragging rights but I couldn't tell you if it made a difference or not. My car has always spooled at 3600 with 272s and that LICP didn't change a darn thing.

 

But don't you notice the boost hitting more violently? Not necessarily faster spool, but it just hits harder. I definitely noticed the difference in my friends car (we have the same mods except he has the nisei ss licp). They both have about the same spool up time but his hits harder instead of ramping up gradually. Needless to say I ordered one the next day and will be installing it next weekend, I'll let you know my results.

 

does the nisei licp work w/ aftermarket ic?

 

You would need to specify the aftermarket FMIC that you are curious about.

As for boost hitting harder.....mine hits hard either way. I guess I would have to go back to stock to tell if there was a difference.