air to fuel ratio
air to fuel ratio
what's a safe afr to run the car under full throttle? i just got a more aggressive street tune today, i know the leaner the car runs the more power it makes. my afr used to be 10.6-10.9 under full throttle, it was dyno tuned by Turbotrix. after the street tune today my afr is 11.1-11.4 under full throttle. is that too lean? oh im boosting 24psi on 93 octane
New to this i see.
14.7 is considered stoichiometric meaning perfect A/F ratio for the best Burn
Turbo cars run richer becuase as you increase pressure this thing called "knock" or pre-detonation occurs. This is bad causes damage to the engine and so forth. Generally you will see afr's on turbos around 11 or lower for safety against knock and aggressive timing.
There are quite a few threads on how to tune and afr's and so forth. Just look for them via search.
14.7 is considered stoichiometric meaning perfect A/F ratio for the best Burn
Turbo cars run richer becuase as you increase pressure this thing called "knock" or pre-detonation occurs. This is bad causes damage to the engine and so forth. Generally you will see afr's on turbos around 11 or lower for safety against knock and aggressive timing.
There are quite a few threads on how to tune and afr's and so forth. Just look for them via search.
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
Originally Posted by -=SPECTRE=-
not for a well tuned 9
Originally Posted by ihatepotholes
uh? any thoughts?
11:1 is what I (and many others) have found to be the best compromise on pump gas. Going richer than this doesn't often do much to reduce knock, while removing just one degree of timing can get rid of 2-4 degrees of knock retard. Going leaner than 11:1 will slowly add a little bit of power, but the knock starts to go up exponentially. So 11:1 seems to provide the best compromise.
On race gas I run between 12:1 and 12.5:1. NA cars usually make the most power just under 13:1. Even with race gas we tend to still run a little richer to fight knock. It's all about comromise, and doing some testing to see what works best on your setup for a given fuel.
It's also a well documented fact that more boost makes more power, even if you have to go a little richer and pull out a degree or two of timing. It's all about airflow. Timing also has a significant effect on power, but you quickly reach the point of diminishing return, and you have to watch out for that. With AFR in the "normal" range, I don't see significant changes in HP when testing with it. These are my personal observations from the tuning I have done on DSMs and my EVO, YMMV.
If this is pump gas, 11.8 up top is a little leaner than I would be comfortable with. It looks like it's also too lean when airflow/rev peaks, but without the torque curve it's impossible to be sure.
Originally Posted by kjewer1
If this is pump gas, 11.8 up top is a little leaner than I would be comfortable with. It looks like it's also too lean when airflow/rev peaks, but without the torque curve it's impossible to be sure.
If the EVO 9 pump is the same as the 8, that'll do it.
I just posted some onfo about this in the when to upgrade fuel system thread in this section. Depending on how that dyno reads, using the typical DD fudge factor of ~17% puts you right at the limits of the stock EVO8 pump, roughly of course. If you get back on the dyno, it will be interesting to see if the problem was in the tuning or in the pump.
I just posted some onfo about this in the when to upgrade fuel system thread in this section. Depending on how that dyno reads, using the typical DD fudge factor of ~17% puts you right at the limits of the stock EVO8 pump, roughly of course. If you get back on the dyno, it will be interesting to see if the problem was in the tuning or in the pump.
Originally Posted by kjewer1
If this is pump gas, 11.8 up top is a little leaner than I would be comfortable with. It looks like it's also too lean when airflow/rev peaks, but without the torque curve it's impossible to be sure.
Yeah, that's pretty lean during peak cylinder pressure. It takes way too long to get AFR down to where it should be. On my car I like my AFR to be very close to my target AFR as soon as it hits peak torque. You're still around 12.5:1, I'd rather see mid 11s at the most.


