I'm a bit confused. There seems to be conflicting info regarding the GM 3.5" sensor. Will it work?

 

I have a hybrid sensor that I assembled.. the 3.5 sensor has an integrated AIT sensor and has a 5 wire output, the 3" sensor has a 3 wire output.. There is some speculation that the 3.5" sensor should work.. But I chose to use a 3.5" housing, with a "known to work" 3" sensor (with the 3 wires)

BTW, anyone who has followed my older blowthrough thread will remember this upper intercooler pipe, it was the prototype pipe I purchased from Ultimate Racing, I still love the way it looks, but I want something that is capable of flowing the kind of air that jet engines move.. Therefore I will build a 3" pipe from the intercooler to th throttlebody as soon as I get the sensor working.. I stepped up to the 3.5" housing so the 3" housing isn't a restriction (since it necks down a little bit)

 

is this blow through gm maf system the same one they sell on lancershop under electronics or something for like $1XX

 

I have actually been discussing this with Dejon, unfortunately he doesn't have an evo available that he can use to mock up what I need in a full 3" setup, my new pipe is going to have dual BOV flanges so I can use HKS SSQV valves and retain decent drivability and still have high boost if I want.. Otherwise I have to use a very stiffly sprung Tial blowoff valve which tends to hurt drivability (and cause surging) since you need alot of spring pressure to keep the levels of boost from blowing the valve open. The HKS SSQV is a positive seal valve, its kept closed by the pressure in the pipe..

I think I need to find someone locally who wants to work with me, and is either fairly inexpensive, or wants to sponsor the development of the hardware by fabricating the parts with me.. I have something very specific in mind, I may just buy a bunch of stainless U's some 3 and 3.5" pipe, some flanges, and whatnot and mock it up myself, tack weld everything and go around the corner and have the welder over there do the final welding.. I just need a bead rolling tool that can roll the beads into the ends of the pipes.

 

I did something similar on my 2g. OVer 60 lbs/min the airflow reading with the translator and the 3" MAF was choppy as hell, and the AFR would follow it. Thinking it might be the 3" sensor, I went to a 3.5" sensor. No change in the crappy signal. I did get it to work well enough for a stroker/T67 setup with DSMlink, very driveable. There were really no other options back then, and no one was running AEM around here at the time. I did end up with a sweet 3-3.5" UICP though, which can be seen here. Nice and simple, and once I scuffed up the exhaust cones a bit it never blew off once, even when the 35 psi boost gauge was pegged.

I don't have access to a bead roller either, so when I need a bead I just weld on 4 one inch beads spaced around the pipe. I suck at welding, but it work like a champ.

 

That crap don't work for nothin. Just move to Arizona and all your problems will be solved. Word.

 

Looks good MJ. Keep it.

 

does anyone actually sell a 3" UICP pipe kit that I can use as a starting point?

 

I think the bigger name vendors on here would do it, but it all depends on how they jig the parts together when they weld up the 2.5" pipes.

Jack with what I PM'ed you about last night I have the first 3 bends out of the IC tacked up, the rest should be pretty easy since it almost a direct shot to the TB. 3" might be a bit if a pain to get to fit, but Im sure with a person who has more time on their hands can do it no problem. The easiest way i found so far is to use the lower portion of the pipe so you have somewhat of a guide to get yourself through the frame.

But Im in the same boat as you with the bead roller.

 

yeah I'm actually going to take my bumper skin off and put the car up on the lift next weekend.. I have a bunch of new parts to install so while I'm doing it I'll see if I can get a chop saw and tack a few bends together the way I want them. Once I get the run the way I want, at least I can build the entire pipe.. Who sells 3" to 3.5" stainless transitions?? I'm just going to buy a Bead roller since I have a feeling I'll be making more than one of these.. I want to do my lower pipes also..

 

First dibs on the production model lol great work...

 

I wish I could take credit for that pipe, ultimate racing makes that one.. But the piece I'm putting together should be similar except 3" diameter..

 

Well i can make just about anyhing... I have huge shop with 6 lifts, Huth tubing bender that goes up to 3" all the galvanized steel tubing one could ask for up to 3"... Once i get the MAF to work i will make a newer pipe in 3" to work well with my 3" maf and once i do i will post pics with it. And if all is well and you guys like then i may just make a few for the ones who are interested. I will not be using my bender because its not a mandrel bender but i will use 3"mandrel bends that i have in stock along with reinforced silicone couplers.

 

cool can't wait, im interested

 

If you need some piping ideas....I have acess to lots of aluminum piping and a heli arc.
any size, any combination.