Broken rod (crower)
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Broken rod
Sorry guys, want's a rod, just a cutted valve head, a distroyed block and piston.
Rod is still in one piece.
Yes they were CROWER rods, i'm impressed how much abuse it handled.
Thanks.
Rod is still in one piece.
Yes they were CROWER rods, i'm impressed how much abuse it handled.
Thanks.
Last edited by got boost??; Nov 24, 2006 at 08:36 AM.
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From: Nation of the apes
Originally Posted by joeymia
12.5-13 AFR is insanely lean I find it hard to believe that it wasn't knocking
BTW, we were racing 1/8 mile and redline at 7500 RPM's.
Oliver rods??? how much HP can them hold???
thanks.
Last edited by got boost??; Nov 24, 2006 at 08:37 AM.
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Originally Posted by got boost??
Exactly, 110 octane fuel with alky injection, so AFR's were just fine.
BTW, we were racing 1/8 mile and redline at 7800 RPM's.
Oliver rods??? how much HP can them hold???
thanks.
BTW, we were racing 1/8 mile and redline at 7800 RPM's.
Oliver rods??? how much HP can them hold???
thanks.
What area of the rod failed and what was the mode of failure? Pics? I have Carillo's in my RB26 and hope not to have any issues. I have heard nothing but good things. BTW, there are several different choices of rods from Carillo so make sure which ones were sold to you.
HP doesn't break rods, detonation does. During detonation or knock, cylinder pressures are many times what they are during normal combustion regardless of what hp numbers you are putting down.
A million things could have caused it, a hiccup in the fuel system, or a dust hitting the maf, but since it seemed to break all at once, its pretty obvious it was not a strength of materials problem, but more of a pre-ignition problem.
That is pretty lean, but i have seen it done before. Only on full race cars though, and you do have to be pretty right on about timing to not cause an issue.
A million things could have caused it, a hiccup in the fuel system, or a dust hitting the maf, but since it seemed to break all at once, its pretty obvious it was not a strength of materials problem, but more of a pre-ignition problem.
That is pretty lean, but i have seen it done before. Only on full race cars though, and you do have to be pretty right on about timing to not cause an issue.
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From: Nation of the apes
Originally Posted by okevolutionVIII
They have held 903whp on an AMS built car. I'm sure they will hold more easily.
Coudn't find oliver rods at buschur's page and as you describe them, i'd like to buy those, i only found groden rods and BTW whats the difference on the 6 bolt and 7 bolt???
What area of the rod failed and what was the mode of failure? Pics? I have Carillo's in my RB26 and hope not to have any issues. I have heard nothing but good things. BTW, there are several different choices of rods from Carillo so make sure which ones were sold to you.
We have pushed Oliver rods to over 1041 WHP on an evo.
You can buy them right from Us if you like
I think that there is something else going on with the car though. As was stated. You did not over power the Crower rod (we have pushed them to well over 800) something else is going on
Eric
You can buy them right from Us if you like
I think that there is something else going on with the car though. As was stated. You did not over power the Crower rod (we have pushed them to well over 800) something else is going on
Eric
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From: Nation of the apes
Originally Posted by eficker
HP doesn't break rods, detonation does. During detonation or knock, cylinder pressures are many times what they are during normal combustion regardless of what hp numbers you are putting down.
A million things could have caused it, a hiccup in the fuel system, or a dust hitting the maf, but since it seemed to break all at once, its pretty obvious it was not a strength of materials problem, but more of a pre-ignition problem.
That is pretty lean, but i have seen it done before. Only on full race cars though, and you do have to be pretty right on about timing to not cause an issue.
A million things could have caused it, a hiccup in the fuel system, or a dust hitting the maf, but since it seemed to break all at once, its pretty obvious it was not a strength of materials problem, but more of a pre-ignition problem.
That is pretty lean, but i have seen it done before. Only on full race cars though, and you do have to be pretty right on about timing to not cause an issue.
Well, there was no knocking showed in the MSD knock alert, so i assume a strength problem.
But nevermind, i'm not trying to flame anybody. **** happens and this was my turn.
No i junst want to buy better rods.
Thanks.