lol, exactly. the grouppe-s 10.5lb is quite nice for a good price btw.

 

^VERY right indeed. but, i luckily grabbed a fidanza for not much more.

 

Uh, this makes almost no sense at all. If anything, it makes shifting smoother BECAUSE the flywheel has less inertia. So, if you're off a few hundred revs when you shift, it will NOT jerk the car as bad when you let the clutch out all the way.

Also, I have to shift soooooo bloody slow with the stock setup, it's annoying. Anything to speed up the shifts will be an improvement.

EDIT: I'm a moron, I should get more sleep /EDIT

But like I said before, I would get a lighter flywheel JUST for the improved downshifting, it's great!

 

You don't really know how your transmission works do you?

The flywheel has NOTHING to do with the syncros as it is engine mounted. Were it a transaxle car your point would hold true.

Good luck with that!

 

Well thanks for the input I ordered the clutch today thank god Im a store manager for advanced auto parts bc I saved almost $100 below the cheapest i could find it on the internet. Does anyone have the part number for the lightedned act flywheel bc im going to try and get that cheaper also. If i cant im sticking with stock flywheel. Thanks guy

 

oh yeah one other ? should i get the prolite flywheel or the streetlite flywheel?

 

I have this flywheel no ill driving effects at all. Actually I love it. The cars a little noisier now but that cool with me. Gruppe-S 10.5lb Flywheel FTW

 

StreetLight is 600205 and the ProLight is 600210. If you drag race a lot you might want to stick with the Street Light because the weight is closer to stock so it makes it easier to launch the car. If that is not an issue for you I would just get the Pro Light.

 

Too light of a flywheel can make for a pain when it comes to daily driving and even more so if you are in a hilly area.

 

D'oh, that's what I get for replying right after I wake up. You're correct in that once the clutch is in, it completely disengages the input shaft from the motor(and hence flywheel). If you shift without the clutch though... j/k.

Shifting quickly probably does wear out the synchros more quickly. The lower inertia of a lighter flywheel should reduce some of the shock loading on the gears though.

 

A light flywheel will not take as much abuse before warping.

 

That is a general statement and does not apply to all aftermarket flywheels.

 

Resurface about 0.5 - 1.0 mm of flywheel away and you have a poormans lightweight flywheel.

I think I also remember a TRE read stating to do so for better ACT pressure plate leverage but don't quote me or my memory on this.

 

Which lightweight flywheels can take abuse without warping?

 

This is a different question from your original statement which was "A light flywheel will not take as much abuse before warping."Any flywheel can warp including the factory if overheated enough. Your implication in your first post was that all aftermarket lightweight flywheels are inferior in terms of heat dissipation when compared to the stock one. That is not true. I can name a few like ACT,Competition Clutch,Pro Street and RRE no name that are all forged lightweight steel flywheels that are comparable to the stocker in thickness. There are aftermarket flywheels that are thin to save weight but are not thick enough to withstand overheating and subsequent resurfacing like the factory one.