exedy twin clutch wtf need some help
My 1st gear engagement was noticeably more difficult after I had my Exedy twin installed. Not sure why 1st was tough to slip into, but I definitely had dragging issues. It's a long story, but I eventually replaced the Exedy with an ACT. 1st gear still gives some resistance - like when I'm at a light, in neutral, and then put it in 1st while anticipating the green light. Doesn't seem to be a real problem, but I understand your concern - it just doesn't feel right when it goes in hard like that.
Last edited by EJEvo; Nov 27, 2006 at 04:05 PM. Reason: clarification
Originally Posted by EJEvo
My 1st gear engagement was noticeably more difficult after I had my Exedy twin installed. Not sure why 1st was tough to slip into, but I definitely had dragging issues. It's a long story, but I eventually replaced the Exedy with an ACT. 1st gear still gives some resistance - like when I'm at a light, in neutral, and then put it in 1st while anticipating the green light. Doesn't seem to be a real problem, but I understand your concern - it just doesn't feel right when it goes in hard like that.
now how about where it grabs?????????? at the top of the peddle. leave it or what??? why would it go from the floor to the top like that??? anyone??
Originally Posted by evodan2004
yea i here ya. mine just plops right in so i guess im ok.
now how about where it grabs?????????? at the top of the peddle. leave it or what??? why would it go from the floor to the top like that??? anyone??
now how about where it grabs?????????? at the top of the peddle. leave it or what??? why would it go from the floor to the top like that??? anyone??
The most obvious answer is "wear". However, I'm hesitant to say that. I drove several thousand miles with my Exedy dragging badly. Exedy ended up taking it back and inspecting it (by the way, huge props to Exedy & Bernie Solomon - they are a stand-up company and Bernie is a great guy). As it turned out, it was installer errors that caused all my problems, and were easily rectified (see for details - https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=220070). And with all the problems, I had only 0.1mm of measurable wear on 1 side of the 2 discs - the other 3 sides showed no measurable wear. The discs themselves only have 3mm of material on each side of each disc, so someone more knowledgeable than I would have to comment on how much pad material would need to wear off in order to produce the amount of pedal engagement difference that you've noticed.
ok as we speek the car is on the lift. it does not seem to do what you guys asked me to check for. on the lift clutch all the way down in 1st gear. wheels do not move. BUT about 1 inch off the floor the wheels start to turn. sound good/right????
now the clutch still grabs all the way up top. i would like to see it near the middle of the clutch peddle travel. so what way do i turn the rod on the peddle to make this happen or does this all seem to be right and should i just leave it alone??? thanks.
now the clutch still grabs all the way up top. i would like to see it near the middle of the clutch peddle travel. so what way do i turn the rod on the peddle to make this happen or does this all seem to be right and should i just leave it alone??? thanks.
That sound is normal. Racing clutches make noise.
That hummm as it engages is the clutch disc or discs..
Those clutch disc' s materials have a higher heat tollerance thanks to a cerametalic or bronze engagement zone. The trick is to launch hard enough, but not so hard you build to much heat in the clutch causing it to glaze over...warping the disc, the flywheel. Then chatter is the aftermath if the damage is really bad.
Pedal adjustment is really easy. a 10MM box wrench. Losen the nut on the clutch pedal where the slave meets the pedal arm.
After you losen the nut. Twirl that shaft while lightly wiggling the pedal. You want just 3-4 MM of play as you push on the pedal. Two fingers. You want the clutch to be fully disengaged while the pedal is up, but when you push the pedal down, it will fully disengage and allow a clean, grind free shift.
That hummm as it engages is the clutch disc or discs..
Those clutch disc' s materials have a higher heat tollerance thanks to a cerametalic or bronze engagement zone. The trick is to launch hard enough, but not so hard you build to much heat in the clutch causing it to glaze over...warping the disc, the flywheel. Then chatter is the aftermath if the damage is really bad.
Pedal adjustment is really easy. a 10MM box wrench. Losen the nut on the clutch pedal where the slave meets the pedal arm.
After you losen the nut. Twirl that shaft while lightly wiggling the pedal. You want just 3-4 MM of play as you push on the pedal. Two fingers. You want the clutch to be fully disengaged while the pedal is up, but when you push the pedal down, it will fully disengage and allow a clean, grind free shift.
Last edited by DRFTKNGG; Nov 28, 2006 at 05:04 PM.
Originally Posted by DRFTKNGG
Thazt sound is normal. Racing clutches make noise.
That hummm as it engages is the clutch disc or discs..
Those clutch disc' s materials have a higher heat tollerance thanks to a cerametalic or bronze engagement zone. The trick is to launch hard enough, but not so hard you build to much heat in the clutch causing it to glaze over...warping the disc, the flywheel. Then chatter is the aftermath if the damage is really bad.
That hummm as it engages is the clutch disc or discs..
Those clutch disc' s materials have a higher heat tollerance thanks to a cerametalic or bronze engagement zone. The trick is to launch hard enough, but not so hard you build to much heat in the clutch causing it to glaze over...warping the disc, the flywheel. Then chatter is the aftermath if the damage is really bad.
you would not have a blue evo would you???
my clutch has chattered and hummed for tens of thousands of miles with 100+ launches. I don't think chatter is the sound of a bad twin plate clutch. I do think the humm is a glazed over surface, heat it up a buit and it seems to clean it offand make the humm go away for a bit.