Yeah im holding my breath for now to see how it turns out

 

I would get a refund from B&M, or have them build you another block.

 

My current engine build is identical, just used a different machine shop and doing break in now. I'm paranoid to say the least. The Brian CROWER kit was not cheap but I now see it wasn't exactly specifically proven either. I really trust the CROWER name. I hope I can continue to trust it while spinning that crank in my car.Paul if you want to rev high and go scary fast maybe a 2.0 was meant to be!

 

For drag racing you should be plenty happy with the built 2.0.

 

I know the boys at Torquefreaks have taken a lot of time with your car and learned a lot from my experiance with the same build on what not to do.

 

Paul, I am surprised that you are going with the BC rods, with as many problems that you had with their stroker kit. Have you looked into Crower, Pauter, Carillo, etc rods.

I would say keep the 2.0 and go with a 10:1 compression

Brian

 

I'm sure Lucas will get things done right... the first time.

 

wow, paul first thing i heard of this, funny thing i was thinking about the other day. Wondering if Lucas should of built your motor, guess he is now.

 

Thanks for the nice words guys.

Our Team will do our best and will make it my goal to get the car in the 9s. I felt with the tranny gearing the 2.4 would just be the worng combo. Shifting 5th in the 1/4mi sucks. I think being able to spin the motor to 9k+ will let us stay in 4th. I really feel on a car that is Drag raced alot the 2.0 is a much more Reliable combo.

May have to talk paul into a litttle spary to get off the line right and keep the boost up strong on the shifts

 

what type of tapping were you getting. I have a ticking noise coming form the head. Probably the lifters. I have about 2,500 miles on my RRE stroker motor. Im a little worried now

 

check your oil pressure...cheap-o mechanical oil pressure gauages are like 20 bucks. It'll be a dead give away if you've lost your bottom end.

 

Lifters will be taping all the time and go up and down with the Revs. Since Pauls car did not have a spun bearing it sounded like a extra loud lifter put would only clack when you would rev the motor. So if you were at idle and reved it to 4k it would clack on the way to 4k but once there holding the RPM the noise would go away. It made the noise in the same fasion of a bad rod bearing but just had not spun yet so you did not get the deep hammer sound in the motor like a spun bearing.

 

It really takes a spun bearing to get the big oil pressure drop. I bet Pauls motor would have maybe had a 5-10psi drop on up to temp oil. So unless you have a gauge on there from the start you might not even know you lost oil pressure.

 

When oil pressure is reading negative pressure, things are about to end - my GMC truck did that. It was POS though

Good luck on rebuild, post final assumed reason of failure

 

I'd not worry much about a motor built by RRE, as long as you've not done anything out of the expected with it.