Save yourself a fire or atleast a big mess.......
great find dave. My car was used to have this problem. I went to an autoparts store and changed out the o-rings on the dipstick. That seemed to fix the problem. However im always a little weary it may happen again. That **** was so annoying cleaning up everytime it popped up. Next time i order something from u guys ill have you send me one of those springs too.
ERIK
ERIK
I was going to say it looked like a carburetor spring. Pretty cool though, neat looking.
So what is causing the dipstick to pop out in first place, PVCC check valve sticking open long enough to presurize?
I havent had this problem yet, but she has yet to see beyond 26 psi.
One problem I do have (malfunction in the valve cover) is collecting a lot of oil in the trap (on check valve side)
I havent had this problem yet, but she has yet to see beyond 26 psi.
One problem I do have (malfunction in the valve cover) is collecting a lot of oil in the trap (on check valve side)
this used to happen to me when I had my gsx until I used the "zip tie method"
the spring idea is great and Ill be doing it this weekend, thanks for bringing up a forgotten head ache Dave
saves me from doing alot of clean up when it finally does happen
the spring idea is great and Ill be doing it this weekend, thanks for bringing up a forgotten head ache Dave
saves me from doing alot of clean up when it finally does happen
For the measly $5 we are selling them for it doesn't seem like it would be worth the time to run from parts store to parts store, find a spring that might work and then mess around figuring out a way to bend it so it won't fall off when you check the oil.........
I just tried it on a DSM engine, it will not work, it's too short.
I just tried it on a DSM engine, it will not work, it's too short.
Now, concerning yesterday's "input". I am going to address it since it is technically relevant.
It was suggest that using this spring was going to blow the seals out of the engine and that the "right" way to fix it is to install AN lines on the valve cover and route them to a catch can.
So, with that. In the 18 years I have been building and racing 4G63's I have NEVER had a front or rear main seal blow out, regardless of the situation or what we were trying to do, that is a big NEVER. So the fear of that is out the window.
Next, installing larger hoses on the valve cover is a solution for getting rid of the excess crank case pressure but the fact is there is no need. As you can see in the picture we on this particular engine we have the PCV valve out and a nipple installed. The PCV vent and the breather on the other end of the valve cover are more than adequate for venting the extra crank case pressure out. These hoses will not loose much oil at all and generally don't need to be put into any type of catch can. In a road racing situation where the oil is really being tossed around or left at high RPM's for a long time, yes, you can put them into a catch can. On my person RS that runs 9.90's and I drive everyday I have the two hoses just hanging over the trans and get NO oil out of them what-so-ever.
With this suggestion of fixing it with AN lines I wanted to point out also that if a REAL solution was being suggested it would have been a much more professional one. The suggestion of running a dry sump or at the very least a vacuum pump to pull this pressure out of the block. We have done both.
When doing that though, if someone knew what they were doing or suggesting, they would at that time NOT suggest venting it from the valve cover area at all, that is a **** poor place to vent from in a racing situation. The best place is from the cylinder head itself and where we have been doing it for 10 years now. Problem with this it isn't just quick solution any newbie could come up with. This requires some welding an machine work on the head but eliminates the excessive oil lost to the catch can when actually trying to eliminate the crank case pressure.
Best thing to do is stay out of other peoples posts, I have been banned and warned for doing such things.
Thanks for reading, hope you find this all educational.
It was suggest that using this spring was going to blow the seals out of the engine and that the "right" way to fix it is to install AN lines on the valve cover and route them to a catch can.
So, with that. In the 18 years I have been building and racing 4G63's I have NEVER had a front or rear main seal blow out, regardless of the situation or what we were trying to do, that is a big NEVER. So the fear of that is out the window.
Next, installing larger hoses on the valve cover is a solution for getting rid of the excess crank case pressure but the fact is there is no need. As you can see in the picture we on this particular engine we have the PCV valve out and a nipple installed. The PCV vent and the breather on the other end of the valve cover are more than adequate for venting the extra crank case pressure out. These hoses will not loose much oil at all and generally don't need to be put into any type of catch can. In a road racing situation where the oil is really being tossed around or left at high RPM's for a long time, yes, you can put them into a catch can. On my person RS that runs 9.90's and I drive everyday I have the two hoses just hanging over the trans and get NO oil out of them what-so-ever.
With this suggestion of fixing it with AN lines I wanted to point out also that if a REAL solution was being suggested it would have been a much more professional one. The suggestion of running a dry sump or at the very least a vacuum pump to pull this pressure out of the block. We have done both.
When doing that though, if someone knew what they were doing or suggesting, they would at that time NOT suggest venting it from the valve cover area at all, that is a **** poor place to vent from in a racing situation. The best place is from the cylinder head itself and where we have been doing it for 10 years now. Problem with this it isn't just quick solution any newbie could come up with. This requires some welding an machine work on the head but eliminates the excessive oil lost to the catch can when actually trying to eliminate the crank case pressure.
Best thing to do is stay out of other peoples posts, I have been banned and warned for doing such things.
Thanks for reading, hope you find this all educational.
David - thanks for being my engine sponsor - funny thing is that after you started doing my motors and tuning the car I have not broke anything in the engine since.
As I watch so many other powerful evos go through motors like I change underwear I realize more and more that you and your brother know more about how to build high power 4G63 motors than most of the so called "experts" forgot.
Please dont let the haters get you down man.
Best regards and thanks for posting up another great idea - I hate having to cut a zip tie very time I check the oil.
AL
Why not solve the core problem instead?
The stick pops because you don't have enough crankcase ventilation, so take of the rocker cover and install a dual -8an ccv and it's most likely solved.
This is not a mod everyone can do though so for most people Davids idea will be best but for those people that pops the stick thanks to a highly tuned engine and high boost levels I would very much recommend to increase the ccv.
Look here how I have done it.
The stick pops because you don't have enough crankcase ventilation, so take of the rocker cover and install a dual -8an ccv and it's most likely solved.
This is not a mod everyone can do though so for most people Davids idea will be best but for those people that pops the stick thanks to a highly tuned engine and high boost levels I would very much recommend to increase the ccv.
Look here how I have done it.