EVO Green/20g-LT airflow numbers
I had a 20gLT installed at 1320 Performance in NJ then tuned Sean Ivey.
I have your basic Buschur stage 4 plus some other peripherals but no internal work done.
I went in with a car with felt moderately quick pushing around 365whp and 340lb/ft on Pruven's dyno (27psi/93 octane)
I left with a car that felt fast and responsive pushing around 414whp and 393lb/ft on Pruven's dyno. The car was consertively tuned for road course with a map that showed almost no knock, with the count only hitting '2' one time with a few '1' showing and mostly '0' showing (29psi/93 octane).
As a road course driver, I was thoroughly impressed with spool and ability to control the boost with my right foot.
I never thought that as the Evo would spool, it would chirp the tires but much to my surprise, it did around 3900 rpm.
The new tune held power until about 6800 then dropped fast at 7200 - I have 264/264 cams btw.
All in all, highly recommend for street application, road course and 1/4mi depending on driving style.
I have your basic Buschur stage 4 plus some other peripherals but no internal work done.
I went in with a car with felt moderately quick pushing around 365whp and 340lb/ft on Pruven's dyno (27psi/93 octane)
I left with a car that felt fast and responsive pushing around 414whp and 393lb/ft on Pruven's dyno. The car was consertively tuned for road course with a map that showed almost no knock, with the count only hitting '2' one time with a few '1' showing and mostly '0' showing (29psi/93 octane).
As a road course driver, I was thoroughly impressed with spool and ability to control the boost with my right foot.
I never thought that as the Evo would spool, it would chirp the tires but much to my surprise, it did around 3900 rpm.
The new tune held power until about 6800 then dropped fast at 7200 - I have 264/264 cams btw.
All in all, highly recommend for street application, road course and 1/4mi depending on driving style.
I had a 20gLT installed at 1320 Performance in NJ then tuned Sean Ivey.
I have your basic Buschur stage 4 plus some other peripherals but no internal work done.
I went in with a car with felt moderately quick pushing around 365whp and 340lb/ft on Pruven's dyno (27psi/93 octane)
I left with a car that felt fast and responsive pushing around 414whp and 393lb/ft on Pruven's dyno. The car was consertively tuned for road course with a map that showed almost no knock, with the count only hitting '2' one time with a few '1' showing and mostly '0' showing (29psi/93 octane).
As a road course driver, I was thoroughly impressed with spool and ability to control the boost with my right foot.
I never thought that as the Evo would spool, it would chirp the tires but much to my surprise, it did around 3900 rpm.
The new tune held power until about 6800 then dropped fast at 7200 - I have 264/264 cams btw.
All in all, highly recommend for street application, road course and 1/4mi depending on driving style.
I have your basic Buschur stage 4 plus some other peripherals but no internal work done.
I went in with a car with felt moderately quick pushing around 365whp and 340lb/ft on Pruven's dyno (27psi/93 octane)
I left with a car that felt fast and responsive pushing around 414whp and 393lb/ft on Pruven's dyno. The car was consertively tuned for road course with a map that showed almost no knock, with the count only hitting '2' one time with a few '1' showing and mostly '0' showing (29psi/93 octane).
As a road course driver, I was thoroughly impressed with spool and ability to control the boost with my right foot.
I never thought that as the Evo would spool, it would chirp the tires but much to my surprise, it did around 3900 rpm.
The new tune held power until about 6800 then dropped fast at 7200 - I have 264/264 cams btw.
All in all, highly recommend for street application, road course and 1/4mi depending on driving style.
Robert, that exhaust pressure chart is great to see! I have thought about logging exhaust pressure for several years now but never got around to it. I'm really tempted to now since I plan to be maxing out this turbo plus running nitrous, which doesn't increase manifold pressure, but will increase exhaust pressure further.
The drop off at 7200 in the case above may be due to the smaller cams, hard to say. If I get a chance to dyno friday we can see how it looks with 272s.
I too was surprised that rolling on it in first, at around 5k rpm or so it breaks the tires loose. It does it in second too but I think it's mostly the fronts. Looking at how steep the airflow curve is with the silencer out it's really no surprise, it practically looks like it's a Honder
The drop off at 7200 in the case above may be due to the smaller cams, hard to say. If I get a chance to dyno friday we can see how it looks with 272s.
I too was surprised that rolling on it in first, at around 5k rpm or so it breaks the tires loose. It does it in second too but I think it's mostly the fronts. Looking at how steep the airflow curve is with the silencer out it's really no surprise, it practically looks like it's a Honder
Robert,
First off, thanks for the data!
I'm curious as to why you were able to hold 30+ psi to redline (peak of about 34 psi), whereas when Kevin removed the source to the WG, it spiked.peaked at 30.1 and held 26 psi to redline, resulting in about 49lb/min of airflow (which we are led to believe is the max flow of the compressor).
Was your test done on stock cams or something? Just curious.
Eric
First off, thanks for the data!
I'm curious as to why you were able to hold 30+ psi to redline (peak of about 34 psi), whereas when Kevin removed the source to the WG, it spiked.peaked at 30.1 and held 26 psi to redline, resulting in about 49lb/min of airflow (which we are led to believe is the max flow of the compressor).
Was your test done on stock cams or something? Just curious.
Eric
Last edited by l2r99gst; Dec 13, 2006 at 02:07 PM.
Catching the tail end, but is this equipped with an aftermarket actuator?
The unit we tuned and tested peaked 29.0psi, tapering to 19psi at 7500 on the factory supplied actuator by BR and Forge UNOS MBC cranked full tilt.
In our testing we cannot stress enough NOT to use this unit with a factory WGA as was provided.
The unit we tuned and tested peaked 29.0psi, tapering to 19psi at 7500 on the factory supplied actuator by BR and Forge UNOS MBC cranked full tilt.
In our testing we cannot stress enough NOT to use this unit with a factory WGA as was provided.
If you want to run this turbo at 29psi, you're right...you should get the upgraded actuator.
However, having run both the upgraded and stock actuator on my car, I find that the stock actuator provides a much smoother boost curve without the "hump" that's logged (by Kevin as well) while using the HP actuator running at ~22psi.
For the regular guy on the street who's not running race gas or meth, and especially those stuck on 91 octane, the stock actuator may be the right choice in order to maintain a smooth (and easily tunable) boost curve that won't go too high in 4th gear. My testing with no boost controller at all (looped vacuum line to WGA) resulted in peak boost pressures above 20psi in 50*F ambient temps. The increased resolution of boost control (at the pressures I'll be running ~<25psi) that the stock WGA affords me, coupled with the absence of boost-humpage, makes it the right choice for me.
Yes, Kevin is using the upgraded actuator from FP.
If you want to run this turbo at 29psi, you're right...you should get the upgraded actuator.
However, having run both the upgraded and stock actuator on my car, I find that the stock actuator provides a much smoother boost curve without the "hump" that's logged (by Kevin as well) while using the HP actuator running at ~22psi.
For the regular guy on the street who's not running race gas or meth, and especially those stuck on 91 octane, the stock actuator may be the right choice in order to maintain a smooth (and easily tunable) boost curve that won't go too high in 4th gear. My testing with no boost controller at all (looped vacuum line to WGA) resulted in peak boost pressures above 20psi in 50*F ambient temps. The increased resolution of boost control (at the pressures I'll be running ~<25psi) that the stock WGA affords me, coupled with the absence of boost-humpage, makes it the right choice for me.
If you want to run this turbo at 29psi, you're right...you should get the upgraded actuator.
However, having run both the upgraded and stock actuator on my car, I find that the stock actuator provides a much smoother boost curve without the "hump" that's logged (by Kevin as well) while using the HP actuator running at ~22psi.
For the regular guy on the street who's not running race gas or meth, and especially those stuck on 91 octane, the stock actuator may be the right choice in order to maintain a smooth (and easily tunable) boost curve that won't go too high in 4th gear. My testing with no boost controller at all (looped vacuum line to WGA) resulted in peak boost pressures above 20psi in 50*F ambient temps. The increased resolution of boost control (at the pressures I'll be running ~<25psi) that the stock WGA affords me, coupled with the absence of boost-humpage, makes it the right choice for me.
At 12:1 650s are JUST enough (~98% IDC), but at 11:1 they won't cut it, 750s are the minimum. Assuming all of the usual variables of course for fuel SG, base pressure, etc.
The only way I was able to achieve a "normal" boost curve (peaking around 22psi) was by installing the stock IX actuator.
Running 23psi on pump gas, you can get away with running 660cc injectors at about 90% IDC.