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How can you tell your oil pump is bad?

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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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How can you tell your oil pump is bad?

So I have an 03 Evo with about 98,XXX miles on it. About 2 weeks ago after getting of the high going into baltimore I hear the DREADED ticking noise. Of course I shut the engine off and checked oil. It was @ the lower mark so it wasnt dangerously low.

Anyways I took it to a local repair shop and they told me either my oil pump was going bad or my my bearings were bad main or rod. I dont remember. So will that oil light come on when its low pressure or will the CEL light just come on an 03 evo or is that 05 and up? The ticking gets louder as I go faster. Ive always used 10w30 mobile one. Im thinking of buying a oil pressure gauge to see if the pump is losing power.

Let me know if anybody had to change their oil pump or bearings on a stock engine. Just have some 272 cams in the car currently.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 05:07 PM
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anyone?
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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get an oil pressure gauge
if the oil pressure is low than the pump is bad
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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I didnt wanna have to do that but ahhh well...
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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Ticking?


Sounds like lifters.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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That is basic engine 101. You need that gauge to moniter the health of the car at all times. They are only around $50.00 for a Stewart Warner gauge. Also...if the pump lost pressure I believe the oil light would come on. The best thing to do if you want to isolate the ticking is to get a long extension or screwdriver and with the car running use it like a stethoscope. Place one end against the block and the other in you ear. Listen to the ticking and follow it until the sound is as loud as it will get. See where it is in relation to the block and it components. This should help if its the oil pump.

Also...drain the oil and check for metal. If the bottom end is coming apart there should be metal in it.

Buy the oil pressure gauge. Get a boost gauge. If you have money left over, invest in a wideband O2 sensor w/gauge. These should be some of the first mods you ever do to the car.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MRadjahoe
So I have an 03 Evo with about 98,XXX miles on it. About 2 weeks ago after getting of the high going into baltimore I hear the DREADED ticking noise. Of course I shut the engine off and checked oil. It was @ the lower mark so it wasnt dangerously low.
Ticking or knocking? If it's a tick at idle, it may be lifters. If it's a KNOCK, then turn it off and leave it off until you figure out what the problem is.

Originally Posted by MRadjahoe
Anyways I took it to a local repair shop and they told me either my oil pump was going bad or my my bearings were bad main or rod. I dont remember.
That would make a difference. When your oil pump "goes" your bearings won't be far behind. Oil pumps don't "tick" though, so you've got something else (or in addition to) going on.

Originally Posted by MRadjahoe
So will that oil light come on when its low pressure or will the CEL light just come on an 03 evo or is that 05 and up? The ticking gets louder as I go faster. Ive always used 10w30 mobile one. Im thinking of buying a oil pressure gauge to see if the pump is losing power.
The low pressure oil light is factory set to light when your oil pressure is at or below a specific pressure. It will come on when your oil pressure gets too low, unless it's not working.

Mobile 10W30 is a motor job waiting to happen. 20W50 is what to use.

Originally Posted by MRadjahoe
Let me know if anybody had to change their oil pump or bearings on a stock engine.
People have had to change their oil pump. People have had to rebuild their motors because of main and/or rod bearing failure. They can all happen. What has happened in your case is individual. Have you drained the oil, looking at it carefully to see whether you have debris and metallic particles in your oil? I'd start there, if you suspect bearing failure, and then if you're still not sure, pull the oil pan and check out the mains, rods and balance shaft bearings as well.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by althemean
That is basic engine 101. You need that gauge to moniter the health of the car at all times. They are only around $50.00 for a Stewart Warner gauge. Also...if the pump lost pressure I believe the oil light would come on. The best thing to do if you want to isolate the ticking is to get a long extension or screwdriver and with the car running use it like a stethoscope. Place one end against the block and the other in you ear. Listen to the ticking and follow it until the sound is as loud as it will get. See where it is in relation to the block and it components. This should help if its the oil pump.

Also...drain the oil and check for metal. If the bottom end is coming apart there should be metal in it.

Buy the oil pressure gauge. Get a boost gauge. If you have money left over, invest in a wideband O2 sensor w/gauge. These should be some of the first mods you ever do to the car.

Definately changed the oil and no metal. Ill try the screwdriver thing. plus get an oil pressure gauge. when my ear is on the head of the car its really loud especially on cylinder 3 towards the intake side of the engine. Thanks for the info.

Oil Pressure gauge and screwdriver.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:33 PM
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Loud ticking. I dont think its knocking. No metal in oil when drained. ill take a second look when I emply my drain pan.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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It may just be a lifter. I'd make sure my pressure was normal, then see if changing the oil you use to 20/50 would make the noise change as well. It has on some other 4g63s I know of, and it's a pretty inexpensive experiment.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CO_VR4
It may just be a lifter. I'd make sure my pressure was normal, then see if changing the oil you use to 20/50 would make the noise change as well. It has on some other 4g63s I know of, and it's a pretty inexpensive experiment.
20W50 IS NOT WHAT IS RECOMMENDED....

Mobil 1 10W30 FTW or if you are racing maybe you could go Mobil1 15W50....Either way I doubt the viscosity of the oil caused your problem....
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cij911
20W50 IS NOT WHAT IS RECOMMENDED....

Mobil 1 10W30 FTW or if you are racing maybe you could go Mobil1 15W50....Either way I doubt the viscosity of the oil caused your problem....

You use whatever you want, since you get to pay for the fix when you need it. It is WELL known that higher HP 4g63 motors do not live well on 10W30. If you don't know that now, you will sooner or later.
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by CO_VR4
You use whatever you want, since you get to pay for the fix when you need it. It is WELL known that higher HP 4g63 motors do not live well on 10W30. If you don't know that now, you will sooner or later.

Hmmm.. Interesting... I do have a GT35R turbo kit on there currently. I might try everything b4 i spend like 1000 bucks on an oil pump install.
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by CO_VR4
You use whatever you want, since you get to pay for the fix when you need it. It is WELL known that higher HP 4g63 motors do not live well on 10W30. If you don't know that now, you will sooner or later.
First time I've heard this. What info do you have to support this?
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Old Dec 15, 2006 | 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by CO_VR4
Mobile 10W30 is a motor job waiting to happen. 20W50 is what to use.
Noone should ever listen to your advice again. The manual also says FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL ONLY. Call Roadrace and ask them what they reccomend.

Last edited by 3gturbo; Dec 15, 2006 at 04:03 AM.
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