I was advised by another AWD friend (who drives a 10 second Subaru) that when you get a stroker motor, depending on how hard you are on it, you should probably change the bearings YEARLY, as it is cheaper (and wiser) to replace them. He mentioned the piston speed's as one of the reasons for doing that.

Heat robs longevity, and when I put my hand over the exhaust with the stroker, it is COOL to the touch, and with the 2.0L, warm. It seems backwards to me. Just though I would share what I was told. If this has been bought up before, I apologize, and would accept a demotion to "newbie" for bringing this up again.

So, is this the case?

Here is the photos of his car in action!

http://www.wingedwarrior.net/forum2/...pic.php?t=1676


Yeah, the Honda will be throwing down as well at WWIII.

 

There are theorys that strokers wont last aslong due to the added stress from the bad rod stroke ratio. Most stroked 4g63s just use a 7 seven bolt crank out of a factory 2.4 Galant. The added tenth of a liter is from the added 2.3 to the 2.4 is the bore size. To do this u have to have new pistons made with a different wrist pin locations for clearence. But thats about it. Its no worse then having a stock 2.4 engine aslong as all the machine work is in spec. Im sure ur fine with ur AMS built block. Id also ask them ther thought about it. There should be no need for a rebuild because the bearings every year.

 

Try ACL steel backed bearings and 20/50 motor oil. Just a little secret shared.

 

Thanks for the response whitey! It just concerned me when he said that.......I thought "here we go again! Spun rod bearing" I will call them, and ask if there is a "freshening" up recommendation for the bearings. Thanks again.

 

I am not sure of the bearings AMS put in there, but is that oil FULL synthetic 20/50, Blend, or old fashioned dino oil? thanks for the "secret". I will keep that between you and I!

 

I ask Eric the same question yesterday , He said to use amsoil or like and
kind so I am going to use Mobil 1 15 50

 

We usually run full synthetic oil. Although I don't think it really matters. I would be willing to bet ams used clevites in your engine which will be fine. That heavier motor oil is just a good cheap way to keep from spinning rod bearings.

 

As far as changing bearings yearly...BULLSH!T! Unless you are doing ALL of the work completely by yourself, it won't be any cheaper. After you pay labor for removing and reinstalling the engine a few times, plus having a machine shop remove and reinstall the bearings and check clearances, paying for new gaskets each time, and everything else involved, it is no cheaper than blowing the damn thing up after 2-3 years and getting it done then. Anyway, I'm sure if built and maintained properly, a stroker will last much longer than that, assuming this is not a track only car.

I had a 2.3 in my 2G, but I don't remember hearing anything about undue bearing stress due to the longer stroke. I do remember reading about more potential side load of the pistons to the cylinder walls however. A stroker also makes for higher piston speeds. These two scenarios could POTENTIALLY make honing and re-ringing necessary more often than a standard 4G63, MAYBE, but you should still get a very long, happy life out of your stroker if properly built and maintained. Plus, on strokers, I believe they use a longer rod to lessen piston to rod angle, which helps to reduce the side load of the piston. The longer rod is fitted by being mounted higher inside the piston. This is why to make a stroker you can't just change out the crankshaft and be done.

 

Awesome response, thank you!

 

Long-rod strokers are available from specialty shops like Magnus Motorsports. However, the usual stroker is NOT a long rod configuration. The fact that the rod is stock length is the drawback on using a stroker. The normal stroker uses the 100mm crank and the stock length rods (whether forged aftermarket or not), and the piston configuration is changed to account for the 6mm longer stroke, so that the piston is not shoved 6mm above the block A long rod stroker gets the rod:stroke ratio back closer to where a 2.0L is, but the pistons are even shorter than the stroker piston. Tradeoffs are necessary, unless you use a factory 2.4L block, where the block deck is higher (6mm) than the 2.0L block and gives you a little more room on the piston height.

 

Bingo! and as long as the rpm's are kept to no more than 7500 and you still run the factory harmonic damper and balance shafts, you should get good life out of the strokers. The once a year bearing thing is only for insurance, I had mine checked without removing the motor at the bottom after a race and had to replace it but as mentioned in the other thread it was because I was running an aluminium crank pulley...

Run without the dampers on the 2.3 and you'll replacing bearings a couple of times a year, run with it and you'll not have to replace anything...

 

if you are at the track a lot it might not be a bad idea to change the rod bearings at least. i wouldn't use a thick oil like 20/50 unless you know for sure what clearances AMS used on your block.