good job. only question how hard was it to block off the oiling passages for the balance shafts? I remember it being a pain in the *** with the block out must of been even worse with it still on the car.

 

The front one was a cake walk, The back inner bearing was an absolute nightmare, until we made up a tool take it out, Then it went Really Smooth.

 

more pictures!

 

lol...I was thinking the same exact thing when I was reading his questions. LOL

 

i asking because your not supose to use a torque wrench on the rod bolts
your supose to use a rod bolt stretch tool

 

The spec's for the main studs are in the box

Hand tight on putting in the studs with the assembly lube and then torque to specs of 60 ft/lbs in two steps according to factory sequence


Also Adding to that, Your question about the head. The cast iron block doesn't have to be as smooth as the cast aluminum head. The block should be a 70 to 90 mico finish, while the head will be milled the reguired amount after the head chamber is CC'ed. We don't know that yet because we haven't taken a cc measurement. But the head will be millec to a 30 to 35 micro finish

 

This doesnt apply to you since you left the block in the car but generally you would have the block decked or atleast chemically cleaned and checked for flatness.

Did you check the deck for flatness? Straightedge and feeler gauges?

Especially when using a cometic HG you want to make for sure that both surfaces are perfect, obviously for sealing purposes. Just cause it feels smooth to the touch doesnt mean there isnt a slightly raised or lowered surface.

I am not trying to doubt you, possibly your pics are making the deck surface look more uneven than it really is? I would atleast check for flatness though at home since you cant bring the block to the shop.

 

Hmmm. i'll try and explain this too you as much as i can,

Decked Surfaces.... my main concern is really the head, the block is iron, so, considering that there are no signs of warping. I dont want to jump the gun and say that the block Really Needs to be Decked.


My Single Question to you was that Why And what have you heard about comtic Head gaskets, Something is Concerning you, And thats what i would like to know.


Who said that all this work is being done at my house?

 

you need to remove the block from the car and get it professionally bathed after having the type of engine failure you experienced. Please trust me, I don't want you to waste all that money on your engine build only to have it fail again when debris is passed through the overhauled engine. It doesn't take much debris to pass through a new engine to cause another failure, I have witnessed it first hand several times. Good luck with your project, you have chosen very nice components - well aside from the SBR stuff which looks nice in your pics but I just have a thing for SBR. Well, I do at least until they learn how to refund my money.

regards

-bill

 

i have gotten all these parts from SBR, There was no Blow threw, and no Debri, all those Pit marks. already Did a leak down test, That passed, The Block Has been clean, There was no Engine Failure, this was just mutliple misfire

 

I am not really concerned about the warping, I am saying that in your pics you can see the marks from whatever you used to clean the deck. If you removed a little more material in one area compared to another it may leak. My whole reference to the cometic head gasket is that any surface imperfections might cause a leak.

As far as your car being at a shop right now, I dont really care. I was refering to a machine shop with proper tools to check the things I have been mentioning.

Good luck with the build, I hope everything works ok.

 

about the Commetic,not much was taken off, if any, its an Iron block if you have done this before you would know that were talking thousands..... and for you info.. It was a polishing pad that was used on a Rotory drill to clean it up...... SO i dont think that you would see any unlevel areas at all.

Thanks for not caring next time dont post it then.........


I wasnt trying to brag about my build, was just trying to Show other people whats is like that might never undergo a build in thier life, i think its pretty intense, and Def something different.

Merry Xmas Guys

Anthony
Boston Dyno

 

I have helped build a few engines and have taken a few courses on it, I feel I have some pretty good knowledge to share on the topic, that is why I replied.

When you say that it is only a few thousands it really makes me understand how misinformed you are. Engines today run tight tolerances weather it be cast or alum, 4cyl or V8. Even .002" imperfection on a mating surface could cause huge failure on an engine. If I recall correctly, the spec for flatness on most 4 cyl engines is .002-.003" and a little more than that for inline 6 engines due to the length of the surface that is measured.

I gave my advice with hopes that everything would be successful for you. I wasnt trying to belittle you and make you look like you dont know what you are doing. I was just trying to help.

 

I know, and thanks for you input, I wasnt trying to be a dick. Never said you didnt know what you were talking about, i think that you have some good points, but what i was trying to say was that. If there were Any inperfections. That they would be in the thousandth's ( however There are None) that they would be taken car of. And im am not misinformed. I've taken ASE classes as well have built a few motors with the help of some Great people, this motor too is under the knife by a great team.


Thanks again for you input.

Anthony
Boston Dyno

 

I love the build up

2 quick ones for ya...

When using main studs shouldn't you get the block main caps line honed?

And removing the balance shafts requires the crank, rods and pistons all be balanced together... right