Adrian_3g

The 4g64 crank or hell the entire bottem end is basically bullet proof. The 4g64 bottem end bolted up to the 4g63 head is IMO the best combination of power. The crank is super strong kinda like Super glue compared to Elmers glue and the super glue being the 4g64 cranka nd the elmers glue being the stock EVO crank. Sorry if its wrong but im just trying to put it into words all can understand. If it was me i would go with the OEM crank for the fact that it is strong as hell, Mitsu warranty, and a bit cheaper. Correct me if im wrong on anything i just said please.

CO_VR4

iTrader: (83)

O.K., I will

The stock Evo 2.0L crank is substantially stronger than the 100mm 4g64 stroker. That is because of the inherent size characteristics of the crank (the rod and main journals "overlap" more, giving more strength in the center of the crankshaft), and because the journals of the Evo crank are nitrided, while the 4g64 cranks were not designed by the factory for any turbo car applications.

As I've said before, there are a number of instances of 4g64 factory cranks used in stroker motors that have failed. There are large numbers that are just fine, too. Your luck will depend on the specific crank you have, the application, the build (radius of the crank journals and bearing fit) and numbers of other factors. It is just more likely that you'll have problems with the stroker crank than with stock 2.0L.

Mitsu does not "warranty" cranks in the sense you suggest. If you put a 100mm crank in an Evo turbo application and break it, Mitsu will not be taking care of you. For that matter, neither will most other crank manufacturers unless the damage can be traced to a materials flaw, and you're using it for the application for which they sold it.

JuanHu

anyone knows what's the part number for the OEM 4G64 crankshaft can be used in EVOLUTION 4G63??

SeanC

iTrader: (7)

Who ever said that Carrillo H beam rods cannot handle over 600whp? The Carrillo off-the-shelf rod is rated to around 1000hp.

Carrillo makes a superior rod to Manley, Crower and Oliver.

steadly2004

iTrader: (19)

Would it be in the service manual? Cause I cannot find it in here....
http://tearstone.com/eclipsefsm/GR00007100-11B.pdf

EvilEVO800hp

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=trinydex;3786740]buschur doesn't like stroking motors... he's said it before.[/QUO


buschur said his best motor is their 2.3L!!!!!!

MasterNater

iTrader: (82)

Well, a lot has changed since...2007

RunThat

iTrader: (20)

md346026

jameswwt

If we use the oem 4g64 crank on the 4g63 block and head will there be any modd required to fit the crank?

What rod and main bearings size to be use?

Can we use the oem crank oil seals and sensor on the 4g64 crank?

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

There have been a few 4G64 cranks that have broke... Most of the ones that I know of were user/machine/assembly/straightness/or cut crank problems.

I have a 4G64 crank in my car and yet to have any problems. Now I wouldn't feel comfortable pushing the stock crank over 800whp/600tq. That is just a personal limit, not a doctrinal thing that people put out. I just want to be on the safe side. I know quite a few people that have 1000whp on the stock cranks and have yet to have a problem.

I'm not scared of my setup the way it is. Trust me I have tested that crank It is still in one piece.

Mikey

jameswwt

Anyone to share???

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

Everything is a direct drop-in and play in those regards. The only time you have to get moddified parts are when using the 4G64 block. The only real internals that need to be different when using the 4G63 block is that you will need to get stroker pistons that are 1.13ch.

Hope that answers your questions.

Mikey

jameswwt

Thanks Mikey...

But dont i need to grind a bit of the 4g63 block?

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

Depends. I don't know if every block needs too. I think a lot of it depends on the rods. I would check with who is building your motor.

Mikey

jameswwt

Okie Mikey!