Manley Forged crank question
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Manley Forged crank question
Im building a 2.3 so its a 100mm crank. Ok so people say that these are weaker then the 4g64 stock crank but ive seen pics and posts about 4g64 cranks breaking and never a manley one broke? I need some opinions on how good the manley FORGED crank is. Also the reason i dont want a used 4g64 crank is because i dont want a used crank that has been turned. Also i dont want to buy a brand new OEM 4g64 crank because if im going to spend 800 dollars im going to just spend another 400 and get the manley billet crank. So how good is this forged crank for a 2.3 looking at 700whp.
#2
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Honestly go to a junk yard and get yourself a used one that hasn't been damaged out of a running motor. Have it speced out and maybe repolished. You dont have to return cranks if there is not physical damage to them just micropolished. Have the place take the detent ball out of them as well and clean the old **** out of the crank as well. Will make a world of difference and help with the life of the crank as well. It would be a cheaper option then spending a ton of cash on a forged crank. Honestly I really don't see a need for them unless you had a bad crank to begin with. I know thats not what your really asking but tring to save you some cash.
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Im building a 2.3 so its a 100mm crank. Ok so people say that these are weaker then the 4g64 stock crank but ive seen pics and posts about 4g64 cranks breaking and never a manley one broke? I need some opinions on how good the manley FORGED crank is. Also the reason i dont want a used 4g64 crank is because i dont want a used crank that has been turned. Also i dont want to buy a brand new OEM 4g64 crank because if im going to spend 800 dollars im going to just spend another 400 and get the manley billet crank. So how good is this forged crank for a 2.3 looking at 700whp.
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Well im not exactly getting a straight answer of that they are weaker. but a few very well known shops i have called and asked about a manley forged crank are telling me that the manley crank is the next best thing after a 4g64 crank. but i dont understand why if the manley has improved oiling over the 4g64 stocker. and there not saying its better because its cheaper used. they are saying it basically as brand new 4g64 crank.
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#8
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Well im not exactly getting a straight answer of that they are weaker. but a few very well known shops i have called and asked about a manley forged crank are telling me that the manley crank is the next best thing after a 4g64 crank. but i dont understand why if the manley has improved oiling over the 4g64 stocker. and there not saying its better because its cheaper used. they are saying it basically as brand new 4g64 crank.
#9
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Exactly, Eagle as a company have been junk since the early 2000's. There quality control went down hill and there products have been serpast by alot of companys. I do have a pic of one that broke in half off a buddy of mines car but that is on my old phone and I don't know how to get it off there being its shut off.
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Honestly go to a junk yard and get yourself a used one that hasn't been damaged out of a running motor. Have it speced out and maybe repolished. You dont have to return cranks if there is not physical damage to them just micropolished. Have the place take the detent ball out of them as well and clean the old **** out of the crank as well. Will make a world of difference and help with the life of the crank as well. It would be a cheaper option then spending a ton of cash on a forged crank. Honestly I really don't see a need for them unless you had a bad crank to begin with. I know thats not what your really asking but tring to save you some cash.
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id like manley over eagle because of the fact there located an hour away from me. i can go down there and beat someone with it if the machine shop tells me the machining is poor on it. i wouldnt have to fly to china
#12
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If it came out of a running car chances are that will not be a problem. But I totally understand on your thoughts of not wanting a turned crank. Alot of machine shops I have here locally will not do the extra work such as detent replacement and to get all the old sludgy oil out of the crank passages and they go ahead and turn them and when they are out of balance again from being ran they do break. But here is something to take into consideration as well. I am sure your gonna build it yourself, take the time and have it balanced once you get your rod and piston and everything else in there that will save alot of headaches as well.
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If it came out of a running car chances are that will not be a problem. But I totally understand on your thoughts of not wanting a turned crank. Alot of machine shops I have here locally will not do the extra work such as detent replacement and to get all the old sludgy oil out of the crank passages and they go ahead and turn them and when they are out of balance again from being ran they do break. But here is something to take into consideration as well. I am sure your gonna build it yourself, take the time and have it balanced once you get your rod and piston and everything else in there that will save alot of headaches as well.
#14
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I have a newer set of Eagle rods for the dsm here at my house and a old set from the 90s and when I built the motor for the talon you should see the tollerence difference between the 90s and the newer set. The tollerences in grams were like +/- .003 on the older set and the newer set was like +/- .01 and it varied from rod to rod. one would be like .01 the next would be .006 then .011 then .0075 so yeah qc has gone way down with eagles.
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ive got brand new rods and pistons sitting here. the real hard part is knowing if it came out of a running car. the junkyards over here dont let anyone go into the yard anymore so you have to call them and they take the part out for you. so idk what the hell it came out of ya know