cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

"Catch can is a catch can"??----------------------- not.


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=200793

TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

OK, so what I gather from all of that is this. You need vacuum to suck the crap out of the PCV. That is why you must run a line from the PCV to the catch can and then back to the intake manifold? That is the only reason I could see needing to connect back to the intake manifold. Otherwise you could just rely on the crank case pressure to blow the crap out and into the can. Also, the only reason it seems you need to connect to your intake tube on your intake to valve cover can set up is so you can source air for the vacuum that pulls air out of the PCV. Well in that case I would say a breather would work except it could make a mess under high boost and the sourced air would not pass through the MAF. Correct me if I am wrong here but that is basically what I have come to. All DC3 says is that a single can prevents the necessar vacuum through the PCV but doesnt really explain it. I thought about it and these are my conclusions. But correct me if I am missing something here.

TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

OK, so I thought about this some more and came to a conclusion. But first let me just say that my comment of "a catch can is a catch can" meant that you do not need the DC3 can to achieve the kind of hook up that is suggested in Fireman's link. You could run two seperate cans. However the DC3 is nice because it is two cans in one and is compact. The price seems steep to me for a homemade can but sometimes you pay for convenience. Anyway...

I think I am going to now run this same can because of this. The stock engine runs a line from the crank case to the intake manifold via the PCV valve as well as a line from the valve cover to the intake tube. I can't prove that running the RRE wont work well or that the DC3 will work better, but it makes sense to me to run the DC3 way, if for no other reason, than that is how the car comes hooked up stock. So you know it works.

This is what sold me. I like the idea of the engine sucking out the blow-by/fumes while under vacuum just like stock. I like the idea of the valve cover sourcing air via the intake tube after the MAF just like stock. For now I am in good shape to run this with my stock intake tube and APS intake. But I do plan to run the Buschur intake, UICP, and mini-battery kit along with cams this summer. So I guess I will have to weld a nipple onto the BR intake. Oh well. I would be interested to see what the likes of Dave Buschur think about this and see if he will start putting nipples on his intakes.

I am interested to see if people "see the light" as I now do or if they think this is all BS. Again, it very well might be BS but at least I have the peace of mind knowing my car is hooked up the way it was STOCK from the factory and will still catch the blow by. Just my opinion though....

raiceboi697

iTrader: (42)

i like bling a whole bunch!

TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

Then buy two catch cans. Twice the bling! Might not have baffling though. You could always put something in there to act as a condensing catalyst though I would imagine.

oldscholevo

iTrader: (2)

cusco oil catch can sucks..just got mine, and find out they only supply one hose and the hose is not long enough for the correct set up. they supply a plug because they want you to plug the nipple on the intake pipe and only use the one hose from the valve cover to the can. And the can have two nipple and you have to leave one nipple VTA. if you needed a second you have to buy another hose kit from cusco. don't buy the cusco can people.

bast525

dunno if this was mentioned in any of the five pages but you can make your own catch can for about $10-20 using parts at the hardware store. It's not pretty or bling but it works VERY well and YES it does have a filter.

I've been using one of these on my car for over a year and it catches a LOT of oil... I'd say a few tablespoons full every week. That's oil that is not getting into my intake or intercooler. It's also very easy to empty. The only downside is the O-ring seal it has stock is thin, flimsy, and isn't very oil resistant. Easy fix, I got a better O-ring at autozone for like $2, fits perfectly and is made of oil resistant rubber.

Here is a link to a how-to from another forum... he uses a MUCH more expensive one though... I found a very similiar unit made by Husky that's a bit smaller and only about $10. http://www.srtforums.com/forums/show...2420+catch+can

What it is is an air compressor filter... it's designed to put up with all kinds of corrosive materials... again... it's not pretty, but it's cheap and works GREAT... I've checked the hose that comes out of it and it is clean... no oil or residue. My intake pipe where the PCV line dumps is also clean, and my I/C is spotless. Remember, these units are actually filtered, so work better than a lot of more expensive car specific units.

I've had mine for over a year/15000 miles and it's still working perfectly with that upgraded rubber seal.

TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

Well if anybody cares, I talked to Dave Buschur and he said they dont even run catch cans on their cars as they dont really do anything on "normal" street cars. He said if anything run a hose from the valve cover down toward the ground and let it drip. Keep the PCV hooked up. If I do run a can eventually I will run it the DC3 way as I feel the vacuum from the intake manifold would be beneficial. But for now I am just going to keep things the way they are with the stock intake tube. When I get an intake, I will rig something up for the 2-can set up.

Saikou_kun

iTrader: (41)

I care.

But please tell me which hose he is telling you to drip on the ground.

TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

The one that runs off of the valve cover. Basically you do not need a catch can. The blow by that goes into the intake manifold will not lower the octane as some say to any noticeable degree and the amount of air entering the valve cover via a hose or breather filter will not mess up your idle or AFRs. But if you do feel you need a catch can then the dual set up like the DC3 is the way to go from what I have read. Although, $140 for a can (including hoses and hardware) is crazy IMO. You could make a catch can for a fraction of that but might not look as nice.

Saikou_kun

iTrader: (41)

Actually, I find your comments to be a compliment

but if I can make a clarification, what is really crazy is that if you do a 2 can setup using the traditional brands (Greddy, etc) it will cost you upwards of $180.00 to $200.00 and this doesn't include the additional hose you will need to do the proper connections.

And those ARE empty cans

240Z TwinTurbo

iTrader: (25)

It would make no sense to hook up the PCV and then run a hose to the ground. That defeats the purpose of the PCV. If your system is properly designed then it will do something regardless of whether your car is "normal" or not. Don't take everything these vendors say as gospel just because they choose to ghettofy their cars with tubes running to the ground and springs on the dipstick. Run the PCV system on the intake how it was designed from the factory. It is simple and effective when driving around off boost assuming the rest of the system is designed properly. I have not studied now the block is vented on my IX, but I did see the other valve cover runs to the turbo inlet. If you were to hook a boost gauge to your turbo inlet you should see it pulling vacuum under full boost, not much but some. When designing your PCV system you need to take advantage of the vacuum created on the turbo inlet and use this to help evacuate the block. I posted picture before of the PCV I did on my TT240Z and the TTZR1 Corvette, but it was deleted.

The TTZR1 retains a modified stock PCV valve to the intake manifold. This is not new and something I discussed in detail with Graham B. at Lingenfelter when I designed this turbo setup. 7.5psi of boost generated ~3in-mg at the sealed catch can.

Here is the line running to the block


That line then runs to the sealed catch can that is hooked to the turbo inlets. BTW, it is just a modified Morosso catch can with a fitting welded to the top instead of the open filter. BTW, the line on the top runs to the turbo inlet and the line on the side hooks to the block. If oil is drawn into the can on the side it hits an internal baffle and falls to the bottom. Ideally, you want the can to drain back into the pan with a one way valve on it so it doesn't suck oil from the pan under boost. This system will require that you drain from time to time if oil accumulates.

TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

I agree and will probably wind up ordering a can from you eventually. Sometimes you pay for convenience. Meaning, I could make one but dont have the time. Maybe you could hook a brutha up.

TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

240ZTwinTurbo:

I think you need to reread my posts. I never said to run a hose from the PCV to the ground. I said that Dave Buschur suggests running a hose from the valve cover to the ground and keep the PCV hooked up like factory. I also would put a breather filter on the end of that hose just to keep anything out. I didnt read every single word of your post but the first paragraph basically just said what I said a few weeks ago.

240Z TwinTurbo

iTrader: (25)

No need to read your post again. The hose that runs to the ground is normally hooked to the turbo inlet, atleast on my IX it is. So the PCV in that case is drawing metered air. I still have yet to see how the block is vented. Unless I am missing something, running a hose to the ground will cause the PCV to introduce unmetered air during off boost situations. That may or may not present a notable problem for the fuel maps while at idle and cruising.

That is not the real issue, I would argue that venting the hose to atmosphere will negate the benefit of even hooking up the PCV to the intake manifold. The block will never be able to generate vacuum when vented to atmosphere and the best you can hope to achieve is atmospheric pressure.

The turbo inlet is used for a reason, because it generates vacuum under boost and that will help to evacuate the block. If you have to put a damn spring on the dipstick then you are addressing the symptom and not the problem.

This is all food for thought so there is no reason for anyone to get upset. I would love to see some company, even Buschur, develop a good PCV setup and show that it works. You only need a vacuum gauge to see if the system that is designed is generating vacuum or at least neutral pressure under boost. BTW, I have a good friend with a turbo mustang, 7.7@190, that uses a belt driven vacuum pump because the block pressure gets too high. From everything I have read a properly designed PCV is worth some hp.