Yes thank you for getting me those readouts, I REALLY appriciate it. Because of your actions I will continue doing buisness there. But I saw with my own eyes on the screen that the card did do 270ish, I just cant remember specifics. I belive Mitch was the tuners name, maybe he didnt save the run in the computer or something, I really dont know how it all works. I remember becuase we both where looking at the screen and he even said "Well, the car is making good power, about 270(somthing) just the damn wavy boost is messing with the power curve." And Im pretty sure it reads lower than other dynos, thus the nickname he coined "the hearbreaker".

 

No problem, and thanks!

The dyno does read low compared to a lot of dynos (in our area anyway) because we get a lot of people coming from other dynos for a comparison. It's VERY accurate from run to run for our A/B comparisons though.

Now....what the screen reads and what gets printed out is sometimes a little different. More than likely the "smoothing" was set high as you probably had some erratic lines with the boost leak you were experiencing. So to get a nice line it takes the high and low points in a small area and "smooths" it out. Usually not more than 4whp or so unless it was really erratic...I hope that answers a few questions. We can look at the run with the smoothing off to see what the peak was. Just an FYI. Now let's figure out where you are losing your boost and fix it.

 

Yea if you get time it would be kinda cool to see the readout with out the "smoothing", but whenever you get time, its not a big deal. Thanks for clearing that up.



The main reason why I posted this on here is to see if anyone could figure it out. Im really hoping its just the BOV, but we will see soon.

 

Ok, but it's by no means a heartbreaker. 332whp is far from heartbreaking when you only trap 105. Actually, trapping 105 is pretty heartbreaking in this case:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...65#post3860365

332whp on the Buschur MD would be 115+ mph traps...

 

Hey Warrtalon, any ideas as to why the boost is pulsing like that? Have you ever seen an evo do this before? Just curious to see what your opinion is on it. Let me know if you can. Thanks.

 

I wish I knew, but it has me baffled, too. I don't think it's the BOV, because plenty of people have dyno'd on the stock BOV and looked fine, so it's not a normal characteristic of the POS stock BOV, but that doesn't mean your stock BOV didn't break or something. Could be something to do with the WG arm, too.

I've never seen a boost profile like that, but you can definitely see the power curves follow the boost fluctuations - weird. Also, what is that green line at the bottom? That isn't your AFR curve is it? Why is it flat during the first half, but then it steadily climbs after that?

 

I hope its not the waste gate(actuator?). That seems like a pain to get to, and costly to replace, since its i doubt i could do myself. Anywho, I dont think its the AFR, it just says: WS Rel Hum (%). No idea what that stands for. I remeber the AFR curve starting high, and then kinda of slowly going down. Maybe Bdiddy might catch this thread again and know what it is.

I did however put in a Forge EVO15(the ones that came in red and blue) last night, there was a NOTICABLE difference in how the car felt, it seemed to pull alot harder in 2nd and 3rd WOT. I dont have a boost guage yet so i couldnt really see if it helped this problem. But of course the BOV fluttered, sputtered, bucked, etc so i put the stock one back on for now until I get more time to tune it with the different springs and what not. I wish I woulda just got the metal MR one though, the forge is a pain really.

 

You don't have a boost gauge????????????? WTF, man, you can't put on mods and drive without a boost gauge. Argh!!! Do not boost again until you have a boost gauge - I can't believe that. It's very dangerous, because for all you know, you could be hitting 25+psi now if the old BOV was broken. I know you put the stocker back on, but still, you should never drive a modded Evo without a boost gauge - not ever.

Nah, changing the WGA is not expensive and not difficult. The only bad part is you can't get to it with the heat shields in place, and even if the heat shields are removed, it's tough to fit your hands and tools in there without removing the radiator. Removing the radiator isn't hard, though, but it can be messy.

 

Wow, i had no idea it was that important. I figured the MBC would keep the boost levels in check. I guess that will go to the top of my "To Do List".

As far as the WG stuffs, I probly just have to bring it in and have them mess with it. Would it be easier to get to it under the car? Otherwise I could probly do it myself. Cause man that would suck to take it somewhere, pay all that laybor and buy the parts for that not to be the problem. Thanks for all the info/advice though Warr.

 

The boost gauge is the single most important and critical mod on an Evo. No other mods should ever be installed before putting on the boost gauge. The MBC by no means can keep the boost levels in check, because if other conditions change on the car, the boost changes, too. The MBC just controls the boost at a certain level only if nothing else changes. In cold weather, the boost rises, and we have to turn it down. The opposite occurs in hot weather. Replacing a broken BOV with a strong one could cause overboosting, and with your flash, your fuel cut (for overboosting) is likely disabled.

It maybe easier from underneath, but the WGA is still close to the radiator, which makes it hard to maneuver in such a small space.

 

Guess I'l drop everything and get the boost gage then. I hate to ask all these noob questions, but as far as putting one in, its just power/ground and a line to the turbo? Can i just go off of the lines from the MBC? When putting that BOV in last night, I can now see where the MBC lines are going too. Or is there an electronic one that you can do, so you dont have to run a line into the engine bay? OR should i just leave this to the pros to install. I have years of car audio experence, so runing lines through the car and the power/ground isnt a problem. Im good at reading directions too. :P

 

Buy a Hallman and then follow the instrucions in the How To/Installations section of the forums. It is very easy..

 

I can not beleive Vivid let you leave their shop with out putting a boost gauge in.

 

He's asking about the gauge installation, not the MBC installation. He already has an MBC installed.

Loaked, there should be a write-up here on EvoM. If you are apologizing for posting something, then there's a good bet that you can find your answer by searching before asking...

 

That dyno does not read low (heartbreaker) . It actually reads like a dynojet.
You want heartbreaker use Myne's dyno.

But you should get a boost gauge, you need to know how much your boosting.