Blow off valve testing, it really works!
Ok, so I have the forge DV with the blue spring currently in. I'm running stock boost but really don't like the noise it's making. I have a red spring, green, and yellow. In order to make the sound less of a skreetch- which spring should I load in there and how many shims?
I've read most of these threads but couldn't find a conclusive answer to which spring will cause the least amount of purging.
I've read most of these threads but couldn't find a conclusive answer to which spring will cause the least amount of purging.
Originally Posted by Enyth
If i add a blow-off valve, would this void my warranty? ive searched on the site and someone alrdy asked this, but no one responded. thanks 

im not sure if anyone asked this yet but....when doing the single spring mod, does that get rid of the fluttering and give the BOV a chirp sound? example: fast and the furious Eclipse's blow off(Hated that movie haha)
The sound is not like a shirp at all... Sounds kind of like a horse doing that exhailing thing with it's lips lol... Honestly that's what it sounds like.. It's not a direct "swoosh"..
At this point I think it's ok after switching to the yellow spring but it still doesn't feel very smooth. I may try and sell it to someone who doesn't plan on modding thier car. Before the intake it was perfect. Once the intake went on it started to feel different.
I want an MR BOV.
At this point I think it's ok after switching to the yellow spring but it still doesn't feel very smooth. I may try and sell it to someone who doesn't plan on modding thier car. Before the intake it was perfect. Once the intake went on it started to feel different.
I want an MR BOV.
Originally Posted by smp3000
The sound is not like a shirp at all... Sounds kind of like a horse doing that exhailing thing with it's lips lol... Honestly that's what it sounds like.. It's not a direct "swoosh"..
Stock valve back on and even though boost leaks at WOT- It's at least not surging anymore. Feels much smoother and I spool faster.
It's not that the FORGE valve is bad you just have to find the right shim + spring combo for your mods. I was impatient and just bought an MR valve. The FORGE valve is up for sale on ebay.
It's not that the FORGE valve is bad you just have to find the right shim + spring combo for your mods. I was impatient and just bought an MR valve. The FORGE valve is up for sale on ebay.
just wondering... greddy type s have to nipples.. the big one on the upper part is for vacumm hose right? what bout the lower smaller and slightly long nipples does? i leave it uncapp would capping it better or uncap it?? wat it does? hope anyone could help@
thanks!!
thanks!!
Originally Posted by lil'evil_evo
I'm still a newbie to bov's. Can someone explain to me why my revs jump up while shifting? I know it has to do with the bov because it just started when I installed the Greddy type-s. At first I only turned the adjustment screw 3 full turns and it did not happen, but boost was not holding???? So I tried to tighten the screw and now the revs jump up only when getting on it. By the way I still don't hold boost. I have a Greddy profec b spec II so I know I need to mess around with the tuning on that as well. For now my concern is holding boost 20-21 psi and not having the revs jump. Any info would help thanks.
In between shifts, high boost, I get a rev jump of about 300RPM then it holds there in time for my other gear... lol , and my next gear pretty much kicks it down, All this while i hear the cool sharp high pitched sound (it'd actually be very helpful during a race)
I like how it is right now, but is this a bad sign? It's very convient, and the flutter is not loud at all.


