i have finally solved my forge dv problems.
answer: i just added more boost with an MBC. i didn't mess with the springs or added any shims. still rocking the blue spring. now i have a problem with it being tooo damnnn louddd~

FORGE is a great DV holds boost like a champ.

 

Silver Surfer,

First, thanks for all the great info. Excellent thread and exactly the kind of technical information I look for on this forum.

Well, I finally got the Type-S DV and installed it as described in the above link (Single spring).

Do you have yours adjusted all the way out or 2-3 full turns after the adjustment screw makes contact with the spring base plate as the above link recommends?

I have mine adjusted in 2-3 turns and have experienced some low rpm idle problems at traffic lights. Should decreasing the tension adjustment remedy this problem or should I look somewhere else?

Currently running 264/272 cams @ +3 degrees, turbo back 3" with hi-flo cat, and Vishnu Xede w/Stage 1+ 93 octane map.

Thanks,

 

The valve should be fine with that adjustment, considering your modifications I would definiately look elsewhere. I am running 272/272's with gears and a Power FC and it idles and drives perfectly. Of course the cams required some significant idle fuel adjustments. If your not sure if there is something wrong with your valve, you could always reinstall the stock valve for testing.

You mentioned +3 degrees for your cam gears, did you mean -3 degrees? The general consensus and my own experience is that retarding the cams slightly has a positive affect on performance.
To get the car to idle properly with cams you need to add a lot of fuel at idle without affecting the timing. This is easy to do with a standalone, I am not sure if that is entirely possible with the stock ECU/piggy back? Especially if the stock ECU goes into closed loop mode at idle? Ask Shiv about that.

 

Yes, I meant -3 degrees timing on the cams. It was idling fine prior to installing the Type-S. I am going to reset the factory ECU and give it another try before making any changes. If there are still issues I will swap back to the stock unit and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, I will then examine the Type-S for correct reassembly, adjustment, and/or leaks.

Thanks

 

stock valves really do suck when you add boost. saw one lose boost on the dyno last night...thank god i brought my forge...its awesome and makes a great sound (full recirc)

 

Eric,

What was you final solution concerning the lower fitting, capped or open?

Thanks

 

What kind of boost are you guys running with the Greddy/TxS/etc bov's, or should I ask, what is the max you have ran it with and had a consistant boost reading? I've used the 1g crushed valve for up to nearly 25 pounds with no problem, and some have commented that you can run even higher.

I'm interested in hearing some results with aftermarket valves running higher boost than stock levels, 19-22ish. I'm running 21.5 straight to redline, no problem with the stocker, so I see no need to change it at this current point.

 

Leave it open.

You are correct, the stock DV and all of these other valves can handle as much boost as you could possibly want to make with this engine. Unless maybe there is somthing wrong with the valve or it is improperly installed.

This is one of the biggest misconceptions that is constantly perpetuated in here. I wrote the following quote on the previous page of this thread. READ IT, think about it, use a little common sense. Then try to explain to me how or why a DV/BOV (stock configuration) could start openning at 25 or even 30-40 PSI for that matter.

The stock valve can handle plenty of boost, up until the plastic gives out (don't know how much boost it takes to do that). The only reason I replaced the stock DV is because it has a very small leak from the plastic on plastic valve seal. It is not even enough to affect boost levels IMO, but it is a leak wasting a small amount of the turbos output. I measured a solid 3WHP increase by using a valve that seals better. I also found that by softening the spring tension (lower than stock) the drivability improved as well.

If you route manifold pressure to the bottom of the actuator (lower fitting) as some vendors recommend, well then all bets are off. In that situation your relying soley on the spring tension to keep the valve closed. Once you go above that tension value the valve will start to open,most DV/BOV's are not setup this way, especially for the EVO, with it's relatively high boost levels.

 

More great information SILVER, always a big help.

I agree. I have not noticed any problems what so ever with my stock DV, but some have commented on the valve seals leaking a bit. I honestly haven't noticed any sort of leak yet (knock on wood, I suppose).

I installed a Greddy on a few other Evo's and also did the small spring mod. Works great. I haven't yet been able to see how much boost the Greddy can consistantly hold without the smaller spring, but it is definitely smooth. If I ever get some extra cash, I might have to get one for myself. Maybe I have too much DSM in me, but I swear by 1g's just because of their effectiveness for such a great price.

Either way, great info in this thread.

 

BOV aint good.. it REALLY messses up your MAS, and makes hurts the engine big time.

 

Idle fuel adjustments have been made since the cams were installed and there have been no problems with the stock DV. I reinstalled the stock DV and everything is fine again. Something is not working properly with the Greddy. I disassembled it again to ensure there was nothing wrong inside and all looked fine. I am not sure what else to look for in the valve. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

John,

If your having stalling problems when comming to a stop that indicates that the valve is not openning, or at least not enough. Try backing the adjustment screw out more and make sure the actuator chamber is not leaking. If you could get a hand vacum pump ($15 at most auto part stores), you should see the valve start to open around 16 in/hg, and the actuator chamber should hold vacum. If it's not working properly I bet this test will fail.

Good luck, regards,

Eric

 

Eric,

I agree that it is probably leaking. I am leaving for couple of weeks so the vacuum test will have to wait until my return. I'll let you know how it works out.

Thanks,

 

I just got Greddy-S today (i did single spring mod right away) and turned the screw almost all the way out -installed (went for a spin)
Iam really happy the car pulls harder....

I did test it:

Stock Bov (leaks sloooow spoolup)
HKS SSQ (VTA rpm drop - REC. ? still some rpm drop)
Forge VTA: (rpm drop no metter which spring you go)
TurboXS (sure thing its loud -rpm drop - why you should run vta with less performance)

greddy-s rec. (the best bov for evo imo)

later.

 

Hey guys, this is my first post on this forum, just picked up my lady on tuesday ;] neway, just by observing how many people have the greddy type S bov and said it works for the most part better than stock, it seems like that would be the best way to go... i was just curious as to how loud it was, cause as many of you are, i m a huge fan of that psssshhhhttt sound ;] but i would sure as hell never want to lose performance or have any more leakage than stock just to have a nice sound... basically, how does greddy perform against stock? it almost seems that you should just stick with stock, just because it works so well with the car, minus the fact that it's plastic on plastic... is that a valid conclusion?

--KiD