I would say follow Farmers advice; check them at 50 miles, 300.... Mainly because everyone dogs the 1 by 1 method so much.

 

ok well today i beet the **** out of the car. seems as of right now it is holding up.

thursday im going to pull the cover off and check the trq settings again to make sure everything is still in good spec

 

please keep us updated, check all the way around the head gasket, its pretty common for on oil leak to occur on the back of the motor between the block and the head.

 

ok. will do
but as of right now. nothing

 

Exactly what mine is doing, wish the previous owner wouldn't have changed them.

Will pulling the VC and retorquing them help this?

 

your head gasket will be fine, until they become loose because you didnt take off the head..

 

Torquing the ARPs to 85+ ft-lbs basically makes them a 1 time use item as it stretches them into yielding.

I've done the 1 at a time replacement on a 2G DSM. The car made 450 WHP on race fuel and 380 WHP on pump gas daily driven. I'm not too sure they really needed to be replaced at that level though. The stock bolts are reasonably good. I plan on just leaving them alone on my Evo until I lift the head and have to replace them. When I do them, they will be L-19 studs and not ARPs though.

 

it wont hurt..

 

give it a few months. that's how long it took for mine to start leaking.

 

I don't care what you guys do, the one by one method is a gamble. Ask any knowledgable mechanic. Some of you just got lucky. I would do it the right way if I were doing mine.

 

I have a question, what else is done when taking the head off? Meaning, what more do you do then just using the 1 by 1 method?

 

that makes no sense.. a head gasket doesnt help hold the head down..

 

Im just going to do cams valvesprings and headstuds all at the same time so my engine dosnt break good luck with the 1 by 1 method i herd it was a bad idea but 90% of people talk out of there butt any how.

 

some people think that changing a perfectly head gasket with a new head gasket is what has to be done.. its one of things that either the person has no idea what there talking about, or when they did a stud change they didnt do the job right, or didnt recheck em.. on v8's i would pullt he head when changing too studs, but that was because the heads were easy to pull, and some of the studs went through water passages, so that ment you would have to clean the threads out, so there wasnt any leaking.. our motors dont have studs that are in water.. other dsm motors did..

 

So are you saying that when people pull the head to do the studs, they change the head gasket and thats it? I thought they would literally pull the head, swap the studs and put the head back on, done. Thats why that makes no sense to me when comparing the two.

Even if they just change the head gasket and put everything back together it still doesn't make a lot of sense, just seems to make a lot more work.