ARP head stud install. 1by1 the right way
Feb 6, 2007, 09:39 PM
#33
Evolved Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NNJ
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
please keep us updated, check all the way around the head gasket, its pretty common for on oil leak to occur on the back of the motor between the block and the head.
Feb 7, 2007, 12:18 AM
#37
Torquing the ARPs to 85+ ft-lbs basically makes them a 1 time use item as it stretches them into yielding.
I've done the 1 at a time replacement on a 2G DSM. The car made 450 WHP on race fuel and 380 WHP on pump gas daily driven. I'm not too sure they really needed to be replaced at that level though. The stock bolts are reasonably good. I plan on just leaving them alone on my Evo until I lift the head and have to replace them. When I do them, they will be L-19 studs and not ARPs though.
I've done the 1 at a time replacement on a 2G DSM. The car made 450 WHP on race fuel and 380 WHP on pump gas daily driven. I'm not too sure they really needed to be replaced at that level though. The stock bolts are reasonably good. I plan on just leaving them alone on my Evo until I lift the head and have to replace them. When I do them, they will be L-19 studs and not ARPs though.
Feb 7, 2007, 05:37 PM
#40
Evolved Member
I don't care what you guys do, the one by one method is a gamble. Ask any knowledgable mechanic. Some of you just got lucky. I would do it the right way if I were doing mine.
Feb 7, 2007, 05:43 PM
#43
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Greenbay
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im just going to do cams valvesprings and headstuds all at the same time so my engine dosnt break good luck with the 1 by 1 method i herd it was a bad idea but 90% of people talk out of there butt any how.
Feb 7, 2007, 05:46 PM
#44
Former Vendor
iTrader: (107)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: A.K.A. DaFarmer
Posts: 4,364
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
some people think that changing a perfectly head gasket with a new head gasket is what has to be done.. its one of things that either the person has no idea what there talking about, or when they did a stud change they didnt do the job right, or didnt recheck em.. on v8's i would pullt he head when changing too studs, but that was because the heads were easy to pull, and some of the studs went through water passages, so that ment you would have to clean the threads out, so there wasnt any leaking.. our motors dont have studs that are in water.. other dsm motors did..
Feb 7, 2007, 07:25 PM
#45
Fomer Vendor
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central FL
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So are you saying that when people pull the head to do the studs, they change the head gasket and thats it? I thought they would literally pull the head, swap the studs and put the head back on, done. Thats why that makes no sense to me when comparing the two.
Even if they just change the head gasket and put everything back together it still doesn't make a lot of sense, just seems to make a lot more work.
Even if they just change the head gasket and put everything back together it still doesn't make a lot of sense, just seems to make a lot more work.