correct 26/27 pounds on the snow methanol injection kit

with the turbo xs the car is tapering much later. i dont have a log of it.

but from looking at the gauge im getting probably another 1300-1600 rpm's of higher boost.

 

i see they sell replacement diaphrams for them. is that something that needs to be often my friend hasn't needed to replace his yet after 8 months of having it?

i have a friend with an rs with the recirc kit. he's mailing me his to try for a few days. hopefully ill like it and pick that up.

thanks!

 

so back to the topic....

should i expect the jerk from anything stiffer than stock? or could it be just this bov since its a p.o.s.

 

Well, sorry, but the weakness of the BOV does not affect taper really. Not sure why that would change.

 

FWIW, Right now, I have an 9 metal valve hooked up to a regulator with 30psi on the vacuum line and valve pressure side and its not leaking. However, when it's bolted up to the car there is more pressure on the valve side than the vac line side due to pressure drop.

 

Does anybody know if applying too much pressure will rip the diaphragm? I have 110psi worth of line pressure. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good valve.

 

I see a lot of these BOV flutter threads. I actually am experiencing the same thing when I roll into the throttle slow on the highway. Will switching the BOV a million times do any good or is the main culprit the LICP that needs the nipple? By the way, once you hook up to the nipple where does that line connect? I have the Tee setup now on my stock 9 BOV.

 

No, you just can't do part-throttle/partial boost on the Evo with a strong BOV. It's either on or off. It's not an issue of connections.

 

BTW.. mine flutters and its a 9 valve, recir. You can barely, and I mean barely hear it! It's probably something that your car has done all along, you just haven't noticed it. So just because it flutters when starting to roll on the throttle doesn't mean there is something wrong. One thing you have to remember. The car was never intended to have a VTA BOV. If you consider sound to be performance, then I guess it adds to the performance. But I'm sure this has been covered here a million times.

The nipple is just the pressure source only for the factory BC. It has nothing to do with the CBV. The CBV can't properly function with just a pressure source. It needs vacuum to function properly.

If you had recirculating valves, it wouldn't matter because the air has been accounted for and will end up being consumed into the engine. With the VTA, the air has been accounted for, fuel is being added, but the air mass is being released into the atmosphere, leaving you with a rich condition.

am I getting off topic?

 

So there is no way to stop that flutter other than learning/avoiding it?

Buschur sent me another BOV to try but I don't want to be switching back and forth with the stock unit is the best.

 

did u ever check to see if u had a boost leak?

 

I've always ran a recirc. valve regardless if it was the stock one, greddy type S or Type R. My cars have always seemed to run smoother this way, flutter or no flutter.
I know this doesn't really answer your question... but,, take it into consideration.

 

doesn't affect taper at 7k its gonna be where it is regardless. but usually my taper starts about 4900ish with the stocker.. with the turbo xs it starts at 5500ish.

i haven't had a chance to get a good look. but a friend who was watching the gauge close than i was while i was driving said i was reaching full boost about 50 rpms faster

 

thats what im thinking and hoping.. since this vents thats probably part of the issue. ill have the greddy in a few days to test and see how it drives. hopefully itll be a good alternative to the stocker and forge. if not then i'll stick with the stocker until the tial comes out. then i'll give that a try since thats what one of the more favored bov's. it will only be better recirc

 

I can't tell from your sig, but are you running a different turbo? If you are on teh stocker, keep the stock diverter valve.