Ok, with that in mind, how do you get up a hill on the highway in 5th gear without downshifting to 4th? My car did not always do this, it just started the other week...

I understand the concept of partial boost in high gears, that makes sense. But there has to be a fix, or does everybody, even aem and tial users have this same problem? If so then nevermind, there is no fix

 

i put the greddy rs in today with the recirc... its perfect..

car is as smooth as stock and holding boost better...

im going to order my own this week

cheers!

 

I would take off that bov and have a look inside and check all the lines to both valves. Sounds like something has changed since it used to work right. With the dejon SL the bov should stay partly open till you hit 15 PSI boost. I've only had mine for about 8 months but it works like a charm for me, car drives like a na car till you kick it in the ***.

 

And cfdfirman is from ....... Chicago - seen any hills recently?

The flutter we are describing is most obvious (and annoying) when going up long or steep hills. I think there are a number of tuners who maybe have never even experienced it before (IL, OH - both are pretty flat).

I ordered the Forge adjustable this morning, if it works I will have to sell my stock IX metal one to someone who doesn't drive on hills and thinks they are the best BOV you can get (even though they have no adjustments at all).

Andy

 

ok, so I switched my vaccume source going to the pilot switch on the dejon kit back to the bov return (I drilled and tapped the intercooler pipe) and now its back to normal....no flutter at all.....I couldnt be happier...that was annnoying as hell!

 

You knew it would. Dejon FTW.

And good luck on the Forge Andy. Let us know how that works out for you. And yes I've seen hills ever drive in south central WI or on a track with long 60 MPH sweepers?

 

My only concern is the amount of air that the 1g valve can flow. Like the Tial is a 50mm. Does anybody know what the 1g is rated at? Also, how important is how much air the BOV diverts/reroutes?

I understand that the purpose of the BOV is to keep the air from rushing back into the turbo, causing it to stop very suddenly and spin backwards as the air is coming back from hitting the closed throttle plate and into the turbo outlet. But when should you consider one of the bigger (IE. Tial 50mm), if its even THAT important?

 

No hills in Ohio and Ill?! I'm guessing you've never been out this way. It is VERY hilly in much of Ohio.
BTW, I have the same issue with the Forge RS when going up hills or getting in part throttle and letting off. It is VERY annoying.
Kmcconn9...maybe you can give a detailed write up on what you did to make the Forge dv work correctly. Pics and details would be great. Sounds like we need the Dejon kit and to run our vacuum source from a specific location.

 

^^ He got rid of the Forge to make it work.

 

has anyone tried that Leak stop kit...

ok im kinda confused here...are we talking about say half way into boost and then letting off and it flutters...(i thought that was normal)

or...are we talking about full boost and then let off and it flutters...

or...are we talking at full boost the BOV is fluttering?

i just want to get this straight... i know this wasnt what you really posted for but im trying to get an idea...

my buddies tial works great but he is running some serious numbers...and i really havent looked into it cause im putting on a T04R in a few months so im going straight to a Tial..
but i am very curious to see what happens when you find the right BOV. cause my car flutters with the JDM/MR BOV with partial boost. but i was told that was normal...if not is it hurting anything?

 

Does anyone know how much boost an OEM Metal MR BOV will hold before it leaks? From what I understand it is 28PSI, I could be wrong.

 

No I never bought the forge as it had too many adjustments to make. The 1g valve, with the leak stop kit is the perfrect solution. No springs to adjust. No adjustment screw. No piston to lubricate...it simply works...

All I did was switch my source going to the pilot switch in the leak stop kit from the intercooler pipe back to the bov line...

Looks like you can have a stiff/non oem bov that holds twice the amount of boost with a bigger turbo and do part throttle all day....although I dont know why you would

 

I have the leak stop kit as do many fellow dsm's and it works perfectly!

As for the fluttering most everybody is talking about, well that can be described as follows.

Put the car in 5th gear and attempt to go up an aggressive hill (average speed starting out would be around 60-70) using part throttle acceleration (not enough to build full boost, but enough to start spooling the turbo..

Then the "fluttering" begins...very annoying

Solution: Get the 1g valve and the leak stop kit..

 

^^ ^^ And read the instruction when you install it. LOL

 

From the Djon website.


We tested the 1g BOV (Air Bypass Valve) for leakage three ways: 1. Stock 2. Crushed 3. Crushed with Seal Kit Mods. The test fixture was a 7gal (.966 cu ft) air tank with a flange welded on the top. We mounted the BOV and filled the tank to 30psi, then used a stopwatch to time the leakage and recorded time vs psi as it leaked. Then we pressurized the tank with the modded valve to 50psi and IT HELD! Leakage was only .060 SCFM The data is below: