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Three holes in the firewall

Old Feb 7, 2007 | 05:57 PM
  #16  
Evil_1's Avatar
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From: Land of 10,000 Lakes
Originally Posted by Aux.
Nahhh, it's not for a system. I put the battery in the trunk to make room in the hood area for the UICP and intake setup i got (plus i wanted to keep my full size battery......something about a mini battery doesn't sit right with me). But not to long ago my car was dead, and i mean completely dead NOTHING. It ended up being the ground i had (which was in ther rear).
What UICP and intake are you running? I run a batter half the size of the stock batter and there's plenty of room for aftermarket UICP and Intake. No problems here with starting the car even when it's -10 below.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 06:18 PM
  #17  
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Running the "smaller" and "lighter" guage wire from Trunk ground to Engine bay ground increases the grounding potential of the chassis ..and isolates any ground potential difference between the front and aft of the chassis. I would venture to guess that the many peices used in our Unibody chassis might have Gaps in them causing weaker potential between the front and back...and i think many car companys know this..thats why the batt is stuffed up front in most cars that and shorter wires.

So im thinking the OP is best off not running a 2 or 0 guage wire the length of the car just for a ground..and dependant on how much the back of the car might suck as a solid ground..then look into a smaller guage wire to run up front. But you a$$ out on the size and length of the +positive lead..that has to be done right.

the alternator and ignition plays a factor in this also, lets not forget plz

Last edited by BiFfMaN; Feb 7, 2007 at 07:41 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 06:24 PM
  #18  
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btw OP your a Aircraft Electrical and Environmental Systems Craftsman ( 7-level) for the AF...you should already know some of the principles...yes i fully understand your sig...
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 06:31 PM
  #19  
ries's Avatar
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I always thought you wanted the ground to be as short as possible to the chassis??? I plan on doing a diy battery relocation to the trunk and grounding w/ 0 ga wire straight to the chassis as close as possible....then up front make a 4 ga diy ground kit w/ the neg wire from the battery integrated into it.

Hopefully it works...lol
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 06:39 PM
  #20  
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From: Oradell, NJ
Let me start off by saying I am no electrical engineer...

I moved my battery to the trunk, I kept the ground wire as short as possible (less than 9" long), and soldered the terminals for both the positive and ground wires.

I have had no problems with amperage going to the starter or voltage throughout the electrical system.

My voltage gauge regularly reads above 14volts, and my data logs show 13.7 volts at higher RPMs and 14.0 volts at lower load levels.

My recommendation is to Google the internet for more information about installation tips, and sanctioning body requirements if you want to race.


P.S. Regarding your signature... ...from sabers to satellites... correct?

Last edited by my-red-rs; Feb 7, 2007 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 07:00 PM
  #21  
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I don't believe most engineers think of soldering terminals in cars or airplanes as de rigueur.

nevertheless it does feel good
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