Intercooler information..........
Originally Posted by Evo442
Great post, thanks! Confirms some suspicions of mine... I learned long ago how important it is to clean that blowby oil off the maf sensor on our evo's. Doing so really eliminated some tuning problems for me. I did not have an oil catch can for a while and I've wondered what the inside of my intercooler looks like.
My evo is tuned for the track. When I datalog, and do individual 3rd gear pulls, everything looks great. When I do a wot pull, haul down on the brakes, and then another wide open pull (ie simulating track conditions), my afr's get really rich. I've asked around and attributed this to heat soak, but I wonder if the efficiency of my intercooler is way down. (55 k miles, 20+ track days). I guess I should log intake temps as noted above. Hopefully evoscan does this
My evo is tuned for the track. When I datalog, and do individual 3rd gear pulls, everything looks great. When I do a wot pull, haul down on the brakes, and then another wide open pull (ie simulating track conditions), my afr's get really rich. I've asked around and attributed this to heat soak, but I wonder if the efficiency of my intercooler is way down. (55 k miles, 20+ track days). I guess I should log intake temps as noted above. Hopefully evoscan does this
EvoScan Intake temps are measured at the MAF which is pre-intercooler and pre-turbo Look in your intake piping.. its just after the filter. Any oil on your maf probably came from a overly oiled drop in filter vs. blowby.
Last edited by Mr. Evo IX; Feb 25, 2007 at 02:14 PM.
I meant don't put Greased Lighting on polished aluminum. It is awesome on cleaning but will take the shine right off of it if it is polished.
I do not run a catch can, I run both hoses off the valve cover down and "under" the car. I would like to build a catch can similar to the one that Crawford makes for the Subarus but there is no good way to do it.
I do not run a catch can, I run both hoses off the valve cover down and "under" the car. I would like to build a catch can similar to the one that Crawford makes for the Subarus but there is no good way to do it.
If I were to eliminate my oil catch can and vent both hoses "under" the car like you do, will I need to retune the car?
David, what obstacles are we looking at hear preventing such a wonderful solution? A fully closed loop catch/separator system would go over huge in the evo community in my mind.
so cleaning it and putting in a catch can will preven from cleaning it again. ?
Also, I love greased lightning.
I use it on my rear bumper near my exhaust when I get my soot on the bump. Works wonders. However, make sure you keep that area waxed right after and don't leave it on too long.
Also, I love greased lightning.
I use it on my rear bumper near my exhaust when I get my soot on the bump. Works wonders. However, make sure you keep that area waxed right after and don't leave it on too long.
keep grease lightning away from your IC. The protective oxide layer that protects the base aluminum metal is easily dissolved by it, and the NaOH goes straight to attack the metal liberating hydrogen gas.
http://www2.uni-siegen.de/~pci/versu...sh/v44-10.html
http://www2.uni-siegen.de/~pci/versu...sh/v44-10.html
To get back on the topic of power productions, from the original post, how much power was that drop in intake temps worth Dave? It's effect on knock? I'm still gaining a lot of intake temp, a 1-4 gear pull is picking up 50 degrees, which is much more than the already high ~35 degrees we saw on the dyno, and it's knocking in 3rd and 4th. This is an old DSM trick that I too completely forgot about, as I mentioned earlier. I also mentioned while at your shop that it didn't pick up this much temp when I first installed it, 10-15 degrees. I'm wondering if I'll pick up any appreciable power from this. If the knock goes away and I get my timing back I don't see how it couldn't.
Saturday is supposed to be warmer. If I get any indication that this is a worthy chase I'll completely bollix my night shift work schedule and clean the IC, then test for temp rise and knock. I don't want to banjax a 13 hour night shift for 4 whp though.
Saturday is supposed to be warmer. If I get any indication that this is a worthy chase I'll completely bollix my night shift work schedule and clean the IC, then test for temp rise and knock. I don't want to banjax a 13 hour night shift for 4 whp though.
