Important Question about cams
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From: Upstate, SC
Important Question about cams
Hey people!
Some may have read my other post in other sections, but now I am looking for specific technical assistance.
Mod list: http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...b-1fa9cbf87548
My issue is when I am starting my car, I get the sound of sucking air (like a broken timing belt) BUT if I crack the throttle slightly, it will start. I also had an issue with it idling, but I had to bump the idle speed up to 1000-1100 so it would run with out assistance from me. I have check the timing, dead perfect. I am tuned for cams.
I was told by someone that the cam could be 180 degrees out, but that didnt make sense to me. The dowel pins are only on one side of the cam and the factory cam gear only has one hole for the pin. So how could it be installed 180 out if the white mark on the gear is in the correct position for the timing marks on the valve cover?
Any suggestions?
Some may have read my other post in other sections, but now I am looking for specific technical assistance.
Mod list: http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...b-1fa9cbf87548
My issue is when I am starting my car, I get the sound of sucking air (like a broken timing belt) BUT if I crack the throttle slightly, it will start. I also had an issue with it idling, but I had to bump the idle speed up to 1000-1100 so it would run with out assistance from me. I have check the timing, dead perfect. I am tuned for cams.
I was told by someone that the cam could be 180 degrees out, but that didnt make sense to me. The dowel pins are only on one side of the cam and the factory cam gear only has one hole for the pin. So how could it be installed 180 out if the white mark on the gear is in the correct position for the timing marks on the valve cover?
Any suggestions?
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From: Upstate, SC
My Mitsu tech. and after it starts, now that I bumped the idle, it runs pretty good. It does not sound like 280 cams as one would think, more like a mix of 264's and 272's. I do not get much lope either.
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so before the cam install the car ran fine. after the install it doesn't run? does the car run well once you get it started? and post up the mod list here because myspace is blocked for me (and i'm sure many others).
2003 Evolution 8 GSR Silver
Modifications: HKS intake with filter, AMS FMIC, AMS lower intercooler piping, red Forge Diverter valve VTA, ACT HD clutch, ACT prolite flywheel, Forge polished MBC, GReddy Evo2 cat back, Megan Racing O2 bung, Megan Racing 3in downpipe, Megan Racing 3ing catalytic converter delete with resonator, Walbro 255lp fuel pump, ARP head studs, ARP connecting rod bolts, SS clutch line, Motul brake and clutch fluid, Short throw shifter, aluminum shifter base bushings, counter weighted shift knob, Brian Crower 280 intake & exhaust race camshafts, Brian Crower high RPM valve springs, AEM True Time camshaft gears, Titainium spring retainers, Ported factory exhaust manifold, Dynoflash ECU with 8500 RPM limit & removed speed limit & programed for 21psi for pump gas 26psi for race gas, Megan Racing boost gauge, Megan Racing oil pressure gauge, Megan Racing air fuel ratio gauge, relocated radio for indash gauge pod.
Hey people!
Some may have read my other post in other sections, but now I am looking for specific technical assistance.
Mod list: http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...b-1fa9cbf87548
My issue is when I am starting my car, I get the sound of sucking air (like a broken timing belt) BUT if I crack the throttle slightly, it will start. I also had an issue with it idling, but I had to bump the idle speed up to 1000-1100 so it would run with out assistance from me. I have check the timing, dead perfect. I am tuned for cams.
I was told by someone that the cam could be 180 degrees out, but that didnt make sense to me. The dowel pins are only on one side of the cam and the factory cam gear only has one hole for the pin. So how could it be installed 180 out if the white mark on the gear is in the correct position for the timing marks on the valve cover?
Any suggestions?
Some may have read my other post in other sections, but now I am looking for specific technical assistance.
Mod list: http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...b-1fa9cbf87548
My issue is when I am starting my car, I get the sound of sucking air (like a broken timing belt) BUT if I crack the throttle slightly, it will start. I also had an issue with it idling, but I had to bump the idle speed up to 1000-1100 so it would run with out assistance from me. I have check the timing, dead perfect. I am tuned for cams.
I was told by someone that the cam could be 180 degrees out, but that didnt make sense to me. The dowel pins are only on one side of the cam and the factory cam gear only has one hole for the pin. So how could it be installed 180 out if the white mark on the gear is in the correct position for the timing marks on the valve cover?
Any suggestions?
If they were 180 deg out, your car would not be running.
Find Mr“someone” and kick him in the junk for us.
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I knew that sounded funny, that is why I didnt do a tear down to reinstall. I did call BC about it to get his advise. He said that I should have installed at "0" on both and it should have started fine. If I were still having issues, install a set of cam gears (which i ordered last friday)
I bought the car with a blown head gasket. I did run, but obviously I didnt drive or run it for more than 5-10mins. Like I have said, once it is running it runs good. It does not sound like 280 cams (no hard or loud lop) kinda sounds like hks264's BC said that it is because of the really aggressive ramps on the profile.
Once the gears get here, I am going to retard the intake cam 4 degrees to see if that helps.
I am still wondering if anyone else has ran into something similar to this?
I bought the car with a blown head gasket. I did run, but obviously I didnt drive or run it for more than 5-10mins. Like I have said, once it is running it runs good. It does not sound like 280 cams (no hard or loud lop) kinda sounds like hks264's BC said that it is because of the really aggressive ramps on the profile.
Once the gears get here, I am going to retard the intake cam 4 degrees to see if that helps.
I am still wondering if anyone else has ran into something similar to this?
your vta bov and intake may be complicating the situation, but it still sounds extreme for just cams. If it's just a starting issue, that's weird. I'd expect some other part throttle/idle issues if it was anything other than something simple.
I had idle issues with going to 280 cams, but I'm also running large injectors. With the larger cams, you gain overlap which hurts starting and idle vacuum, hence more driveability issues with the bigger cams. When you get your cam gears, decrease the overlap and see if that helps.
I had idle issues with going to 280 cams, but I'm also running large injectors. With the larger cams, you gain overlap which hurts starting and idle vacuum, hence more driveability issues with the bigger cams. When you get your cam gears, decrease the overlap and see if that helps.
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I have to update the mod list, I am not running VTA anymore. Al at Dynoflash talked to me and convinced me not to run bigger injectors or VTA.
It started as a starting and idle issue, but once the idle was bumped to 1000-1100, the car will idle on its own now, but it has to have the throttle tapped during start up, once started it had a very small lop from the cams but not like a 280 should. (comparing it to the sound of hks 272's)
It started as a starting and idle issue, but once the idle was bumped to 1000-1100, the car will idle on its own now, but it has to have the throttle tapped during start up, once started it had a very small lop from the cams but not like a 280 should. (comparing it to the sound of hks 272's)
I have to update the mod list, I am not running VTA anymore. Al at Dynoflash talked to me and convinced me not to run bigger injectors or VTA.
It started as a starting and idle issue, but once the idle was bumped to 1000-1100, the car will idle on its own now, but it has to have the throttle tapped during start up, once started it had a very small lop from the cams but not like a 280 should. (comparing it to the sound of hks 272's)
It started as a starting and idle issue, but once the idle was bumped to 1000-1100, the car will idle on its own now, but it has to have the throttle tapped during start up, once started it had a very small lop from the cams but not like a 280 should. (comparing it to the sound of hks 272's)
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? I know with the Walbro on MY car, I have some driveability issues at part throttle and idle due to excess fuel pressure. Cams just compound part throttle/idle issues. I broke down this weekend and have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on the way to see if I can clear it up, but that will be a different thread assuming it clears up the issue. Just something to think about.