Do I need to change the rod bolts (to ARP ones) that comes with pauter rods? Or just leave it as it is?

 

edited for misreading the question.

 

Pauter rod bolts are high quality Pauter 220k psi tensile strength MSP220 steel, J-formed, rolled thread racing rod bolts (standard.) (comparable or better than ARPs) and do not need to be changed.

 

Wow that's great info and so detail. Thanks man. Roger that!

cheers

 

You're welcome. This and other excellent information on Pauter rods can be found on their web page www.pauter.com

 

Sorry i missed that when i was on the site, but your confirmation says it all...

Can i spell another question, how do people match bearings(main or rod) when they are building the bottom end.

I understand (example:ACL) bearings comes in STD. or +0.05 oversize.

So the bearings are usually plastic-gauged to find the EXACT / suitable bearing for each journal. How can just 2 sizes of bearings fits all application, do they "bored" (dun know the exact word to use) the bearings to fit in nicely? I pretty sure doing something to the crank journals isn't the correct thing to do...

Please advise.

 

This is a process that is done when you screw up your engine so if you haven't just get the standard size and if you want to know more read on.

When you do royally screw up your engine and score the hells out of your crank you goto a machine shop and have them turn it down to fit oversized bearings. This way the clearances aren't soo large that they wont hold oil pressure and fail again!

To check you'd need a micrometer and the crank out of the engine use the micrometer to check for out of roundness and its diameter. Comparing the diameters of a few angles you can quickly check the out of round and how much wear happened to the journals so far. Then you want to check the clearance of the oil journals to the crank with plastigauge which you can pick up at any auto store. If the journals are in spec and don't need machine work your free to bolt everything back up without worries.

Reference Sizes:

Crankshaft journal outside diameter mm (in) = 57 (2.24)
Crankshaft pin outside diameter mm (in) = 45 (1.77)
Crankshaft journal oil clearance mm (in) = 0.02 − 0.04 (0.0008 − 0.0016)
Limit of journal oil clearance mm (in) = 0.1 (0.004)

 

Now i get a clearer picture, i was under the impression that manufacturer ( ) bearing comes in 7 colors(sizes) of bearings. And need to plasticgauge to find out the correct bearing color (size) to fit in correctly. That will means to buy all sort of colors(sizes).

So to speak, since i'm intending to get the bottom end bult, nothing screwed up at the moment. And i'm intending to get the eagle crank, i just need the standard size bearings will do?

 

Main bearings come as a set either in over size or standard. With a new crank standard size bearings are all you will need. Oversized bearings should never be used on a new crank because there will not be enough clearance. With the bearings installed the crank should rotate easily, make sure to use plenty of assembly lube when installing new bearings to protect them in those first critical moments of fire up.

Here's how to use plastigage for those that don't know.

This is a plastigage measuring device


It comes with precisely measured strands of plastic, you just place a piece on the crank and squeeeze tighten it down to spec with a trusty torque wrench.


Take off the bearings cap and look at how flattened the plastigage is by measuring how "squished" it looks you can accurately judge how much space is between the bearing and the crank journal.

 

BTW never machine the main or rod journals on a crank.
cranks are forged... Machining causes very rapid wear.

 

What?

In their very construction, forged, die cast, and billet crankshaft journals are placed on a special lathe for final sizing..

Actual lathe:
http://www.komatsu-machinery.co.jp/H.../gjl/gjl_e.htm

 

[QUOTE=RoadSpike;4224811]Main bearings come as a set either in over size or standard. With a new crank standard size bearings are all you will need. Oversized bearings should never be used on a new crank because there will not be enough clearance. With the bearings installed the crank should rotate easily, make sure to use plenty of assembly lube when installing new bearings to protect them in those first critical moments of fire up.


I've read in the eagle website that all snout, rod and main journal filet radius are 0.125" for added strength therefore chamfered bearings are required.

What are these chamfered bearings? Are they still standard size bearing ?

 

To my knowledge:

The fillet radius is where the journal makes the abrupt change to a larger diameter, IE where the journal ends. By saying the radius of this change is large the change happens slowly giving you a sort of slope to where the crank and journal meet.

You can see that here at the bottom of the journal



The chamfered part means you radius the bearing cutting away part of the outer edge at an angle forming a bevel. I'll display a picture of an oil port thats chamfered. Note its beveled edge as opposed to a flat shape.

 

Thank you so much. I got so clear, in fact I think i got smarter with all your info. lol

So do they sell such "chamfered" bearings in standard size? or the bearings are "lathe" to spec?

 

I'm not sure about other brands but clevite should sell the chamfered and normal bearings in whatever size you want.