Head Gasket Install after ARP install..
I notice a slight bit of miscommunication here. Cool nick did not say to replace them as in buy new ones, he said replace them as in put them back on.
The reason he said to remove them was because you can sometimes run into an issue of the head not sliding down the studs smoothly and getting "caught" or slightly stuck causing you to have to wiggle the head to get it to seat. In the process, it's possible to muck up or kink the head gasket.
If you remove the head studs to change the headgasket, be sure to blow out the holes they were in to get out any excess oil and muck that could cause them to not fully settle.
As for needing a new headgasket, the OEM should work fine for 28 lbs. It is an MLS headgasket, as is the HKS and the Cometic. The only reason you'd want to us them is if you wanted or needed a thicker gasket or had a custom bore size, i.e. a 2.4 stroker setup, in which case you'd use the Cometic (HKS doesn't accomodate anything past a 2.3).
I hope this helps top clear things up.
The reason he said to remove them was because you can sometimes run into an issue of the head not sliding down the studs smoothly and getting "caught" or slightly stuck causing you to have to wiggle the head to get it to seat. In the process, it's possible to muck up or kink the head gasket.
If you remove the head studs to change the headgasket, be sure to blow out the holes they were in to get out any excess oil and muck that could cause them to not fully settle.
As for needing a new headgasket, the OEM should work fine for 28 lbs. It is an MLS headgasket, as is the HKS and the Cometic. The only reason you'd want to us them is if you wanted or needed a thicker gasket or had a custom bore size, i.e. a 2.4 stroker setup, in which case you'd use the Cometic (HKS doesn't accomodate anything past a 2.3).
I hope this helps top clear things up.
Last edited by thebluesky; May 6, 2007 at 03:22 PM.
I notice a slight bit of miscommunication here. Cool nick did not say to replace them as in buy new ones, he said replace them as in put them back on.
The reason he said to remove them was because you can sometimes run into an issue of the head not sliding down the studs smoothly and getting "caught" or slightly stuck causing you to have to wiggle the head to get it to seat. In the process, it's possible to muck up or kink the head gasket.
If you remove the head studs to change the headgasket, be sure to blow out the holes they were in to get out any excess oil and muck that could cause them to now fully settle.
As for needing a new headgasket, the OEM should work fine for 28 lbs. It is an MLS headgasket, as is the HKS and the Cometic. The only reason you'd want to us them is if you wanted or needed a thicker gasket or had a custom bore size, i.e. a 2.4 stroker setup, in which case you'd use the Cometic (HKS doesn't accomodate anything past a 2.3).
I hope this helps top clear things up.
The reason he said to remove them was because you can sometimes run into an issue of the head not sliding down the studs smoothly and getting "caught" or slightly stuck causing you to have to wiggle the head to get it to seat. In the process, it's possible to muck up or kink the head gasket.
If you remove the head studs to change the headgasket, be sure to blow out the holes they were in to get out any excess oil and muck that could cause them to now fully settle.
As for needing a new headgasket, the OEM should work fine for 28 lbs. It is an MLS headgasket, as is the HKS and the Cometic. The only reason you'd want to us them is if you wanted or needed a thicker gasket or had a custom bore size, i.e. a 2.4 stroker setup, in which case you'd use the Cometic (HKS doesn't accomodate anything past a 2.3).
I hope this helps top clear things up.
And in the event that you were to replace your timing belt, the factory belts are very nice. I have a PE belt on my DSM and laid down next to the factory Mitsu belt I'm not so sure I would choose the PE next time around. You do not need to replace them at 15k in any event. Nor do you need to replace your HG.
the original posters tuner...is the same guy who tuned my car...
he recommends replacing the head gasket not because the stock one cannot handle the power/boost....but because he intends to use a thicker head gasket to lower the compresion of the engine in order to run higher boost on pump gas..
does this make it clear for everyone?
he recommends replacing the head gasket not because the stock one cannot handle the power/boost....but because he intends to use a thicker head gasket to lower the compresion of the engine in order to run higher boost on pump gas..
does this make it clear for everyone?
I am running the stocker...upgrading to the green soon...
the original poster is currently running an AMS 50trim...
another question...does the evo8 intended headgasket fit the IX?
the original poster is currently running an AMS 50trim...
another question...does the evo8 intended headgasket fit the IX?
And if you have worked on enough of them you would also notice that the same oil leaks happen when no head studs had ever been done.Some leak and some don't and to this day the only one that I have seen leaking oil at said area is my own and I have done over 10 others the same way and not one has leaked.FWIW I also replaced head gasket after 6 months of this small oil leak and about a year later it started leaking again.I am quite sure that the leak is due to block deck and or head not being perfectly flat/true. My other motor I decked to prevent this and found that it was over .004 out when checking prior to decking and motor was never overheated and had only 35k on it before my build.
a lot of people make huge power with the oem gasket. i wouldnt chnage it if you dont need too.
a cometic head gasket requires a very smooth surface to seal perfectly, since your not pulling the motor, i wouldnt recomend a cometic.
i am sure you'll hear people just installing a cometic without issue while not getting everything perfect too.
a cometic head gasket requires a very smooth surface to seal perfectly, since your not pulling the motor, i wouldnt recomend a cometic.
i am sure you'll hear people just installing a cometic without issue while not getting everything perfect too.
Christ! I can't believe all the utter crap advise!
Unless you go huge on bore, the OE head gasket is all you will EVER need.
Say you have already replaced the OE head bolts for studs? There are no compression issues, nor leaks needing to be addressed? You are DONE!
As gsnt says, your next concern is the bottom end. Esp if your goof ball tuner is so Evo experienced that he's already giving you crap advice. Concerns me as to what he's going to do when he starts tapping on the keys. Sounds like you don't need another head gasket, you need another shop/tuner!
Unless you go huge on bore, the OE head gasket is all you will EVER need.
Say you have already replaced the OE head bolts for studs? There are no compression issues, nor leaks needing to be addressed? You are DONE!
As gsnt says, your next concern is the bottom end. Esp if your goof ball tuner is so Evo experienced that he's already giving you crap advice. Concerns me as to what he's going to do when he starts tapping on the keys. Sounds like you don't need another head gasket, you need another shop/tuner!
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Smogrunner
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Aug 12, 2004 08:06 AM
