Max HP through the MAF what have people made?
Stock MAF, stock ecu reflashed, 880cc Precision Injectors, stock head, stock intake manifold, AMS 2.3, AMS 35R kit drag race tune at ~32psi (blue line), Tuning Tech 35R kit road race tune at ~27psi (red line). On the AMS kit, I used their standard cone style K&N intake with the stock MAF. On the TTech kit, I use the stock airbox.
Here is a writeup on my previous experience with destroying the honeycomb and how we fixed it:
The circumstances why mine was crushed: 540whp/494wtq on a dynojet with the standard AMS turbo kit. The MAF screen crushed during street driving, not on the dyno. Upon closer inspection of the diverter valve recirculation plumbing on the AMS kit's intake pipe, we decided that it was too close to the MAF screen AND not angled enough TOWARDS the compressor inlet. I know most ams kits are sold with the AEM EMS in mind, but it would be nice if the AMS DV inlet was angled more like this intake pipe:
Here is what my screen looked like after it died...
What we did: Two things. First, we just extended the distance between the MAF to the point where the diverter valve dumps into the intake piping. These few inches of extra length were done by adding a longer silicon coupler than comes with the kit. This has the result of putting the end of the K&N cone all the way between the Intercooler filler bottle and the fuse box. This pic is at the wrong angle, but you can kinda see how it entends further than the standard AMS intake piping:
Next, we carefully took out the MAF screen out, scuffed the edges of the maf screen housing with some high abrasive scotch brite pad, and added a thick layer of good epoxy glue there and on the edges of the screen. We replaced the screen, let it set/dry and were done. I can't remember the exact type of epoxy glue, but it was some good stuff. If you look really closely, you can see how the edge of the screen has the glue. (bottom and right side)
Also, if the screen has a few bent honeycombs, that would contribute to its failure, imho.
Results: So far, about 65 dyno pulls, many in the mid to high 500whp with no problem. Two trips to the drag races with no problems, where I ran 11.1, 11.0, 11.0 at 128 and one second place behind the Crawford STI at the February Redline Time Attack:
Here is one with Paul Gerrard driving with my front rotors glowing red in plain daylight. It has nothing to do with this topic, but it makes me smile everytime I see it:
Here is a writeup on my previous experience with destroying the honeycomb and how we fixed it:
The circumstances why mine was crushed: 540whp/494wtq on a dynojet with the standard AMS turbo kit. The MAF screen crushed during street driving, not on the dyno. Upon closer inspection of the diverter valve recirculation plumbing on the AMS kit's intake pipe, we decided that it was too close to the MAF screen AND not angled enough TOWARDS the compressor inlet. I know most ams kits are sold with the AEM EMS in mind, but it would be nice if the AMS DV inlet was angled more like this intake pipe:
Here is what my screen looked like after it died...
What we did: Two things. First, we just extended the distance between the MAF to the point where the diverter valve dumps into the intake piping. These few inches of extra length were done by adding a longer silicon coupler than comes with the kit. This has the result of putting the end of the K&N cone all the way between the Intercooler filler bottle and the fuse box. This pic is at the wrong angle, but you can kinda see how it entends further than the standard AMS intake piping:
Next, we carefully took out the MAF screen out, scuffed the edges of the maf screen housing with some high abrasive scotch brite pad, and added a thick layer of good epoxy glue there and on the edges of the screen. We replaced the screen, let it set/dry and were done. I can't remember the exact type of epoxy glue, but it was some good stuff. If you look really closely, you can see how the edge of the screen has the glue. (bottom and right side)
Also, if the screen has a few bent honeycombs, that would contribute to its failure, imho.
Results: So far, about 65 dyno pulls, many in the mid to high 500whp with no problem. Two trips to the drag races with no problems, where I ran 11.1, 11.0, 11.0 at 128 and one second place behind the Crawford STI at the February Redline Time Attack:
Here is one with Paul Gerrard driving with my front rotors glowing red in plain daylight. It has nothing to do with this topic, but it makes me smile everytime I see it:
Last edited by Smogrunner; May 5, 2007 at 07:12 PM.
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EmirEvoEight
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
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Jun 6, 2012 03:37 PM
