Extended clutch rod: Whats the REAL truth behind it?
Extended clutch rod: Whats the REAL truth behind it?
I have been searching this forum, and many others to find out whether or not this extended clutch rod is neccessary. I just had a clusco twin plate clutch installed and was told this was needed.
ONCE AND FOR ALL, CAN SOMEONE VERIFY IF THIS THING IS NEEDED OR WORTHLESS CRAP?
Thanks!
frank
ONCE AND FOR ALL, CAN SOMEONE VERIFY IF THIS THING IS NEEDED OR WORTHLESS CRAP?
Thanks!
frank
my friend has a cusco and doesnt need it....
i have the exedy twin and dont need it....
if it was really needed, every shop would sell them or most likely bundle it with the clutch...
i have the exedy twin and dont need it....
if it was really needed, every shop would sell them or most likely bundle it with the clutch...
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The "extender rod" for the slave cylinder (which I heard is shorter on the EVO) is like taking a sugar pill or buying snake oil as a cure for cancer. Don't waste your money. Any length at the slave cylinder added or taken away is going to be compensated for by the system adding or taking away fluid in the same manner it does for normal wear of the clutch disc. The only rod that will have any affect on release/engagement position is the one at the master cylinder. Adjusting freeplay at the M/C rod is going to determine where the engagement point is.
Last edited by ACTman; May 7, 2007 at 03:48 PM. Reason: forgot a word
The "extender rod" for the slave cylinder (which I heard is shorter on the EVO) is like taking a sugar or buying snake oil as a cure for cancer. Don't waste your money. Any length at the slave cylinder added or taken away is going to be compensated for by the system adding or taking away fluid in the same manner it does for normal wear of the clutch disc. The only rod that will have any affect on release/engagement position is the one at the master cylinder. Adjusting freeplay at the M/C rod is going to determine where the engagement point is.
BUMP from the dead.
Ever since my gearbox was rebuilt (under warranty!) and new ACT clutch was installed my clutch engages right at the very top of the pedal. Its getting very annoying and I know it cant be good on my clutch or fresh tranny.
Someone correct me if I am wrong but shouldnt I loosen the 12mm locking nut and turn the rod counter-clockwise to lower the engagement point? It seems like either direction makes no difference.
I ask on this thread because someone mentioned I might need an extended clutch rod.
Ever since my gearbox was rebuilt (under warranty!) and new ACT clutch was installed my clutch engages right at the very top of the pedal. Its getting very annoying and I know it cant be good on my clutch or fresh tranny.
Someone correct me if I am wrong but shouldnt I loosen the 12mm locking nut and turn the rod counter-clockwise to lower the engagement point? It seems like either direction makes no difference.
I ask on this thread because someone mentioned I might need an extended clutch rod.
BUMP from the dead.
Ever since my gearbox was rebuilt (under warranty!) and new ACT clutch was installed my clutch engages right at the very top of the pedal. Its getting very annoying and I know it cant be good on my clutch or fresh tranny.
Someone correct me if I am wrong but shouldnt I loosen the 12mm locking nut and turn the rod counter-clockwise to lower the engagement point? It seems like either direction makes no difference.
I ask on this thread because someone mentioned I might need an extended clutch rod.
Ever since my gearbox was rebuilt (under warranty!) and new ACT clutch was installed my clutch engages right at the very top of the pedal. Its getting very annoying and I know it cant be good on my clutch or fresh tranny.
Someone correct me if I am wrong but shouldnt I loosen the 12mm locking nut and turn the rod counter-clockwise to lower the engagement point? It seems like either direction makes no difference.
I ask on this thread because someone mentioned I might need an extended clutch rod.