Has anyone installed head studs with OUT taking the head off? If so has anyone had and problems? I'm asking this cause ive been told its risky to change the studs unless you take the head off.

 

Yea the one by one method is "supposed" to be dangerous and all, but i've seen many people do it and they're fine...so yea you could do it w/out takin the head off, but some people may say it's risky and you may warp your head..

 

Its ARP and not APR head studs.

I did the ARP head stud one by one method last week. It took probably bout 1hr or so and thats taking my time.

 

If you do the one by one method without taking the head off, you risk warping your head or compromising the head gasket seal. Its about a 50% chance of this happening, (I've personally seen two Evo's with oil leaks down the side of the block after the install). In my opinion, its best not to risk it, and do it the right way the first time.

 

Is there a reason you need to install them?

I hope your not reading about some magic number that requires head studs to be installed and think you need them.

 

Why not just loosen them all partially in order, then loosen one all the way and continue?

The reason it warps is that the rest of the head bolts are under full tension and one goes all the way loose. If the entire head is under half the tension it normally is, then you loosen one all the way, wouldn't the risk be lessened?

 

I'm with you on this.
A lot of magic numbers on this site and people perpetuating myths.

 

Just make sure the engine is cold.........I have not driven my Evo for about a week before I installed the head studs. Make sure you drain the oil.......I also drained the coolant out of the block and head. Don't forget to use a good torque wrench. Good luck

 

So when is it a good time to change the head studs? I'm curious about this as well.

 

I've never done this on an evo and since you have...i have some questions.
I'm assuming it's as simple as removing the valve covers...undoing the timing belt tensioner...possibly removing the cam gears...unbolting the camshaft caps per spec and then replacing the head bolts with studs.

Why would you need to drain the coolant and oil if the head is staying on the car?

 

so know one has had a problem?

 

Well, i'm not expert on this. I do have ARP head studs in my other car.

In my opinion, if you're taking the head off, you might as well build for stronger.

Boost doesn't mean your head is going to blow off.
If you increase pressure from 20psi to 25psi...5psi is not going to do anything to the head bolts. Most people are confused by that. Can you imaging putting a 20lb weight on a metal bolt, and then putting 25lbs and having it fail?

Cylinder pressure and detonation cause head lift.
Tune it properly and you won't have a problem.

But as I've said before, if you're taking the head off you might as well spend a little money for a better build. Studs are always better than bolts. They hold better and more evenly.

 

I'm at 350whp (dynojet) and I'm on the stock head bolts and stock head gasket. No problems yet...Buckethead rules!

 

hey that really good.....but If I could, hear from people that have done studs.

 

You don't have to undo or remove anything but the valve cover.