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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:56 AM
  #16  
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From: Butthole, MA
Originally Posted by milo
You don't have to undo or remove anything but the valve cover.
No sir. Wow that's easy.

So my assumption that the bolts are under the camshaft were incorrect.

Christ this car is so cheap and easy to mod.

I come from a car that cost about 5-7k and some serious aftermarket parts in order to hit 300rwhp.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:59 AM
  #17  
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WAY too much "theory" here. Back before the internet (gasp, can you imagine!) we used to have this totally badass thing called a phone. The phone allows you to reach an actual person with actual knowledge about a particular part. In this case, you can use the trusty internet to guide you to ARPs website and low and behold you will find the phone number to their tech department. If you use your old crusty phone to dial this phone number you will be amazed to discover that there is more than one person at ARP that happens to be an expert on fasteners. They can tell you all kinds of interesting things, like how only idiots overtorque ARP fasteners, or how you must retorque your fasteners after initial engine warm up, etc. They will even tell you the answer to this question. I am not going to tell you the answer to this question because EVER SINGLE PERSON that has read or responded to this thread desperately needs to make this phone call before I lose all faith in humanity.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:00 PM
  #18  
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From: ATX
Originally Posted by SophieSleeps
No sir..

WTF.........Yeah, your welcome
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:02 PM
  #19  
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From: ATX
Originally Posted by coolnick
WAY too much "theory" here. Back before the internet (gasp, can you imagine!) we used to have this totally badass thing called a phone. The phone allows you to reach an actual person with actual knowledge about a particular part. In this case, you can use the trusty internet to guide you to ARPs website and low and behold you will find the phone number to their tech department. If you use your old crusty phone to dial this phone number you will be amazed to discover that there is more than one person at ARP that happens to be an expert on fasteners. They can tell you all kinds of interesting things, like how only idiots overtorque ARP fasteners, or how you must retorque your fasteners after initial engine warm up, etc. They will even tell you the answer to this question. I am not going to tell you the answer to this question because EVER SINGLE PERSON that has read or responded to this thread desperately needs to make this phone call before I lose all faith in humanity.

Then why make a post at all
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #20  
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From: ATX
Originally Posted by coolnick
WAY too much "theory" here. Back before the internet (gasp, can you imagine!) we used to have this totally badass thing called a phone. The phone allows you to reach an actual person with actual knowledge about a particular part. In this case, you can use the trusty internet to guide you to ARPs website and low and behold you will find the phone number to their tech department. If you use your old crusty phone to dial this phone number you will be amazed to discover that there is more than one person at ARP that happens to be an expert on fasteners. They can tell you all kinds of interesting things, like how only idiots overtorque ARP fasteners, or how you must retorque your fasteners after initial engine warm up, etc. They will even tell you the answer to this question. I am not going to tell you the answer to this question because EVER SINGLE PERSON that has read or responded to this thread desperately needs to make this phone call before I lose all faith in humanity.

Then why make a post at all
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #21  
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From: ATX
Evo's are fast.........lol

Last edited by milo; May 9, 2007 at 12:04 PM. Reason: double post
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:09 PM
  #22  
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From: Socal :)
Originally Posted by coolnick
WAY too much "theory" here. Back before the internet (gasp, can you imagine!) we used to have this totally badass thing called a phone. The phone allows you to reach an actual person with actual knowledge about a particular part. In this case, you can use the trusty internet to guide you to ARPs website and low and behold you will find the phone number to their tech department. If you use your old crusty phone to dial this phone number you will be amazed to discover that there is more than one person at ARP that happens to be an expert on fasteners. They can tell you all kinds of interesting things, like how only idiots overtorque ARP fasteners, or how you must retorque your fasteners after initial engine warm up, etc. They will even tell you the answer to this question. I am not going to tell you the answer to this question because EVER SINGLE PERSON that has read or responded to this thread desperately needs to make this phone call before I lose all faith in humanity.
I agree with much of your post, but I am not sure ARP is un-biased given that they mfg. and sell the bolts / studs...That said, when I spoke to guys that build professional race engines they said "you should always remove the head, make sure it is true, do necessary machining, reinstall with a new gasket, and then put in the bolts..."

So the problem is you still have 2 different opinions (go figure)....IMHO, why change them? If they fail, then take the head off, do the head work, and go from there....
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:09 PM
  #23  
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Ive been a member since July of 06 and it seems like 98% of the members are grumpy A-holes

Last edited by APEX1; May 9, 2007 at 12:11 PM.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:19 PM
  #24  
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From: Butthole, MA
Originally Posted by milo
WTF.........Yeah, your welcome
I wasn't disagreeing with you.
I was saying I was surprised at how easy it was.
sort of like a "no sir" (in disbelief)

Originally Posted by coolnick
WAY too much "theory" here. Back before the internet (gasp, can you imagine!) we used to have this totally badass thing called a phone. The phone allows you to reach an actual person with actual knowledge about a particular part. In this case, you can use the trusty internet to guide you to ARPs website and low and behold you will find the phone number to their tech department. If you use your old crusty phone to dial this phone number you will be amazed to discover that there is more than one person at ARP that happens to be an expert on fasteners. They can tell you all kinds of interesting things, like how only idiots overtorque ARP fasteners, or how you must retorque your fasteners after initial engine warm up, etc. They will even tell you the answer to this question. I am not going to tell you the answer to this question because EVER SINGLE PERSON that has read or responded to this thread desperately needs to make this phone call before I lose all faith in humanity.
I don't think everyone should call ARP.
They don't have a tech line simply to give lessons to people.
That's more of what should be done on these forums.
It may be easier to simply post what information you know.

Last edited by SophieSleeps; May 9, 2007 at 12:22 PM.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:33 PM
  #25  
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There are tons of people running high boost and or big turbos on the stock head bolts with no problems. There are others with lower boost, smaller turbos, and a terrible tune and they have head gasket problems. See where I'm going with this?

The stock hardware is plenty good for a engine that has been properly tuned.

The people that are having head gasket problems because of poor tuning should be thankful the headgasket blew instead of taking something more expensive out.
The ones that have leaks from taking the half arsed approach to ARPs will have a real mess to clean up. Once oil gets in the coolant or coolant in the oil it takes forever to flush the crud out. Good luck!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #26  
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From: Socal :)
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
There are tons of people running high boost and or big turbos on the stock head bolts with no problems. There are others with lower boost, smaller turbos, and a terrible tune and they have head gasket problems. See where I'm going with this?

The stock hardware is plenty good for a engine that has been properly tuned.

The people that are having head gasket problems because of poor tuning should be thankful the headgasket blew instead of taking something more expensive out.
The ones that have leaks from taking the half arsed approach to ARPs will have a real mess to clean up. Once oil gets in the coolant or coolant in the oil it takes forever to flush the crud out. Good luck!
I agree 100%....
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Old May 9, 2007 | 12:51 PM
  #27  
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
There are tons of people running high boost and or big turbos on the stock head bolts with no problems. There are others with lower boost, smaller turbos, and a terrible tune and they have head gasket problems. See where I'm going with this?

The stock hardware is plenty good for a engine that has been properly tuned.

The people that are having head gasket problems because of poor tuning should be thankful the headgasket blew instead of taking something more expensive out.
....can i get an amen!

I'm with you on this.
A lot of magic numbers on this site and people perpetuating myths.
I find this an ongoing problem on this forum......im still waiting for driveability issues on my aem intake
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Old May 9, 2007 | 02:49 PM
  #28  
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Regullar ARP's are of lower quality than OEM mitsu headbolts. ARP makes a few more higher grades that are better than OEM quality but it usually (read always) means a special order. Stock headbolts are not a limitation on stock bottom. If you have built your bottom you need to upgrade to something better than the standard ****ty ARP's. You need to go to 10mm threads in the block and ream out the head for them as well. Read: at no point will you have to replace headbolts in the car because if you are redoing the bottom the head is off the car. If you want to "upgrade" from OEM's and don't want to go to 10mm bolts then do it right and get arp's L1 series at a minimum.

So to answer your question your using the wrong fastener and wasting your time.
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