Hydraulic vs solid lifters
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Markopoulo, Greece
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hydraulic vs solid lifters
I know it has been discussed again but I would like to here the pros' opinion on this subject.In Europe many tuners use solid lifters on their 4G63s and they say they are working fine.But others (including Buschur and AMS) say that solid lifters simple don't work on our engines.
From my personal experience with the BLE solids one thing I can tell is that it is almost impossible to adjust them properly.What do you guys thing?
It would be very helpfull to have well none tuners like Buschur and AMS to explain us whats wrong with the solids and finally if they worth it or not.
From my personal experience with the BLE solids one thing I can tell is that it is almost impossible to adjust them properly.What do you guys thing?
It would be very helpfull to have well none tuners like Buschur and AMS to explain us whats wrong with the solids and finally if they worth it or not.
#3
Evolved Member
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: So. Cal (LA County)
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the BLE solids on my motor for a few dyno pulls.
1) They are very hard to adjust once installed. to se the lash you have to pull the cams.
2) the tolerances where way off
3)I broke 2 Jam nuts off while trying to loosen then when first pulled them out of the package
4) they are noisy as hell, you think a lifter tapping is bad how about 16 of the clanking at idle
5) there is no use unless you are running a Piper Drag Cam with so much lift and such an aggressive lobe that it collapses lifters, but at the point the car isn't street driven and is probably inspected after each race weekend.
1) They are very hard to adjust once installed. to se the lash you have to pull the cams.
2) the tolerances where way off
3)I broke 2 Jam nuts off while trying to loosen then when first pulled them out of the package
4) they are noisy as hell, you think a lifter tapping is bad how about 16 of the clanking at idle
5) there is no use unless you are running a Piper Drag Cam with so much lift and such an aggressive lobe that it collapses lifters, but at the point the car isn't street driven and is probably inspected after each race weekend.
#6
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Somewhere on the Planet
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've tested BLE and they really SUCK!
If you have to use solid lifters go with JUN, they are much easier to adjust. They use shims.
There is a Mitsubishi tool that can be used to compress the valve springs so you can adjust the lifters with out pulling the cams. It's very expensive and I don't know if there are any other tools for it out there?
If you have to use solid lifters go with JUN, they are much easier to adjust. They use shims.
There is a Mitsubishi tool that can be used to compress the valve springs so you can adjust the lifters with out pulling the cams. It's very expensive and I don't know if there are any other tools for it out there?
#7
Evolved Member
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: So. Cal (LA County)
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another option is what i will be running with my Piper cams....
A gutted stock lifter that is machined to fit a Ecotec solid lifter inside that is shimmed up to the proper lash.
The Ecoteck lifters have spun 10k rpm on the dyno no problew..... only PITA is making machining the shims.
A gutted stock lifter that is machined to fit a Ecotec solid lifter inside that is shimmed up to the proper lash.
The Ecoteck lifters have spun 10k rpm on the dyno no problew..... only PITA is making machining the shims.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TTOPPOUZI
For Sale/WTB - Engine / Drivetrain / Power
9
Feb 6, 2007 06:25 AM