Thrown a rod out the block!!!
Jun 2, 2007, 11:23 PM
#16
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^ Jam is selling factory 4g63 block for 2700+ then if i get this... i will sell everything and but the core and buy a 2.0 stroker.
Last edited by evovin; Jun 3, 2007 at 07:14 AM.
Jun 2, 2007, 11:25 PM
#17
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OH SNAP!!!
that sucks! I'm sorry to hear that. Especially when you weren't even doing anything to warrent this happening to your car. I hope the best for you. If you can get an extended warrenty plan to cover it or perhaps your engine/drivetrain warranty from your car insurance perhaps? Geico does that for me. If you have something like that, it could be another option. Or a combination even. Hope to see your car back up and running on the forums soon. Good luck.
~S3t
that sucks! I'm sorry to hear that. Especially when you weren't even doing anything to warrent this happening to your car. I hope the best for you. If you can get an extended warrenty plan to cover it or perhaps your engine/drivetrain warranty from your car insurance perhaps? Geico does that for me. If you have something like that, it could be another option. Or a combination even. Hope to see your car back up and running on the forums soon. Good luck.
~S3t
Jun 3, 2007, 01:07 AM
#18
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dude that sucks, but i told you you shouldnt have been driving on it with the low compression....... take it to the place you got it since you got the extended warranty from them......
Jun 3, 2007, 01:26 AM
#19
I would say the rod was bent and that is why the comp was low at that time. I have seen many 7 bolt motors throw rods for seemingly no reason and under 350whp.
I know my motor will be geting a set of Eagles soon.
I found on my last cust car that lost a rod bolt doing a 2.4 was cheeper than geting a 2.0 back in the car.
I know my motor will be geting a set of Eagles soon.
I found on my last cust car that lost a rod bolt doing a 2.4 was cheeper than geting a 2.0 back in the car.
Jun 3, 2007, 09:19 AM
#20
I have not been able to draw the line on how much fun driving is abuse.....but man I run my car through the wringer....an 05 with 50,000 miles and is trapping 120 on the stock turbo, full weight at 3000ft elevation....and no signs of something disasterous like this happening..I probably do first and second gear rips a couple times daily and haul *** on to on ramps when traffic permits. Race it bi monthly at the drag strip......How much does it take to kill this motor I don't know but apparently the previous owner found the limit....probably stretched a rod bolt.
Jun 3, 2007, 09:59 AM
#21
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Where are you located in Florida? I would definetly try the warranty unless you are ready for the stroker and the cost relating to it. Have you decided if you are going to run a larger turbo and everything as well.
Jun 3, 2007, 11:10 AM
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l8r)
Jun 3, 2007, 11:17 AM
#23
2nd option:
I have purchased an extended warranty not from mitsubishi.(they are not as strict as the mitsu)My warranty will do it as long as its factory parts. I already talked to one of the shop here. I was thinking of getting the 2.0 factory block (off course) but once i got them i will sell all the internals and get the 2.0 stroker kit. basically labor is free but need to sell the internals of the block to help me with the new AMS or Buschur 2.0 stroker kit.
I have purchased an extended warranty not from mitsubishi.(they are not as strict as the mitsu)My warranty will do it as long as its factory parts. I already talked to one of the shop here. I was thinking of getting the 2.0 factory block (off course) but once i got them i will sell all the internals and get the 2.0 stroker kit. basically labor is free but need to sell the internals of the block to help me with the new AMS or Buschur 2.0 stroker kit.
You are misunderstanding something here. A 2.0L motor uses the stock OEM crankshaft. The parts that you would be replacing to build a 2.0L performance motor are the rods and pistons, both of which would be forged and higher strength than the stock comparable parts. The "Stage III" Buschur 2.0 or the AMS 2.0 forged shortblock would simply have forged rods and pistons.
Jun 3, 2007, 11:52 AM
#24
I am not in the office but I believe we have a built 2.0 and 2.3 in stock.
As much as I would like to see you in a built motor, if cost is you issue I would turn it back to stock and hit them up for warranty. If there is a history with low compression in cylinder 4 then there was obviously something wrong ie: bent rod, Piston partially cracked, etc. We are not about taking peoples money and running with it at AMS. I would much rather see you happy with your car. Talk to the dealer a bit more. a few hundred dollars or personal hours in labor to convert your car back to stock might be worth it. Especially if you don't plan on modding you car to the point where it would warrant a built motor. my 2 cents
Eric
As much as I would like to see you in a built motor, if cost is you issue I would turn it back to stock and hit them up for warranty. If there is a history with low compression in cylinder 4 then there was obviously something wrong ie: bent rod, Piston partially cracked, etc. We are not about taking peoples money and running with it at AMS. I would much rather see you happy with your car. Talk to the dealer a bit more. a few hundred dollars or personal hours in labor to convert your car back to stock might be worth it. Especially if you don't plan on modding you car to the point where it would warrant a built motor. my 2 cents
Eric
Jun 3, 2007, 04:27 PM
#26
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I am not in the office but I believe we have a built 2.0 and 2.3 in stock.
As much as I would like to see you in a built motor, if cost is you issue I would turn it back to stock and hit them up for warranty. If there is a history with low compression in cylinder 4 then there was obviously something wrong ie: bent rod, Piston partially cracked, etc. We are not about taking peoples money and running with it at AMS. I would much rather see you happy with your car. Talk to the dealer a bit more. a few hundred dollars or personal hours in labor to convert your car back to stock might be worth it. Especially if you don't plan on modding you car to the point where it would warrant a built motor. my 2 cents
Eric
As much as I would like to see you in a built motor, if cost is you issue I would turn it back to stock and hit them up for warranty. If there is a history with low compression in cylinder 4 then there was obviously something wrong ie: bent rod, Piston partially cracked, etc. We are not about taking peoples money and running with it at AMS. I would much rather see you happy with your car. Talk to the dealer a bit more. a few hundred dollars or personal hours in labor to convert your car back to stock might be worth it. Especially if you don't plan on modding you car to the point where it would warrant a built motor. my 2 cents
Eric
You have pmed me...is that price for the whole block and internals? or do i still need a new core?
Last edited by evovin; Jun 3, 2007 at 05:59 PM.
Jun 3, 2007, 06:27 PM
#27
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Hallman Pro
Walbro FP
Turbo XS TBE
Blitz Turbo Timer
k&n cone filter
lower ic pipe
Fighter's garage oil catch can
Prosport gauges
All these mods and no tune listed.....I think that was your problem.
Walbro FP
Turbo XS TBE
Blitz Turbo Timer
k&n cone filter
lower ic pipe
Fighter's garage oil catch can
Prosport gauges
All these mods and no tune listed.....I think that was your problem.
