Put the car back to stock and have mitsu take care of it. If they wont cover it and your block is not cracked pull the block buy a reman. Oem crank and buy get a rod and piston combo. 2.0L. bore the block .20over get your car retuned and you should be alright.


Dont worry about your head. Ive seen some head that where cracked and really messed up and where saved to be reused.

 

Well I hate to say it but this is the reason why so many peoples warranty is voided because of half the people in this thread. Do you honestly believe when you are modded or drive stupid and something happens you should turn it back to stock to get warranty fixed....plain and simple that is fraud. Obviously the car is modded and have probably been driven some. The techs are not that stupid...dont you think they are going to question you if you take in an evo with around 30k miles and say it blew up at 2800rpms I mean when you have mods and race it or drive it hard and dont get the proper tune and supporting mods, suck it up and shell out the money for a new engine. The OP is going in the right direction with going with AMS or Buschur but too the people suggesting to put it back to stock to get warranty that is just crooked. No wonder why Mitsu voids warranty alot...they know everybody is trying to screw them over

 

^hmm...got point there! we will see tomorow when i call my warranty company... i will be posting pics or video reviving my evo 8

 

maybe a dumb question... Can i just upgrade the piston and rods and use the factory crankshaft? will this be a good idea? or not? what will be the benifits?

 

Sure. The factory crank is a very strong part, and is good for at least 800HP. The factory rods and pistons are not as strong, and are the parts that need upgrading if you're going to go high HP. The factory rods/pistons are still good for 400 HP or so, as long as your tune is well done.

 

thanks for the info!

 

The factory rods and pistons are good more to 500-550 if properly tuned...some have even made it past 600hp. 400hp on a good tune is barely any stress on a stock 4G63...If you dont plan on ever going big just buy stock internals or possibly the AMS spec Ross pistons and Eagle Rods...that is a very good combo for the price and will hold most all the hp you would throw at it. I think for the little extra it would be a smart choice to just upgrade while you are in there because it wont cost a whole lot more and you will have a little extra insurance on the inside of your motor.

 

Are you kidding me have you ever blew your evo motor yet. Im on my 3rd motor. There is no way your stock crank is reuseable in this case the crank has to be scored there is no way that crank is to spec.

 

^i will use the new stock factory crankshaft though...

 

Is this a common issue with the 4G63? It kind of scares me with such an expensive motor. I have thrown a rod through the block of a samurai motor before but it was caused by a completely desinigrated rod bearing that was causing the rod to slap around on the crank and it eventually broke.

 

Buy another stock block and save your money. You don't need a "built motor" esp of you only intend to run BPU mods. I've owned 4g63s with over 200k on the factory motor (never even had the head off) and 20psi. for years.. Just don't buy into all this bulls**t hype that a 6K "built motor" is a must.

Do youself a favor and make a logical decision.

 

WTH is a 2.0 stroker??

 

Just talked to the mitsu dealership when the actual 1st onwer got the car from( btw i got the car from chevy dealership)...he said that the 1st owner beat the hell out of this car! it was in and out the shop before ...too bad i didn't do any research about this car before....
Well...i took the car today to the shop...they said they will call me tom to find out if my warranty covers the new engine!
_____

 

I dont know if I want to go as far as calling it fraud - however I have some thoughts on the matter

To me a warranty means when there exists a defect or problem with the materials suplied the manufacturer must remedy the problem

All too often these days a warranty has expanded to include meaning that if the engine fails for any reason within 60,000 miles it was a defect per se

Just modifying your car will not by law void your waranty (IN THEORY) unless the particular modfication is proven to be the cause of the failure this is federal law. However - IN REALITY - as member stew found out the fact is when you make power train modifcations will have an easy excuse to void your warranty and you have a snow ***** chance in hell to prove the failure was not related to the modifcations made.

The EASY way around this as Eric from AMS points out is to simply revert the car to stock and let deal with the problem.

While this may get you the result you desire - it may have ethical and moral implications for honest and just men. I think where you come out on this question is a matter of personal honor.

Myself personally, I would never start modfying a car I could not afford to and was not prepared to repair if it broke. A LOT of members of the community fail to consider the reality that on occassion engines do break. Its like a motor bike owner who does not accept the reality that there is RISK involved.

Modifying any car does carry certain risks which can be minimized through careful tuning and wrenching, however it is foolish to demand the maximum in performance without considering the reality that your car may have a problem at some point.

All I am saying is that members should think about these things a bit before they have a problem not afterward.

I have asked many a member when tuning who was demanding a certain dyno figure how they would deal with a blown motor. There have been many who have said, when it blows I will call Buschur or who ever and get a built one. Those are the guys who should seek max power. If your answer is "I would be ****ed as I have no money and no other ride to work" then you should consider moderate boost levels and a very safe tune and also make sure you change your OIL sometimes.!

If you feel that the engine was truely defective e.g. a rob bolt which streched or a head stud for example - etc etc - then I see nothing wrong with removing mods and bringing the car to be fixed.

However, if there was nothing defective with the car, and the car was simply not tuned or beat on etc then I don'y think its fair to seel warranty coverage no matter what

We have a certain person who hangs about our shop with a STI who beats the crap out of his car without mercy - driving 160 mph and racing like a maniac. His style of tuning is to run maximum boost the turbo will allow on pump gas. He was able to revert his car to stock and get a new motor at 55,000 miles from Subaru after he blew up his past one. I think his car has had 2 or 3 motors and transmissions replaced by Subaru all under warranty. An individual like that simply contributes to increased costs for the purcahse of a new vehicle and makes companies like and subaru less likely to manufacture performance vehicles. In his case I find his actions, unethical, dishonest and sneaky. When I think about what he did, it really makes me feel embarased for the tuner community. The sad reality is that there are many characters like this guy out there pulling these stunts and as a result I have seen many people with legitamate problems who were denied warranty coverage as the car companies are sick of stunts like this clown.

I also knew of a certain dealer who used to play games and put claims through warranty which were really crazy. No matter what you did they would cover it - e.g. a blown transfer case when a owner has a gt35 and a twin dick clutch, etc. At one point analized the warranty claim dollars vs the sales dollars at this dealership and as a result they were placed on a 90 day probation during which no warranty jobs could be performed without a factory rep's approval.

Think of the consequences of these abusive practices to the so called "high performance" car sales market.



I hope this sheds some light on the matter.

 

Props Al +1.
evovin: When you checked your compression, and found #4 low, did you pour a bit of oil in through the spark plug hole and re-check it? That would tell you if the compression was lost in the rings/cylinder walls or through the valves/valve guides. What does the #4 piston look like? For it to break a rod, my guess would be a problem in your valvetrain and maybe you hit the piston with a valve...It could have been a partially cracked piston, and a piece of it finally broke off, seized the cylinder and thus breaking the rod...